Bilge Pumps and Float switches

[86Hat41]

Hello. Looking for commercial grade 12V Bilge Pumps and float switches. These Rule products are GARBAGE. I'm on my 2nd float switch in the same compartment within a few week period.
This is a charter boat that is out 7 days a week. Cost is not a factor. Quality is. These Rule products are made for Sea Rays and Bayliners.

 

[Pascal]

Their pumps are pretty good especially the manual non electronic larger models. the switches are crap. Best switches are the Ultra switches. 3 times the price but worth it.

 

[rustybucket]

I second the ultra float switches. It seemed like every time I turned around I was changing or re-changing a float switch or bilge pump. Since i changed everything over to the ultra or the ultra junior (knock on wood) I have not had a single bilge pump or float switch failure and that's been over a year ago.

They are expensive, but totally worth it. I know I spent more on burned out 32v bilge pumps and what a pita to replace or work on a bilge pump or float switch. Bite the bullet, do it, you will NOT regret it.

 

[Cricket]

Third on the Ultra switches, replaced all 6 pumps and switches in 2001 when converting from 32v to 24 volt, no failures yet.
My CC has 4 of them that are only 17 years old with no failures........

Hard to imagine how much $$$$$$ are wasted on the Rule float switches every year, and how many boats sink a year because of them.

 

[racclarkson@gmail.com]

And I'm not disputing anything anyone has said. I've owned Aslan for 5-1/2 years, and I've replaced two Rule float switches in two locations. I've not replaced any of my 32V Rule bilge pumps for failure. There's no telling how old they might be, but they all work. I can't explain my good fortune with the floats other than to note dry bilges are a priority with me; fewer cycles can't be bad. I'm also thinking I'm not digging any deeper on the subject until 2021.

 

[Jammin']

I've replaced 4 of my 5 float switches with Ultra switches. What I like about the old switches is that you can just pull the float up to test power to and functionality of the pump.

 

[Briankinley2004]

Ultra is the only way to go. Make sure you get the right voltage switch. I had a 32volt one and it didnt work on a 12 volt boat. I didnt remember they had different voltage. I felt sort of dumb after a call to their owner for warranty. You will be limited on your selection of brand for 32volt bilge pumps or anything for that matter.

 

[jim rosenthal]

Johnson pumps seem pretty good, so far. Also fit on a Rule base...

 

[dsharp]

The Rule switches used to have mercury in them and were just about bullet proof. When I was asked to replace a non working pump it was usually the crimp connectors that were the cause of a failure to operate. I haven’t opened one of the new switches to see how they work but, they aren’t near a durable as the old switches. I bought an ultra Jr. And got about a year out of it.

 

[wpc691]

Had a Rule switch fail closed and flatten the batteries on my bay boat; now use only Ultras, never a problem. I use Rule Gold pumps. Don’t really know if they’re worth the extra few bucks, but I’ve never had one fail.

 

[Briankinley2004]

The Rule switches used to have mercury in them and were just about bullet proof. When I was asked to replace a non working pump it was usually the crimp connectors that were the cause of a failure to operate. I haven’t opened one of the new switches to see how they work but, they aren’t near a durable as the old switches. I bought an ultra Jr. And got about a year out of it.

If you used the Ultra connectors that come with the pump and send them back in still connected they will replace the switch under warranty if there are no issues with the crimp. I think they warrant them for life if you stick with the crimps that come on the switch. Also if there is fuel or oil in the water the ultras will not act right.

 

[dsharp]

Thanks. That’s good to know. I did wash the engines down with super clean to get it ready to paint. That may have messed up the float switch

 

[Avenger]

I got tired of replacing Rule switches several years ago and needed a stopgap so I stuck a Johnson Pumps float switch in it's place. No mercury, no microswitches, just a ball rolling around in the thing. Haven't had a single issue with it yet.

Eventually it's getting replaced with an Ultra because I want the high water alarm feature on the main pump, but the JP switch will get moved to the aft pump and stay there as long as it keeps working. So far, so good.

 

[86Hat41]

Just ordered the ultra Junior. Hopefully this lasts. I have Detroits that literally run 10 hours straight a day. Pretty much impossible to keep oil out of the water. Hopefully the Ultras are better than the rules. Actually, anything is better than a rule switch so I will pretty much try anything at this point. Ordered it on Amazon, should have it within a couple of days and will be installing imediately.

 

[jim rosenthal]

If you put those white or gray diapers under the engines it will help some, catching the oil. Won't get every trace of it, but it will help.

I thought the Ultra switches were just about how high the float went up. I didn't know they were affected by oil or fuel in teh water.

 

[Briankinley2004]

I have had a couple of occasions when the ultra didn't do right. Once was on a 60 Hat that had a busted steering line. Once we got the fluid out and cleaned the switch it worked fine again. If I remember right the pump ran non stop. FWIW I also have one of those square Rule ones that is enclosed in my ER sump. It sometimes hangs up when I wash things down and the water is slick.