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58 YF Galley Window Frame Replacement

  • Thread starter Thread starter Ruben
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Ruben

Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2023
Messages
17
Status
  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
58' YACHT FISHERMAN (1970 - 1981)
My 1979 58 YF has leaky galley windows (big surprise) and the aluminum inside is badly pitted. I think it's time for new window frames. What are some options that isn't going to break the bank. I think I'd prefer solid windows with no sliding glass.
 
I agree with the fixed windows. One less issue for a leak. Looking forward to everybody’s Input
 
I pulled my galley windows out, had them sandblasted repainted, reglazed tinted and reinstalled. Not a fun job at all but worth it. Did it three years ago and I’m still finding butyl tape. Lookout Boat Windows is another option, but I’m not sure how things are going for them. Had considered using them, but when I made my decision, it was shortly after Broadus died so things weren’t going so well at the time and I needed to fix the leak.
 
Lately we winter in Florida so we miss most of the really hot weather. Most of the time all our windows and doors are all open. However, we run the aft AC covering the master, guest and both heads most of the time with the aft hatch and ports closed. This is more for marina soundproofing than anything else. (We're closer together than in a trailer park.) This cuts off the normal bow to stern airflow. So we keep the bow hatch and both galley windows open, all of which have screens. This contributes a bit to salon ventilation as well. I may turn the galley AC on briefly for cooking lunch but then I have to close all the salon doors to exclude those pesky flies. Last year between February and mid April I only had to run all four AC units on about four hot days using this plan. Kept the boat comfortable and minimized the electrical bill and AC wear. The front hatch has to go down for rain but the galley sliders are better as the screens lead rain down the frame and away.

We renewed our galley frames and I recommend keeping the sliders.
 
Lately we winter in Florida so we miss most of the really hot weather. Most of the time all our windows and doors are all open. However, we run the aft AC covering the master, guest and both heads most of the time with the aft hatch and ports closed. This is more for marina soundproofing than anything else. (We're closer together than in a trailer park.) This cuts off the normal bow to stern airflow. So we keep the bow hatch and both galley windows open, all of which have screens. This contributes a bit to salon ventilation as well. I may turn the galley AC on briefly for cooking lunch but then I have to close all the salon doors to exclude those pesky flies. Last year between February and mid April I only had to run all four AC units on about four hot days using this plan. Kept the boat comfortable and minimized the electrical bill and AC wear. The front hatch has to go down for rain but the galley sliders are better as the screens lead rain down the frame and away. We renewed our galley frames and I recommend keeping the sliders.
Did you renew them somewhere or did you do them yourself? My windows have actually holes from the corrosion
 
There is another thread about Lookout Boat Window - Their phones are disconnected, their website is in "maintenance mode" as of the last time I clicked on the ad here on the forums. Just a piece of advice on the window removal process, there are several excellent threads on here that helped me. Do yourself a huge favor, track down the threads and review the process. It helped me so much I can't even begin to imagine what I would have run into otherwise.
 
what kind of shape is the outside of the frame, most of the leaks on galley windows is where the frame seals against the fiberglass. if the outside of the frame is in good shape just pull them and re-seal against the fiberglass. the inside aluminum does not have to be removed, it is just trim and to stop some water intrusion from the track
 
I’ve seen the frames develop pinholes on the bottom tract area. I tried to TIG up some of the holes and just made it worse. I lightly sandblasted the bottom and put a piece of matt and resin. And then did the same on the wood it sat on which had started to rot. A MY may not have the corrosion problems I have.
 
I’ve seen the frames develop pinholes on the bottom tract area. I tried to TIG up some of the holes and just made it worse. I lightly sandblasted the bottom and put a piece of matt and resin. And then did the same on the wood it sat on which had started to rot. A MY may not have the corrosion problems I have.

Don't be too sure. When I removed the frames for my galley sliders on Pau Hana, I had rotten (read missing) wood under both frames. I actually tried something I had seen on here but with a little tweak. I bought several packs of wood door shims at Lowes, and used them to fill in the gaps. Then I poured hot epoxy mix in slowly and let it settle, and cure. I didn't fill it all in at once, i did it over about an hour. Once I was done, I let it cure/harden overnight, sanded it down and reinstalled the window frame with butyl tape on the back side of the flange. Once it was in place I went back and tucked in a different kind of butyl tape - It was a string style from Home Depot that I used a plastic scraper to push in. I put all the screws in part way, then went around and used a screwdriver to snug each screw down. Once they were snugged I went back and tightened opposing screws. I waited a couple of days and repeated the hand-tightening. No more leaks.
 
When I had my frames out I used adhesive window flashing around the opening to stop the possibility of water getting into the wall and starting rot. When the frames went back in with butyl tape it was all covered.

Walt Hoover
 
When I had my frames out I used adhesive window flashing around the opening to stop the possibility of water getting into the wall and starting rot. When the frames went back in with butyl tape it was all covered.

Walt Hoover

Now I wish I'd thought of that!
 
Waterway Systems in Bradenton FL has the gigs to make new window frames I would keep the sliders .
 

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