8-71 TI Temp

[scottinsydney]

1. SCARLETT is the only foreign captain to have driven my boat down Sydney Harbour. I enjoyed sitting on the front deck talking to Mrs Scarlett in the sunshine. 2. Is there a parts diagram to explain the orings and plate associated with the outlet side of the heat exchanger?

 

[Capt Chad]

I think my heat exchanger wasn't exactly straight on the outlet side. I used the old metal seal to tap the new one in. I'll bet I crushed the new one a little. Anyway, new gaskets and seals ordered. I'll dry fit everything this time before I snug anything up.

 

[Capt Chad]

Like I said, the heat exchanger looked great. It's definitely not the cause of my overheating. In still without answers.

I had a guy suggest the pressure cap? What do you guys think? I will of course try it. I have tried everything else. It would make sense that after this year long quest it would be a $15 item.

 

[Fanfare]

I don't think that would cause overheating unless you are losing coolant through the overflow drain.

As I recall, 8-71s require an 8 psi cap. Don't go to a higher pressure one.

 

[racclarkson@gmail.com]

Starting to sound like the water pump needs a rebuild.

 

[Capt Chad]

Pulled the boat out today. The clamshell/water intake grate on that side had taken a lick at some point but nothing bad enough to impede water flow. In short I saw nothing to point at the overheat problem. I'm out of ideas.

 

[Capt Chad]

Robert, were you referring to the raw water pump or the circulating pump?

 

[racclarkson@gmail.com]

Robert, were you referring to the raw water pump or the circulating pump?

The coolant pump, freshwater circuit, front of motor.

 

[Capt Chad]

Well, it's the only thing I haven't had apart. What the hell, why not.

 

[Capt Chad]

Anything special needed besides the kit?

 

[racclarkson@gmail.com]

Anything special needed besides the kit?

Have you got the book? I can check later if needed.

 

[racclarkson@gmail.com]

BTW, I hope you are planning to run some descaler through the freshwater coolant side. Might be a good idea to do that before you start tearing down.

 

[Capt Chad]

Just got the boat back in the water from a haulout to locate a vibration and get some bottom paint. I have ordered the kit. So, being that I am hauling 5 gallon buckets up and down the dock to get rid of old coolant and for any flushing. What IS recommended for a 1 time flush before I pull the pump off?

 

[Briankinley2004]

I used the cascade powder dish detergent. Mix up a cup full in some warm water then add to distilled water in the engine. Several diesel mechanics have suggested this to me and it seemed to work

 

[racclarkson@gmail.com]

I used the cascade powder dish detergent. Mix up a cup full in some warm water then add to distilled water in the engine. Several diesel mechanics have suggested this to me and it seemed to work

I think the cascade is good if you have oil in the coolant. Penray 2001 or 2015 are good choices. Whatever you use, you’re still gonna need to flush the flush. I wouldn’t bother with distilled water for flushing. Use that or pre-mixed coolant for your final fill.

 

[Photolomy]

This is a timely thread for me. Is this the proper sequence to flush/clean the fresh water side of the cooling...

1. Add gallon of Penray 2001 to each engine.
2. Run for 20 minutes.
3. Drain.
4. Fill with regular water.
5. Run for 10 minutes.
6. Drain.
7. Inspect (using endoscope).
8. Replace Zincs.
9. Fill with 50/50 distilled/antifreeze.

 

[racclarkson@gmail.com]

This is a timely thread for me. Is this the proper sequence to flush/clean the fresh water side of the cooling...1. Add gallon of Penray 2001 to each engine.2. Run for 20 minutes.3. Drain.4. Fill with regular water.5. Run for 10 minutes.6. Drain.7. Inspect (using endoscope).8. Replace Zincs.9. Fill with 50/50 distilled/antifreeze.

i disagree. 1/2 gallon of Penray per 8 gallons of coolant. So keep count of what you drain. Also, zincs are on raw water side. They don’t enter in this job. Endoscopes are fine but won’t tell you much on coolant side. True test is condition of the flush water. Not clear, needs more work. Regarding earlier post re Cascade, DW detergents don’t completely dissolve in water under 130 degrees. Therefore, pre mix that in a pot of boiling water and add to your fill bucket for best results.

 

[Photolomy]

Thanks!

For some reason I thought the coolant capacity (8v71ti) was 13 gallons, but now I see it is 7 gallons, so 1/2 gallon per engine.

 

[racclarkson@gmail.com]

Thanks!For some reason I thought the coolant capacity (8v71ti) was 13 gallons, but now I see it is 7 gallons, so 1/2 gallon per engine.

I think you’re referencing a non-marine configuration. The HE will double or triple that figure. For example, my book shows 12-13 gallons; the reality is 24 gallons. That’s why it’s important to know how much came out.

 

[Photolomy]

Yes, that is where I got the 13, from the book. I will measure it as I drain it. That is going to be a lot more antifreeze ($$$) than I expected.

Also, I will be doing the raw water side as well, and the Genesis method (referenced in threads) seems to be pretty good?