Anchor chain jammed around windlass gypsy

[Triskele]

I know this sounds stupid (and it is), but my anchor chain became bound and tangled around my windlass gypsy while bringing up my anchor today. The anchor is now jammed against the bow pulpit and the chain is too tight to unwind and free. Short of getting a hacksaw and cutting the chain, is there a way to reverse my windlass direction. Here's the catch. I believe my windlass is non-reversing. Mine is a Galley Maid and I believe the model number is something like 33-12. It is original equipment on a 1981 43 DCMY. Although it does not have reversing controls, is there a way to change the wiring so that I can temporarily reverse directions and free the chain?

 

[PeterK]

Don't ask how I know how to do this...
Secure the anchor with a line so it won't drop into the drink. Undo your shackle and unwind from the chain from the anchor side. If the tension is too great to undo the shackle, a long pipe over a wrench will do wonders...as Archimedes said: "give me a lever long enough and I can move the earth."

 

[Triskele]

Ha! Excellent! Thanks Peter! Your method occurred to me, but the tension on the shackle bolt was so tight, I was a little afraid to attempt this first. Kind of thinking it might be a last resort, or at least last resort before pulling out the hacksaw. However, knowing someone else has applied this method with success has given me the confidence to go forward and give it a try. Will take a stab at it first thing tomorrow morning and let you know how it goes. And yes...your secret is safe with me. Thanks again for the suggestion and quick response. Amazing. I love this forum!

 

[MikeP]

Can't you just release the clutch on the gypsy? That will remove all the pressure on the chain/anchor.

 

[bobk]

Can't you just release the clutch on the gypsy? That will remove all the pressure on the chain/anchor.

X2. That's the big nut on top of the gypsy. It provides the free fall, so it should let it go.

Bobk

 

[Artzco]

X2. That's the big nut on top of the gypsy. It provides the free fall, so it should let it go.

Bobk

My Galley Maid jammed and I just released the clutch and all tension was gone. Very simple.

 

[Triskele]

Unjammed my windlass chain today. Talked to Galley Maid this morning. Recommended reversing the wiring on the electric motor terminals. When I did this, it reversed the rotation of the windlass and chain came free. Problem solved. Thank you all for your input and suggestions. It's nice to know there is more than one way to skin a cat. I am not sure where the clutch is located on my windlass or how to release it. If you have any additional information on how to release the clutch, I would be interested in learning. At first, I was rather nervous about my mistake because the windlass stopped running and I thought that perhaps I burnt out the motor. Turns out there is a breaker and it popped. Learned something new.

 

[Triskele]

Just reread threads and Artzcos comment about turning the "big nut" on top of the gypsy. Is that how the clutch is released?

 

[dcate]

Just reread threads and Artzcos comment about turning the "big nut" on top of the gypsy. Is that how the clutch is released?

Yes.

The clutch is nothing exotic. It's just two circular pieces of clutch material that are sandwiched flat between the chain wheel, and rope drum. (If you look between the two...you can see them. (It's the very thin, narrow strip of "something" sitting between the two). The large nut adjusts the pressure holding all of this tight. When you loosen the nut the loss of pressure allows the chain gypsy to spin independently of the shaft. The anchor will then fall into the water of it's own weight with the chain wheel spinning. I believe the idea is that loosening/tightening this nut adjusts the stress that can be applied to the chain gypsy so that it will slip...allowing it to take the stress of the pull of the anchor/boat rather than forcing the gearing in the gear box to absorb it.

Someone else may correct any inaccuracies or be better able to explain it.

Here's a picture of mine .... fresh rebuild and all!

 

[MikeP]

You release the clutch to lay out the anchor rode. There is no reason to power it out and that's especially not recommended on Galley Maid Windlasses since they don't have the internal thrust bearing that an Ideal windlass does for that purpose. So the NORMAL expected use of the windlass is to release the clutch to lay out the rode and use the power to bring it back, That's probably why you don't have a "reverse" button/switch for your GM windlass

The fact that someone at GM told you to reverse the wiring as opposed to simply releasing the clutch to do what you needed to do does not give me a very good impression of GM!

FWIW, I have found that after the anchor is back aboard and secured in place with a separate line or a chain stopper, it's best to then release the clutch. This prevents the plates from sticking together, which they will if you leave the clutch nut tight. Sometimes the sticking plates can be rather difficult to separate.

 

[magnawake]

I dont want to HI-jack this thread, but how do yall lower your anchor? Ususally I'm in 7-15ft of water and just step on the down button. I let the wind blow me back and can tell the anchor is on the bottom by seeing the chain start its angle away from the bow. Thats when we set the anchor alarm. Well my wife actually sets it from the bridge. Im on the pulpit stepping on the switch. Often, when the wind is blowing hard I wish I could drop the anchor faster. So I could loosen the big nut and drop it faster, then tighten it and release it slower for the rest of the 75 ft on chain used. So what technique do you use? Just step on the switch or use the nut?

