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Amazing things

  • Thread starter Thread starter mykim
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mykim

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Jan 11, 2014
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166
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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
55' CONV -Series I (1979 - 1988)
Just finished the rewire of my bridge. All new gauges and 90% of the wiring either replaced or repaired Ta-Da!!!!!! It amazes me how as boats pass down thru owners the butcher jobs that pass for proper repairs. Over the last couple of years the number of uncapped and unmarked wires that were still hot has amazed me. I've gone over this boat stem to stern either rewiring or rendering proper repairs to many a wire. I don't like wire connectors and prefer solder, then placing a double layer of heat shrink. Very time consuming but I'm retired and have tons of time.

So, if I can ever get her sold someone will not have to worry about the electrical.
 
It's just as easy to do it the right way the first time. You're showing pride of ownership congratulations, that's the way it should be done.
 
It amazes me how as boats pass down thru owners the butcher jobs that pass for proper repairs. Over the last couple of years the number of uncapped and unmarked wires that were still hot has amazed me.

Ditto on all. Don't grab a wire unless you ready to dance! I prefer the solder and double heat shrink too.

When I bought Aslan, the autopilot was intermittent because the compass wouldn't hold a heading; some days it would, most days not. Autohelm wires left the compass and Autohelm wires ended at the control head. But somewhere, someone scabbed onto an abandoned line. You know the drill: Red is really blue, yellow becomes brown with white stripe.... and then reverse the code downstairs. Might've worked except for spotty and non-sealed connectors. Really no rhyme or reason; the units come with enough line to make it without a patch.

A well known Florida electronics firm spent two days and never found it. My new favorite guy in Charleston found it in 15 minutes. He snapped a pic to put up on his connections wall of shame. I've now put the Trump wiring policy into effect on Aslan: For every new cable pulled, two abandoned ones must go--Thank you, Donald.
 
Solder no good in modern world. Creates weak spots they say. Plus, too much effort.

Good sealed crimps work great. I think a good way that doesn't bust the bank is to use un-insulated crimp terminals, fill them with NOALOX, insert wire and crimp, and then cover the entire thing with adhesive heat shrink.
 
Solder no good in modern world. Creates weak spots they say. Plus, too much effort.Good sealed crimps work great. I think a good way that doesn't bust the bank is to use un-insulated crimp terminals, fill them with NOALOX, insert wire and crimp, and then cover the entire thing with adhesive heat shrink.
Too much effort.
 
I use 3m glue lined crimps and a moped ratchet crimp tool designed for them.

It's important to crimp completely but not crush the outer shrink and leave a hole.

Molex also has their version called perm a deal.

Yes their expensive. Yes they work. And if bought in quantity it's not too bad.

Solder creates a hard area that can break with movement. And it takes forever in comparison to crimping
 
Molex tool. Spell check sucks
 

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