brush painting Awlgrip

[MikeP]

Jim, what slip did you end up in at Piney? I'll be there on Apr 20; I'll be glad to give you a hand if you are still there doing work.

As you know, KJ (F dock) did my nonskid two years ago and did a superb job. He'd be a good resource for techniques/advice. But I'm not sure if he will be back at the marina during the timeframe - I can't recall when he/Judy are coming back from FL.

 

[jim rosenthal]

I think it's going to be D-12 but she's going to tell me for certain once my boat goes in. Which shouldn't be too long. I was over at Smith's today and asked them to get it ready STAT and let me know when it's going in.

 

[Dan Mapes]

Along the lines of prep has anyone ever removed the bow rail stantions? Geeze they are held in by three screws each. What could go wrong?
Seriously, how well do the bolts holding things like cleats and stantions come out?

 

[Boatsb]

They are through bolted on many of the SF's with access above and outside the headliner but it takes 2 people to get the nuts off. Some of the MY have threaded bolts into plates under the glass.

 

[rsmith]

along the lines of prep has anyone ever removed the bow rail stantions? Geeze they are held in by three screws each. What could go wrong?
seriously, how well do the bolts holding things like cleats and stantions come out?

snap!!!!!

 

[jim rosenthal]

When I first removed them years ago I had a lot of trouble; the bolts used at the factory were bronze, and they had all wasted away from electrolysis. I had to drill out almost all of them.

After that I used SS bolts, and no problems. The rail and bases have been off since then, about 12-14 years ago for a paint job, and they came out without too many difficulties. This time, though, I am just going to tape all that off and paint around them.

 

[dsharp]

If you have compressed air for sanding and clean up the job may be doable. The problem with rolling/brushing is getting the primer on. By the time you sand the brush marks or roller stipple out you don't have much primer left. I just bought two quarts of awlgrip primer but I havn't had time to try it. The 545 primer doesn't roll out that well. I ended up stripping the non-skid. It was eating up sandpaper as fast as I could change it. The primer I just got was awlquip.

 

[bobk]

Agree, it is impossible to apply Algrip primer with out spraying. BUT, do you need to prime an already painted boat? When a pro did my trawler, he did not use primer and the job still looked perfect when I sold it six years later most of which was full time liveaboard/cruising.

Bob

 

[34Hatt]

I agree with rsmith on this one!!. I ended up taking a obrital sander and 60 grit to get my old non skid off!!! But I have to mention an observation that I saw this past summer! A couple of painters back in July was working on a hatt two slips down. . What caught my attention was, they were scubbing a fresh painted deck (10 days old) with a course brush and soft scrub. What had happend was the deck was painted with the wrong white shade of color. I just couldn't walk away without asking... Don't you need to sand the non skid off the deck and start over? Their reply was, this method had the same effect as using 400 grit sand paper. So after a day of scrubing, and two days later, they rolled a new shade of white to match. It's been 8 months and the boat will be returning from the Bahama's in a couple of weeks... So what say the painters?

Yes you can do that actually Sterling paint suggest using comet and a sponge or light scrub brush. I have done it to faded paint jobs must have been over 12 years ago paint still sticking.

 

[34Hatt]

Agree, it is impossible to apply Algrip primer with out spraying. BUT, do you need to prime an already painted boat? When a pro did my trawler, he did not use primer and the job still looked perfect when I sold it six years later most of which was full time liveaboard/cruising.

Bob

If the surface still is good and not beat to crap and oxidized badly you don't need to prime. Just read the application guides of any paint your going to use then when your done reading, do it again!

Really each time you will pick up on some more tips Awlgrip has a nice little book I think its $5 to $8 for it

 

[Boatsb]

Yes you can do that actually Sterling paint suggest using comet and a sponge or light scrub brush. I have done it to faded paint jobs must have been over 12 years ago paint still sticking.

Ive been told that from another manufacturer too and they also suggested a 3M pad or brass wire brush to prep the non skid to paint over. I believe the best part of that was the original non skid was used again and I did not have to add more grit.

Then again I tried the KIWIGRIP and had to say after a year and a half its pretty good and was so much easier. With the dog and the kids I expected it to be torn up but I am pleasantly surprised at how well it holds up.

