53 MY Repower, started!

[Walter P]

I had no idea that the balsa core extended below the water line on the stern. Years ago I had one of
my 43 DC's at Brickhouse boat yard for a bunch of work including Awlgrip paint. While it was there I
had them route the exhaust out the sides about a foot or so from the stern. They did an excellent job.
The reason I had that done was because the smell of the exhaust was pretty bad due to the station
wagon effect. After the re routing to the sides, the problem was solved. The downside was that the
sound level was noticeably worse in the lower station.

Walt

 

[SEVEN]

Are you dropping them in with painting the engine rooms? Hopefully it’s just a dry fit. What a job!!!!!

 

[Pascal]

Yes just a dry fit to work out the engine beds. It will come back up. Then after thenhull has been reinforced around the stabs, the unused TH and Xducers holes plugged the ERs will Be painted.

 

[SEVEN]

What a journey. Congratulations

 

[Tim Powell]

what displays are you using I just saw the new stuff it is the size of the tack and has all the stuff in it.

 

[egaito]

I'm 29-30kt WOT. Easy cruise is 18-19kt at 1800. Mine are 420hp 8.3s with the denso pump, but they all make the same HP at cruise.

I posted speed number for my boat once, and was called a liar!

 

[krush]

I posted speed number for my boat once, and was called a liar!

I think you said it was with 330hp (typo). But anyway, I think she's got a knot or two left in her (I only care about cruise)---I've been researching props.

 

[Pascal]

Things have been moving a little slower than I wanted but we re making progress

After positioning the first engine it turned out that the stringers had to be cut down to lower the engines in order to accommodate the down angle ZF. They reinforced the inside of the stringers with marine ply and they re about to reglass the top and sides. That should be done by next week and they re making the alum engine beds that will be bolted on top.

 

[Pascal]

Not hatteras related but I have another 70s project going on... this week the rebuilt V12 went back in my 72 E-type... looks like both the E-type and the Hatt should leave the shop/yard around the same time... the car was painted first though while the hatt cosmetics will be done after the mechanicals

 

[Walter P]

IMO the E type Jag was one of the best looking cars ever. Please post pictures as you progress with it.
Restoring classic cars and boats is probably every enthusiasts dream but very few have the time, talent,
facilities and resources to successfully do it. You seem to have it together...... keep it up and be sure
to keep us all in the loop.

Walt

 

[Scarlett]

Love the old E’s had a 64 XKE for a while in high school. The guy down the street gave it to me after he bought a new one. He wanted me to work on that great Lucas electrical system and get it in shape so he could sell it. Lots of fun to drive. I know this guy that has a Jaguar dealer ship and I surveyed his Viking 63 motor yacht. It was called Sea Type, get it. John

 

[Pascal]

Love the old E’s had a 64 XKE for a while in high school. The guy down the street gave it to me after he bought a new one. He wanted me to work on that great Lucas electrical system and get it in shape so he could sell it. Lots of fun to drive. I know this guy that has a Jaguar dealer ship and I surveyed his Viking 63 motor yacht. It was called Sea Type, get it. John

Terry... he is the leading expert on C-types and D-types... he doesn't had a dealership but runs one of the top C or D-type restoration shops in the world. I ve know him for years. I helped him move the Viking from Tampa to the abacos a few years ago before he shipped it to the west coast

 

[Scarlett]

That’s him, he has the Viking for sale. John

 

[bigbill]

Pascal, why put plywood in the stringers when there are much better non rotting options? spending the amount of money that you are i would make sure it lasted for a lifetime

 

[Pascal]

That was my first reaction when we discussed it but the filling in the stringers isn't critical as originally it s all foam. The loads are carried by the glass,not the inside.

Plus they will Be sealed anyway so water won't get in. Marine ply is fine in this case.

 

[Boatsb]

No they will not be completely sealed. And there's the patching where the top will be weaker than originally. Adding some horse power will test the stringers.


Best way to do it is fill with coosa or another closed cell product piped in with resin and some fiber. Over the top add a steel (yes steel) bar with tapped holes for the stringer caps.

Then when it's sealed over and glassed it will become solid and will secure the stringer caps properly.

 

[Cricket]

When we did the CAT repower we added 1/2" steel to the top of the stringers bulkhead to bulkhead and then glassed over the steel, lots of glass. We then tapped the holes for the isolator mounts, no aluminum cap, came out really well. Not a big fan of plywood, would rather use mahogany, or also agree this is a perfect application for the dense (26lb?) Coosa board.
Are they doing the glass work with polyester or epoxy?
Btw, enjoying the photos and process, great project.

 

[Boatsb]

When we did the CAT repower we added 1/2" steel to the top of the stringers bulkhead to bulkhead and then glassed over the steel, lots of glass. We then tapped the holes for the isolator mounts, no aluminum cap, came out really well. Not a big fan of plywood, would rather use mahogany, or also agree this is a perfect application for the dense (26lb?) Coosa board.
Are they doing the glass work with polyester or epoxy?
Btw, enjoying the photos and process, great project.

I'd like to see the pics of the steel. I've replaced a few stringers in boats and have never tried steel on the top. Only inside the lamination.

 

[jim rosenthal]

Pascal, is that the bonnet from your car? Because it has the covered headlights, which is a Series 1 thing. Just curious.

 

[q240z]

Both the boat and the Jag are looking great! You'll never have a problem with the marine ply. But I tend to agree that if you're threading the top plate, steel would be a better choice than aluminum. On my aluminum Roamer, the stringers are aluminum plate topped with 3/8" angle. The engine vibration isolators are thru-bolted. But I suppose if the engineers have worked it out for threaded aluminum...go for it!

On the Jag, my personal fave is the Series 1 with the enclosed headlights. Is the '72 the year they started rubber bumpers?