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Alkyld paint over epoxy??

power convert

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Will alkyld paint adhere to epoxy? Is the amine blush the only thing to worry about removing?
 
It's been my experience that alkyd enamel sticks fine to properly prepared epoxy, but a technically better approach (I've never done a side-by-side comparison) is to prime the epoxy then paint over the properly prepared primer.
 
As noted, one part should stick fine to two part.....The special primer is required when you are covering one part with two part.....

Be sure to follow manufacturer's instructions on the product you are using....
 
the solvents in the one component alkyd (which means synthetic oils as opposed to natural oil like linseed/flax oil) will not bite into the epoxy. wash the amine blush away FIRST, then scratch up the surface everywhere and very well with 80 grit minimum. the bond will be mechanical as opposed to chemical so you need that 'tooth'.
 
For some reason you can "hot coat" varnish over epoxy but paint does not work so well. I have painted varnish over dry but but still soft epoxy with good results, but paint over soft epoxy will be very slow to dry, defeating the purpose. I use Raka No blush hardener.

I have not had any problem with paint over well cured epoxy. I generally use Inerlux Brightside - Hatteras White, which is a pretty good match. If I am concerned with a smooth gloss finish I use the Interlux primer as it fills and sands well. Otherwise I have not found that a primer is necessary.
 
I have painted Petit Yacht White Undercoater followed by Petit Easypoxy over West Epoxy with excellent and long lasing results,hundreds of times when we built and maintained wooden boats. Simply wash the amine blush off well,sand to a #80 or #100 profile,put on as many coats of undercoater as needed so it will sand out perfectly smooth at a #220 profile and then topcoat with two coats.


Just the other day I visited a friend of mine who bought my old 36' York sportfish that I built a new flybridge on back in 1996.The bridge is made of MDO plywood,glued,screwed,bunged,then West over 3 coats and painted as above.Outside of a few checks near the hardcorners close to the endgrain, a bit faded and in need of paint,the original paint is still in remarkably good condition.
 
"then scratch up the surface everywhere and very well with 80 grit minimum."

Be aware that 80 grit WILL show sanding scratches with silicone alkyd finish paints...I see no reason why such a coarse sandpaper is required....I usually used 120 or 150 grit and have never had a problem with adhesion....

Remove the blush, of course....and that is best to do right before painting....
 
I agree with you Rob about a finer profile if the topcoat is to be applied right away or over a thin primer,but when using a thick high build primer like Undercoater,Imron,Awlgrip or Sterling, 80 grit is fine. It gives the high build primer something to really key onto while it easily fills the 80 grit scratches and a lot more.
 

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