 

[dcate]

I'd read on here for years that the GM was not designed for lowering. But...it worked for me for years so I didn't care. Then I had an internal gear strip and that necessitated a rebuild. I told the guy at GM that, imo, that was a design flaw (I still think it is, fwiw). And he basically told me the same thing MikeP pointed out. I still don't understand the exact mechanics of it all...but now...with the new unit installed...I always let the anchor out by loosening the nut.

Turning the boat into the wind....I just loosen the nut and let the achor free fall to the bottom. Then use let the wind push the boat back until the desired amount of chain is fed out....or sometimes....maybe in no wind conditions....bump the boat into reverse until the desired amount of chain it let out. Then retighten the nut.

I think it may actually be even a little bit faster to do it this way and don't mind it so much. But when it's raining....not so much.

 

[bobk]

Pate,

As has been said here before, you should not power down the anchor. By doing so, something is rubbing and wearing inside and will ruin the components. In my case, it became erratic and unreliable. Galley Maid has a technician named Rick (561-262-8104 cell) who will come to the boat, remove the winch and install a 'down' thrust bearing. He commutes past Ft Pierce so will be happy to do it. In Dec 2012, the bill was $391 and included an oil change, new seals and painting the housing and reinstallation.

You should be releasing the clutch and letting the anchor free fall. That will get the anchor down fast enough to avoid drifting away from your chosen location.

My practice is to anchor from the bridge (I have winch controls at the helm). As I approach, I lower the anchor until it is just off the water surface. When I'm close to where I want to be, I lower it to just touch the bottom while still controlling the position of the boat. Once it touches, I keep paying out chain while allowing the wind or current to carry the boat. I use a Super Max and test the set at 2 or 3 to one scope, then let out what I need for the night and put the snubber or bridle on and really haul back on the anchor to insure a good deep set.

Bobk

 

[MikeP]

IMO, it is easer to get a good anchor set by letting the anchor rode "free wheel" by releasing the clutch, letting the rode play out as the boat drifts back. Then, tighten the clutch when you get to the rode length you want. MOST of the time the anchor digs right in and sets with no further work. That of course will vary depending on the anchor type/bottom type but that's the way it works for us in the Ches bay/Fortress FX55.

 

[magnawake]

Pate,

As has been said here before, you should not power down the anchor. By doing so, something is rubbing and wearing inside and will ruin the components. In my case, it became erratic and unreliable. Galley Maid has a technician named Rick (561-262-8104 cell) who will come to the boat, remove the winch and install a 'down' thrust bearing. He commutes past Ft Pierce so will be happy to do it. In Dec 2012, the bill was $391 and included an oil change, new seals and painting the housing and reinstallation.

You should be releasing the clutch and letting the anchor free fall. That will get the anchor down fast enough to avoid drifting away from your chosen location.

My practice is to anchor from the bridge (I have winch controls at the helm). As I approach, I lower the anchor until it is just off the water surface. When I'm close to where I want to be, I lower it to just touch the bottom while still controlling the position of the boat. Once it touches, I keep paying out chain while allowing the wind or current to carry the boat. I use a Super Max and test the set at 2 or 3 to one scope, then let out what I need for the night and put the snubber or bridle on and really haul back on the anchor to insure a good deep set.

Bobk

DANG IT !!!!! I've been doing it wrong the whole time. I'm surprised it hasnt broke yet. We anchor out as much as possible. That sounds like a good deal to have some maintenance done before ti breaks. Also start using it the correct way. I usually have a 7:1 (windy 10:1) ratio with a bridle. Havent drug one single time, knocking on wood.

 

[season]

Sorry for the "newbie" question but are you folks saying that the bridge controls have a clutch release or it can only be released by someone at the pulpit. If the latter you need a wrench to lower the anchor on the galley maid?

 

[magnawake]

Sorry for the "newbie" question but are you folks saying that the bridge controls have a clutch release or it can only be released by someone at the pulpit. If the latter you need a wrench to lower the anchor on the galley maid?

That is a correct assumption. I have a wrench, but I thought it was to be used in case you lost power and windlass couldnt lift the anchor. I ahve been on this forum talking about ervything under the sun but this topic never seemed to have come up. It just proves that "there are no dumb questions". I keep learning all the time.

 

[bobk]

Sorry for the "newbie" question but are you folks saying that the bridge controls have a clutch release or it can only be released by someone at the pulpit. If the latter you need a wrench to lower the anchor on the galley maid?

The bridge controls power the anchor up or down. You need to loosen the big nut on top of the GM to free the clutch. Also, be careful not to tighten it too much or you can pull the shaft up.

Bobk