A damn good question

[GJD]

Sitting on the hard and getting ready for this season (yee haa) and have been diligently working through the punch list of stuff to do.

One of the larger projects has been rebedding the screws from the bridge into the top deck (about 166 of em). Have followed others' very astute directions - drilling bigger hole (roughly 1/2"), reaming the core, filling with West System and having completed that it dawns on me that there's no way that 3/4 to 1" screws will do anything to strenghthen the bond that's been created with the epoxy 'plug' that's now effectively joining the bridge to the deck.

So I'm thinking about simply fairing and repainting (we're repainting the top deck anyway).

Mind you I'm a newbie and want to be damned sure we don't screw the pooch - so where am I going wrong here? Any of you experts have an opinion this way or that?

Gracias

 

[SKYCHENEY]

You could fair and paint, but I'm not sure that you will really have an adequate fastening of the bridge to the cabin top. Screws will do nothing more at this point either. What I would do is tab it from the inside of the bridge to hold it in place.

 

[GJD]

Thanks Sky - Appreciate your comment

Those 'shoulder washers' that go with those original type screws DO exceed the diameter of the drilled/filled holes so the screws/washers would be getting a 'purchase' onto the bridge and then into those new epoxy plugs - it just seems sorta redundant. Seems to me the epoxy plugs would be 10x's stronger than those dinky screws.

 

[SKYCHENEY]

The fear is really if you were to catch a big wave or heavy wind that would put some real force against the bridge. But, I would think a tab in every corner and then a few more spaced every 3 to 4 feet would be far stronger than the original mounting. The hardest part would be climbing in there to do it. Maybe you'll get some other ideas.

 

[yachtsmanbill]

Those washers are called finish washers. Being as thin as they are, the screw heads can and sometimes do pull through.
Ask SKY how thick that roof is. If its at least 1/2" I would drill and tap and install a machine screw. Any machine screw that has more thread length engagement than diameter is good.
I.E. if you have 1/2" deep and 1/4-20 machine screw, it would be tough to strip out the threads before the screw breaks. I routinely drill and tap my stuff with a cordless drill. Re-bed everything with 5200, clean up and enjoy.
166 screws up there should survive a ground zero blast! ws

 

[GJD]

Sky was it you who said a long time ago (nother post) that you had covered/faired over your old holes then countersunk new screws and covered/faired them too? (I'm being too lazy to search it up)

 

[SKYCHENEY]

Sky was it you who said a long time ago (nother post) that you had covered/faired over your old holes then countersunk new screws and covered/faired them too? (I'm being too lazy to search it up)

No, it wasn't me, but I do remember that thread. FYI, the hardtop is over 2" thick up there. The problem is that if you drill through the new epoxy plugs, you have defeated the whole purpose of doing it in the first place, ie to prevent water intrusion into the coring.

I have never removed one of these bridges, so I don't know how much sealant is under them. It may vary depending on age and who installed it initially, Hatteras or some dealer or some PO or yard. If it's never been off then it may be stuck down so well with 5200 that you don't need any screws or tabbing at all, but I wouldn't count on it.

I'm sure others here could give you some more insight that have done this before. I have only removed and rebedded my screws with 3M 4000. It's a temporary fix, but maybe someday I'll do it right.

 

[primecut]

I agree I'm not sure what putting a new screw through the epoxy plug would do. The plugs are as I understand now through the bridge and the top deck. So it will get faired painted. Why not just go in between epoxy plugs with new countersunk holes or whatever was there to begin with. It will be stronger as you'll have roughly the same amount of screws, the epoxy plugs and will look original.

 

[GJD]

Thanks all for your comments - I think perhaps either Sky or Prime's suggestions make a hell of a lot of sense. Will see if I can get pics and post results.

Much obliged

 

[surfdancer45]

Tabbing along with your expoxy plugs will certainly hold the bridge securely but have you thought about possible bridge removal in the future? It would be a significant task to remove if expoxied in place. The expoxy job would be a cleaner look and eliminate any possibilty of water intrusion. Just be sure you do not think you will need to remove down the road. My 2 cents. Bob