Battery combiner/isolator

[MikeP]

I want to isolate 3 12v batteries charged by the same alternator. One for starting only and the other two for electronics. Anyone familiar with this company/brand or recommend a different model/method?

http://www.hellroaring.com/bic75150.php

 

[Genesis]

No no no no no

Yandina.

12 and 24 volt models available.

http://www.yandina.com/

Near-zero parasitic draw, zero resistance when "on" (it uses a RELAY to close the circuit.)

I've used these in all my boats now for several years (Gigabite had one) and they just plain work.

 

[krush]

Diode isolators are junk. Like gen said, go with "relay type".

 

[bobk]

I can heartily second Karl's advice. We put a 150 amp yandina combiner between the starting 8D and an inverter bank of 6 golfcart batteries, and it works as advertised.

Bob

 

[MikeP]

Thanks Karl, I'll go with the Yadina. It's cheaper too!!

 

[Trojan]

RELAYS? I wouldn't have a model A Ford relay on my boat in any kind of charging circuit. The proper size diodes will last forever. RELAYS ANTQUECS...Old world science. Nobody uses relays any more.

BILL

 

[MikeP]

"Near-zero parasitic draw, zero resistance when "on" (it uses a RELAY to close the circuit.)"

"RELAYS? I wouldn't have a model A Ford relay on my boat in any kind of charging circuit"



Life is just too darn confusing!

 

[Genesis]

Naw.

Diodes are not the right tool for this job due to the voltage drop. That's all.

I'm a solid-state kind of guy, but in the right application. This isn't it.

Yandina's stuff just plain works. BTW, on my small boat I have THREE of their little ones on a 4-battery system (two for each engine); its basically impossible for me to get caught out without power, which is the whole idea, right?

 

[Angela]

I'm completely lost on this thread. Usually, when I don't quite get it, I just move on, but my curiosity is nudging me to ask.

(A) Why do you want to isolate 12v batteries?; and (B) Why do you have 12v batteries on a 32v boat? Is it for a separate inverter bank? I know from experience that hooking up 3 12v batteries on a 32v system doesn't add up - PO did that on my boat and killed off the batteries quickly since they could never fully charge.

Battery stuff is on my mind since I need a more intelligent charger (my original charger cooks my batteries), and I want an inverter. So, I kept reading this thread, and as a result, the more I read, the more lost I am.

Can someone educate me?

 

[MikeP]

Ang,

When the PO installed a new 16KW NL genny which had a 12v starter, he decided to also add a 12v "system" to the boat for future electronic or whatever use. The problem is that there is no separation of the starter batt and the "house" batt on the 12v system and the only charging for the 12v system is via the genny's alternator or a separate 12v batt charger operated by shore power.

Therefore it is possible, though I have never done it, to run down the 12v batteries for "house" loads (though there are hardly any) and make it impossible to start the genny. If this occurred while on the hook, there would be no way to charge those batts until the boat was on shore power again.

Again, it hasn't been a problem at all but I don't like the concept that the batt bank is both house and start so I want to be able to separate the functions to avoid any potential problem.

 

[DCMY #92]

I'm using a Xantrex isolator to charge the port and starboard engine 8Ds from one alternator. So far (about 6 months) it has worked as advertised. It contains a relay so there is no voltage drop when closed. It has changeable settings for high voltage, low voltage and automatic closure. It won't close if the battery voltages are too far apart. It also has the facility to install a remote LED indicator to show its position and a remote switch for 'auto', 'manual closed" and 'manual open'.

When you price your preferred setup, be sure to understand what additional items are required by code (battery disconnects, circuit breakers, battery cables and battery cable shields) when installing the isolator and include these costs when you make your choice. These extras will likely cost more than the battery isolator no mater which one you choose. Many of our older Hats don't meet current codes for such things, but I would consider carefully the risks of not complying with the latest codes when making an alteration to these high current systems.

 

[MikeP]

"I'm a solid-state kind of guy, but in the right application. This isn't it."

Yep, I totally agree. Hey, some folks refuse to admit that tubes still do music better!

 

[Bill Allen]

I run a yadinas between my start (house ) batterys and my inverter bank. Engine running altenator runs the refrig, all important ice maker tv and keeps everything fully charged. Save genset time and is a brainless combo for those senior moments I seem to have, occansionally .

 

[GaryNW]

Might want to check out blue sea systems ACR's. I installed a basic model 7600 to my vintage sentry battery charger to eliminate the unsensed output to the 2nd bank. The 7600 is only good for 60amps but they have larger ones. Blue seas makes good stuff and pricing is reasonable (I think I paid 60 for the 7600.)
Gary

 

[krush]

When you price your preferred setup, be sure to understand what additional items are required by code (battery disconnects, circuit breakers, battery cables and battery cable shields) when installing the isolator and include these costs when you make your choice.

The day I care about the "code enforcer" on my boat is the day I quit boating. I just dealt with building inspectors for a year....I will never pull a permit again unless absolutely neccesarry.

Ever have a building inspector say he can ignore a PE stamp? I have.

 

[DCMY #92]

I'm no fan of complying with updated codes for just for the sake of it, but when dealing batteries and large cables capable of burning your boat down in a flash (no pun intended) many of the current requirements make allot of sense.