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Best Cleaner/Wax For Imron

  • Thread starter Thread starter Sparky1
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Finesse it is a polish. To make it last and not be washed off , you must wax it.
We have been using it in autobody shops forever, but we always follow up the finesse it with a good quality wax.
 
I asked this same question to the local boat detail'er who is known for his polish jobs. He said use Finesse It II compound then "his secret polymer sealant" (his crews don't even know what the stuff is - but it looks great). He also said to use a waffle pad on an orbiter at low speed. The waffle pad reduces streaks better than a regular pad.
 
Sparky1 said:
Got a question for you stormy, when was the last time you saw somebody waxing their boat in temps lower than 50 degrees?

Thanks for the input guys, did I mention I'm having a boat polishing party on June 27?
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I missed a 0...the activation temp for teflon is slightly higher than 500*F! Sorry. In other words...the teflon won't actually stick to the paint...it just gets removed when you buff. It literally adds nothing...same deal with PTFE based oil additives...pure snake oil.
 
I have a 1987 55 and its original Imron paint job that I used Finesse it II on and then sealed with Rejex like synthetic "wax". My experience was that I could get a good shine but it was a lot of work. I had to use the synthetic wax to get depth and since I keep the boat near the airport would get black streaks occuring within two weeks and I was back at it again. Bottom line is I gave up and painted her with Awlgrip because it was so much work. My paint job was probably a bit more weathered than most. I had a paint specialist look at it and he said she was porous.

TG
 
You could clear coat the Imron.
 
edward said:
You could clear coat the Imron.
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I'll probably have it painted from the rub rail up in the next couple years. IMO there are too many aged and beat-up areas to cover with clear.
That said, I've looked at so many boats with the clear coat peeling. I really liked a 48 Ricker before I found this Hatteras, but it was peeling clear coat everywhere. It was such a deal breaker, he sold that beauty for $30k. I'd be worried whomever I hire spray the clear wouldn't do sufficient prep.
 
Yes the prep is about 95% of the process.
 
JuiceClark said:
This was a good ol' thread.
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Yep, ole' two-stroke Sparky could come up with a good one now and then.:D

Was surprised to see such an old thread get bumped. Just out of curiosity why not just start a new one? That's not criticism or a complaint, just wondering.

Speaking of wondering, it seems ceramic coating is all the rage these days, but I haven't heard of anyone using it on Imron or similar finishes. Based on what people are paying for ceramic coating on cars and motorhomes, I can only imagine what it would cost to have it done on a 50'+ Hatt.
 
JuiceClark said:
This was a good ol' thread.

My Imron has been neglected for years. I've given it about 10 brisk washes since buying it 10 months ago, but now it's time for a little shine.

Is this the stuff I should buff it with?? Or do I use the Finesse It II?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1150050378...K+E+UvzipVFSU=|clp:2334524|tkp:Bk9SR_r_p53RXw
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My 36 hadn't been waxed in at least 5 years when I bought it. I used the Finesse It II and then the 3M Perfect It boat wax, and the results were pretty damn incredible. It was almost fun to cut and wax it, because the result was such a huge difference and the luster was like new paint. Even the blue boot stripe went from being dull to a like mirror finish.

Myself and a friend, two Dewalt Rotary polishers and we finished the hull in a days time. This year we're going to do it again, and expecting it to be much faster as 85% of the work was cutting years of whatever was built up on the surface.

Couple Tiaras gave me a run for my money, but I think she was the prettiest boat in the harbor after the polish. IMG_0853.webpIMG_0858.webpIMG_0859.webp
 
Orbital polishers are a joke for this type of project tou need a lambs wool bonnet.
 
Remember, our Hatteras boats are *PAINTED* so polishing tricks for gel coat are not completely applicable.

That said, I have saved this pro article from 2009 because it is so comprehensive:
https://www.sailnet.com/threads/tips-for-compound-polish-wax.52772/

A few of us have 'glass boats as well, and some of the tips are relevant for polishing high-quality two part paints.

DAN
 
Freeebird said:
Yep, ole' two-stroke Sparky could come up with a good one now and then.:D

Was surprised to see such an old thread get bumped. Just out of curiosity why not just start a new one? That's not criticism or a complaint, just wondering.

Speaking of wondering, it seems ceramic coating is all the rage these days, but I haven't heard of anyone using it on Imron or similar finishes. Based on what people are paying for ceramic coating on cars and motorhomes, I can only imagine what it would cost to have it done on a 50'+ Hatt.
Click to expand...

Well, I like to bump an ol' thread so everyone knows what I'mma talking about. Seems like using Finesse-It or Finesse It II is the favorite.

But yeah, I put that ceramic stuff on my truck and it looks great...and held-up for a long time. You'd think there'd be a marine version that suits a Hatteras?
 
RyanB said:
My 36 hadn't been waxed in at least 5 years when I bought it. I used the Finesse It II and then the 3M Perfect It boat wax, and the results were pretty damn incredible. It was almost fun to cut and wax it, because the result was such a huge difference and the luster was like new paint. Even the blue boot stripe went from being dull to a like mirror finish.

Myself and a friend, two Dewalt Rotary polishers and we finished the hull in a days time. This year we're going to do it again, and expecting it to be much faster as 85% of the work was cutting years of whatever was built up on the surface.

Couple Tiaras gave me a run for my money, but I think she was the prettiest boat in the harbor after the polish. View attachment 56278View attachment 56279View attachment 56280
Click to expand...

Now THAT is what I'm talkin' about. I figured I'd do the bridge and the cockpit one Saturday. If it's not too bad, I'll consider doing the hull....but will probably hire that out like a wimp.
 
Ryan, I've been in your marina. Those two Tiaras will never be as pretty as your Hatteras, even if you hadn't buffed and waxed.

Walt Hoover
 
A few years ago, I was at Slane Marine's shop and saw a 60s Hatteras with original Imron on it (granted, Imron's formula back then was probably better than what they make now) Boat looked dingy and dull- but they had buffed and waxed a part of the hull, about two sq feet, to see if it would come back up.

It was amazing. That paint was probably forty years old and it looked clear and bright, felt glass smooth.

BTW, Rejex is mentioned earlier in this thread. Has anyone had much experience with it? It's supposed to be very durable, but I have not used it personally.
 
JuiceClark said:
Is Perfect It the new version of Finesse-It?

3 steps? Aw hell, I'll hire out the entire job.

View attachment 56299
Click to expand...

Finesse-it is more geared to taking swirl marks out of clear cote. It doesn’t really cut the oxidation. The imron most Hatts left the factory with is an acrylic polyurethane enamel. Like gel cote it can be wet sanded and buffed right down through the thickness of the paint. A painter can screw up and have runs which can be block sanded and polished out and you’d never know. Awlgrip on the other hand you can not. Once you break through the surface it will never come back.
 
BTW said:
I've been using Rejex on the original Imron paint of hull for past 10 years on recommendation from this site - Love that stuff. You get more then 1 full year out of single application. I do entire hull by hand - you don't need a machine to put on or take off. For scuffed areas I use Finesse-It first, our Mr Clean Magic Eraser sponge, depending what scuff is, before applying. The top decks of my boat are painted with AwlGrip - I find Rejex to be very similar to AwlCare product I use on that in way it goes on and comes off. I find Reject lasts longer then AwlCare.
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