another maintenance project

[Boatsb]

If the shafts out the bearings should be easy. The tools should press it out easily but heat will also heat the bearings. It may break the bond between the strut and bearings but it's not a good way to expand it much.

We often have to run a hacksaw inside the bearing and cut the shell. Then press it out.

 

[rsmith]

Every time I've replaced bearings it required the sawzall and a long blade with lots of finesse. The first thirty years I never touched the bearings. Then all of a sudden I started eating a set every year. The shaft bearing areas had some scoring but I was polishing them up with Emory. I talked to one of the bearing co reps at the Lauderdale show who told me it was critical that the water passages cast in the rubber were unobstructed. The shafts should never touch the rubber bearing just like oil in the engine. the shafts ride on a thin film of water. Only for a fraction of a second at the beginning get of rotation should they sit on the bearing. He was telling me that a lot of bearing failures are due to yards that glom paint into the leading area of the strut and cut off water to the bearings. My problem was the shafts were so worn that the water film was too great and wouldn't keep the shaft centered. The problem was solved for me when i cracked a muff coupling and bit the bullet replacing both shafts with one piece shafts. 14 years now and thousands of hours and the bearings are still good

 

[jim rosenthal]

An update to this thread: everything is back together and she is going in the water within the next few days (there is a boat blocking me waiting for her wheels to be put back on, so nothing happens until they launch her; she is too big for the lift to get around)

The props were checked electronically and found to be fine. The shafts did require straightening, but I don't know how far out they were- unbelievably, they would not tell me. That is something I would have liked to know. Next time the shafts need worked on, they will go to another shop.

The cutlass bearings are all new- the yard installed them. The ones in the struts are held in with setscrews; the ones in the stern tubes have a combination of adhesive and setscrews.

We realigned the engines after everything was back together, before tightening up the coupling bolts. I will run the boat for a while and then check the alignment again. Interestingly, starboard engine needed to come up about 3mm, which seems like a lot. Port was almost right on the money when it all went back together.

My friend who did this (really I handed in tools and did some of the easy parts) used to have an identical boat to mine. He went through several changes of engines in his 36C, and commented that from on the hard to in the water, the hull shape actually changed very little and generally the boat did not require realignment once it had been floating for a while, but we won't take any chances.

We also fitted a hose clamp to each shaft, next to the rotor. The Jesus clamp, as he termed it.

The PSS kits have changed a bit. The rubber bellows is more robust and springier than the old one, which is interesting since the first ones lasted about twice their designed life. As far as I can determine, everything else in the kit is about the same. The kits come with new o-rings, new setscrews, new hose clamps. It is difficult to compress the bellows to the required 1"- you have to use a small pry bar and put some mojo on it.

The shafts turn fairly easily with one hand. They certainly don't spin, but they didn't before. When sprayed with soapy water, they turn more easily yet. I suspect there is a break-in period to seat the shafts into the new cutlass bearings.

Report to follow once she's launched and I've run her a bit.

I did not add the crossover line. PSS recommends that you do that if the vessel will run better than 12-14 knots on one engine. Well, so far my Cummins engines have been very reliable, but if one quits, I will limp home at idle speed, I think.

 

[johnjen50]

Jim, I'm surprised you aligned the engine while the boat was on the hard. Aftertime on the hard the boat takes a "set" and I've never heard of someone aligning it during that time as the fiberglass flexes differently depending on how its blocked up. When back in the water the fiberglass relaxes to it natural shape, an that may throw off the alignment. I've always been told to wait a few days after splashing the boat before alignment. I did see a boat being checked for strut alignment one time on the hard, but there was a complicated set of wires set up on the boat while it was in the water to check for true when it came out so they could block it so it sat the same way it sat in the water. Curious what your guy said about all that.

 

[johnjen50]

Jim, sorry, just reread the thread and see you've addressed that issue. Thanks for the great post.

 

[34Hatt]

I have aligned my motors and checked after splash no change a Hatt doesn't change shape

If you lose a engine max is about 8-9 kts without loading down your one motor so yes crossover tube is not needed and I didn't add one for that reason. I wonder if the more springy bellows will wear the graphite more?
My are on the short list 10 year this season.

 

[q240z]

I'm curious about that full length bearing in the stern tube. How long was that? The wooden and FRP Chris Crafts I've had all used bronze tubes that were at least a couple of feet long, and I don't recall seeing a cutlass bearing in them. The stern tubes on my Roamer are about 5' long. I decided to put bearings in, but originally they didn't have them.

 

[Avenger]

I have aligned my motors and checked after splash no change a Hatt doesn't change shape

Horse hockey. Depending how it's blocked they change shape quite a bit. Last time out I pulled couplers and they dropped almost an inch. Had to use a lot of pressure to put them back on. In the water they were fine. Also had to shorten a rub rail where it butted against the next section. Fit fine on land. Not in the water.

 

[Boatsb]

When I repowered a 42 I had it blocked in 4 places on the keel. 1 stand aft and 5 stands each side.

Even with that being very stable I had a few turns on the motor mounts after 3 days in the water when things settled in.

 

[jim rosenthal]

I will recheck it. I think we are close, and I can run the boat, but we will still check it again after she's been in the water for a couple of weeks, and after the new bearings are run in a bit. Actually if I wasn't working this entire weekend, I would run her home and then recheck it, but I have to be at work the whole weekend, which precludes it.

I'll post my results, but bottom line (no pun) is that if the drivetrains are lined up on land, they should be rechecked after she's been in the water a while. The real question is how long does my boat need to be in the water before checking them again?

 

[Boatsb]

Depends on the water temp, Number of people looking at it with laser like vision and of course the opinions of those who know nothing need to be factored in.

Reality is a few hours to a few days. It wont take long to settle her back in.

 

[Cricket]

Couple of things, if it was me I would add the crossover line for the shaft seals. It's too easy of a project to prevent a meltdown. Learned from experience. Also, a hose clamp on the shaft is nothing more than a high speed snag that could really injure somebody or cause damage if something were to fall and get pulled. A 2 piece stop collar is much safer and will do a better job if something actually were to happen.

 

[jim rosenthal]

Post a photo and source for that piece of hardware, and I'll look for them.

 

[Cricket]

http://www.mcmaster.com/#stop-collars/=11t2hli

 

[jim rosenthal]

thanks! they even come in 316. I am going to get these. I didn't know they existed.

 

[34Hatt]

Horse hockey. Depending how it's blocked they change shape quite a bit. Last time out I pulled couplers and they dropped almost an inch. Had to use a lot of pressure to put them back on. In the water they were fine. Also had to shorten a rub rail where it butted against the next section. Fit fine on land. Not in the water.

Well my shafts don't change my transom door is the same in water out of water and any temp all year round! 15 years now Never saw any change at all! One inch shit I have seen wood boat change less than that.
Guess you got a Friday afternoon build

 

[jim rosenthal]

Finished (I think) the engine room work for now, with a new shaft brush fitted to port. Only had to buy two, break the first one putting it in, and finally get the second one fitted. Live and learn. Test started engines today as well.

We are getting a spell of rotten weather, more like March than April here. With luck, I can get her home this week- I need a weather window, a ride along, and to be off work on the right day. Then all I have to do is get the topsides cleaned up and we'll be ready for the season.