 

[jim rosenthal]

There's no shine left on the nonskid part of my decks. It's all be scrubbed off long since. I am going to degrease it with Awlprep, re-scuff it with a Scotchbrite pad, and roll new AG and GripTex onto it. I think it will be fine. It's the shiny parts I am worried about. We'll see how it goes.

 

[Boatsb]

You need to do the shiny parts a bit different. I would suggest the shiny parts be done after the rest so you dont get the griptex on them.

 

[34Hatt]

You need to do the shiny parts a bit different. I would suggest the shiny parts be done after the rest so you dont get the griptex on them.

I always do the shine part first it is to hard to tape and get a good line against non skid.

As for Kiwi mine also is holding up very well that stuff is as hard as a rock. But I am sure Scott's family and FL sun is the true test!

 

[Boatsb]

I always do the shine part first it is to hard to tape and get a good line against non skid.

As for Kiwi mine also is holding up very well that stuff is as hard as a rock. But I am sure Scott's family and FL sun is the true test!

True with the tape but I never marred the nonskid the way I have the shiny. i do get the dropsys every now and again.

 

[SeaWhisper]

If you have compressed air for sanding and clean up the job may be doable. The problem with rolling/brushing is getting the primer on. By the time you sand the brush marks or roller stipple out you don't have much primer left. I just bought two quarts of awlgrip primer but I havn't had time to try it. The 545 primer doesn't roll out that well. I ended up stripping the non-skid. It was eating up sandpaper as fast as I could change it. The primer I just got was awlquip.

I have rolled a total of 3 gallons of Awlgrip 545 on the top side without any problems... Awlgrip recommends 2 coats prior to top coat paints. I used D8001 White base, D3001 Converter, T0031 Brush reducer.

The below is from Awlgrip

545 is a two component epoxy primer with outstanding corrosion and adhesion properties for steel, aluminum, wood, and fiberglass substrates. 545 is used to seal surfacing primers before applying topcoats. It may be applied by spray, brush, or roller and may be used above or below the waterline.

Application Instructions
Spray Application:
Apply smooth, wet coats to fill and cover surface profile. 2-3 coats may be needed at 7-10 mils (175-250 microns) WFT yielding 2-3
mils (50-75 microns) DFT.

Brush or Roller Application:
Apply 2 coats at 3-4 mils (75-100 microns) WFT yielding 1.0-1.5 mils (25-37 microns) DFT per coat. Allow 12-14 hours between coats.
Light sanding between coats will improve appearance. For large surfaces, rolling then tipping with a brush is preferred.
Do not apply paint materials to surfaces warmer than 105°F or colder than 55°F. Do noattempt to cure products at temperatures below
55°F.
Warning:
Do not apply paint materials to surfaces less than 3°C (5° F) above dew point, or to surfaces warmer than 41°C (105°

 

[jim rosenthal]

Thanks for all the help on this. I am starting to collect everything I'll need to do this. Turns out I have a lot of AG products sitting around- I must have anticipated this in the past

I spent the last few days getting Blue Note ready to move after she went back in the water- got everything put back up, and replaced some SS clamps for the seawater feed hose to the PSS system on the port side. If the weather cooperates, we will move her Thursday and after that over to the covered shed and I'll begin this project.

I expect to have plenty of help, in the form of dockside kibitzers who come by and tell me everything I'm doing wrong. Which, I suppose, will be plenty....

 

[Maynard Rupp]

Jim, you will need good light for sure. You might want to pull the boat outside for the actual painting, then pull it in for curing. All the pros down here in Miami do sand between coats. That is the main advantage of spraying. You can overcoat every 2 hours. Wet on wet gives the best bond, but is not to be done with roll and tip.

 

[34Hatt]

Jim, you will need good light for sure. You might want to pull the boat outside for the actual painting, then pull it in for curing. All the pros down here in Miami do sand between coats. That is the main advantage of spraying. You can overcoat every 2 hours. Wet on wet gives the best bond, but is not to be done with roll and tip.

The last thing you want to do is paint in direct sunlight!!!!!!

Just use these things called Flood light you can get them at Home Dumpo!

 

[jim rosenthal]

I do have instructions and some from USPaint. Apparently the brushing/rolling converter allows you to re-roll the second coat within sixteen hours, and it will still cross-link with the first coat. I hope so. And I am not going to paint it in the sun.

As a matter of fact I think I am going to tie up next to MikeP's Hatteras and sand away, hoping he'll wash both boats at the same time