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Bow Port Light Replacement

  • Thread starter Thread starter Sadey
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Sadey

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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
60' MOTOR YACHT (1987 - 1989)
Last year we isolated a water leak we had while underway to the bow port lights. Over the winter layup I attempted to pull out both port lights intact. That attempt was unsuccessful. Not a big deal because Sams sells them relative to other things boat, cheap ($300ish). The issue is Hatteras made a wood frame around the opening in the hull on the inside of the boat that sets the port light off the hull by an inch or two and has an angle at the top. I assume this is to have the port light angle down but have an even reveal on the outside of the hull. Because of the water leak all of that wood has rotted and needs to be replaced. I don’t have the tools, skill or time. As with most other things these days getting someone to do it is proving impossible. Of course I now have two holes in the hull that will hold up a summer launch. I might have a trailer park solution to the holes/launch issue but need a permanent Hatteras solution. Anybody deal with this successfully?
 

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Make this out of pvc , it won’t rot . Use 5200 to attach it to the hull .
 
I think you're looking at this backwards and the tapered shimming is actually to make the port more upright relative to the downward flare of the hull. It shouldn't be that hard to take some dimensions and get a piece made, but of you're desperate and just need to be in the water right now, caulk and screw a piece of plywood inside in place of the ports and it can be fixed up later in the water.
 
I second the PVC suggestion. Avenger, you are correct, The angle is on the top part of the port light and I believe it is to level the port light with the hull inside the boat.
 
I just replaced the port side portlight on my 58 LRC. I'm not sure of the purpose of the top angle, but in my boat it definitely makes the outside edge of the portlight face downwards.

Instead of PVC, I would recommend coosa board. It will never rot again.

Lightweight Fiberglass Composite Boards by Coosa Composites

You should be able to use a jig saw to cut the frames on whatever material you choose. If you don't feel confident or comfortable doing that, almost any boatyard or marina should have a marine carpenter that could cut it for you.

If you're looking for a temporary fix, I would use a polycarbonate plastic. This is the same material the portlight lens is made from.

You can pre-drill holes in it for attachment to the frame and use a gasket and 4200 to make a good seal.

However, be aware that the temporary fix should not only be watertight, but have structural integrity as well.

Best of luck!
 
Last edited:
Dave,
Your sistership (the one that was in Montague with the galley up) had the same issue, fwd stateroom, starboard side. In 2006, I caulked the ports on the outside between the lip and the trim ring. That solved the issue. Was the wood rotted? I don't know but they never had a problem again. I wish you would just call me when you find stuff like this. Maybe I could have saved you some work.
 
That actually was my first thought Sky, try and seal from the outside. However I didn’t want to go across Lake Michigan and find out that it didn’t work. I decided to try and fix it properly the first time instead of being frustrated with the same leak. So I’m fixing it properly the first time, as far as being frustrated well you can guess how that’s going. Stewardship of this vessel creeps into my brain far to damn often. That and anybody searching Benedetto on this forum in the future researching the purchase of her will hopefully feel better about her care and the price they are paying.
 
Yes, we are not owners. We are simply the caretakers of these vessels. They will likely outlive us.
 

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