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52C or 53C refit, project thoughts or experience

  • Thread starter Thread starter nor'easter
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yes. she's old, tired, and in need of a refit, but she's a good starting point. problem with most refits is they cost too much in terms of paying for too many things that need to be thrown out and replaced.

and to think if they're "asking" 99....

likely the survey will uncover many issues, but one should expect them at this price.
 
Maybe somebody left off the first digit on that price.
 
I am sure Sky is correct. I hope someone trys to buy the boat for that. If it floats, and the pictures say it does, you could scrap it for the tower and engines and break even. Something is wrong here.
 
She look pretty tired in the pics. If I were ready now, it would be worth a look-see to check out what lurks below. Makes me wonder when a boat looks bad topsides......
 
the price of $99k for the 53 may be correct. in december of 2004 i saw a 60 sportfish on yachtworld for $250K. i thought it was a misprint as the boat had been for sale for $450k for over a year. i finally called after three days. the boat was already sold, but not for $250k. she went for $225k. she was beautiful. the story i heard was that the owner was under indictment. must of made him more agreeable to a low offer. if you want to see her she is on soldboat.com. her name was grand slam.
 
Sometimes deals like this come up, and they go FAST when they do.

BTW, don't be too surprised with a topsides that is less than stellar. That's one of the more expensive things to take care of when its time, and many people don't. Hell, Gigabite could use a paint job - but is she going to get one this year? No. Might she in the future? Maybe. But not this year....

Nonetheless, its hard to know what you've got from pictures - you really have to be there. I'm far, far more interested in the hull and systems than I am in cosmetics. While a paint job is expensive, there's something to be said for having it done yoursellf rather than having someone do it to sell the boat... you get to choose the yard, what's put on, how, etc....
 
Genesis,
Excellent point. I too am much more concerned with the quality and maintenance history of the systems. I am sure that a paint job is a huge undertaking to make sure it is done right, especially in a 53 footer. My comment was really based on my perception that the boat wasn't even clean or hadn't been well maintained in the pics. In the hull side exterior photos she doesn't look well cared for to me. I am sure that despite the best efforts of a dilligent owner 30 yr old paint on a boat is never perfect, but if I were selling that boat I wouldn't present it that way. I wouldn't present it that way when it weren't for sale either. My 2 cents. I would need to find a really good reason to fly in from San Diego to see that boat.
 
Soneone needs to buy that boat. I mentioned that boat earlier in this thread when it was listed for $119k, now reduced to $99k ask! Nor'easter, you may need to consider making a move now before you're truly ready just because of the deal. You could let the thing sit in a marina for a year until you can get the time to work on it or whatever. Boats usually sell somewhere within 10-20% of asking price brokers say, so now we're at $80k or so. :eek: The ad says bring ALL offers. I'd fax them an offer for $60k to see if they'll sign on the dotted line and if so, fly down and check it out. Easy to kick the deal because of survey findings on a deal like that if you felt the need.

I purchased a 58YF last summer because of the exact same reason, deal COULD NOT be passed up. Estate sale, boat had been listed for $239k for a while and family wanted to sell. Original owner and captain had passed so the boat must go. Excellent mechanical condition but fair external cosmetics (needs paint job). She had some above waterline dock rash in two areas from one of the big south FL storms that needed professional fiberglass repair to be done right so I researched and hired the right guy. Hull survey before and after the work, with surveyer contacting my fiberglass guy to tell him how it was to be done. AFTER I got the work done I was still well under $100k. Deal of a lifetime. Crazy rare situation that I stumbled upon and then worked to get the deal done. My dream boat showed up in my life years before I expected. Heck, even though I am more of a MY guy than SF, I'd be calling if I didnt already have mine.

SOMEBODY CALL!!!
 
If I had room to store it, maybe I should buy it and keep it for parts. I could always use a spare hull, right? Or maybe I could part it out on ebay. I wonder how I'd come out that way? :D :D
 
I live in Palm City and I could go take a bunch of digital pictures for you. I do not own a Hatteras (own a 42' "other" brand). I actually looked at a few boats with the broker, John Wise, a year before buying my current boat. John seemed to be a straight shooter. He will likely give you an honest opinion of the boat if you call and ask him. Let me know, and I'll see what I can do.
Mark
 
If I had a place to keep it until I could get to it, which might be a couple of years, I'd be all over that one..... but I don't.
 
You have all shed a different light on this scenario for me. There are a few deal breakers though, at least for me. None of them have to do with the boat. My wife is only starting her boating experience. To start with, she is having "difficulty" with the number$ involved in boat ownership. She descrides me as a "tug boat", as I have been able to exert slow, steady, but significant pressure to her attitude, and she is changing course (but slowly) ;)
We are still the proud owners or a 1995 39 SX that is for sale. We can't, and shouldn't, become 2 boat owners. This is especially true for me because the 53 would have to be moved to San Diego $$$, then berthed (no space and $$$$$), then work started on refit/defered maintenance/maintenance $x?. Who knows until you could go over the boat with a fine tooth comb that the boat would be able to travel on it's own bottom, or whether I would definetly have to ship it via docktransport, etc.
There is another one here in Socal that could use some love listed for 199. I am going to look into it. Even though the price is not the screaming deal that the 99k is, if I don't have to move it, and can sell my 39, it might be more palatable.
Thanks again. I am planning on seeing the socal boat in next 2 wks, any other specifics on what to look for would be great.
 
Common things to look for on the 53c. The screws that attach the flybridge to the top to the cabin will always leak if they are not periodically resealed. If this goes on long it will rot the balsa core in the cabin top. If you see water stains at the rear upper corners of the salon bulkhead that's most likely where it's from. Many 53's will have rotten bulkheads between the cockpit and salon from this. Look for damage from leaking salon windows and portholes. The foreward sole is commonly broken loose where it attaches to the hull. Easy repair though. The bow rail stanchoins are usually leaking. Check for damaged caused by this. Also Hatteras didn't seal the balsa core where fuel fills, water fills, and rod holders were installed. Balsa is usally rotten there. The cabin top overhang in the front and back are usaually cracked. In the early 70's the wiring used was not tinned wire so corrision can be an issue. Many joints are made with solder and electrical tape. Corrision attacks solder rapidly. The usally Hatteras hull blisters. Look bad but the hull is so thick it not usually a big deal. If I think of more or you have questions let me know. I know the 53c inside and out. I've done the 53c restoration thing myself. These are great boats but you are fooling yourself if you think it is a good economic decision to restore one. If you are making an emotional decision because you just have to have a classic 53c then go for it. Money be damned, you will have a great boat in the end. You will spend more than you can ever get back but you will have a great classic boat that will always turn heads. If you search the internet there are some great examples of what can be with these boats. Also FYI, the Cummins factory in Charleston, SC has a 53c that they use as test bed for some of their newest marine engines. Some interesting number come out of the testing that quickly squash the notion that these are "slow hulls".
 
Thanks harnett,
Are there certain years where water intrusion was a bigger problem at the sites you mentioned? I assume that most will have similar port and house window framing issues, but what about the coaming, and foredenck at the stanchions? Not being an FRP repair expert, what are the needed fixes for those problems?
Electrical. When did the wiring improve so that will be less of a concern, at least early?
Believe me, I know that this wouldn't be a financially "prudent" maneuver. I love the lines and reported ride of the 53, and want to fish and cruise it. I also love to tinker and spend time working and cleaning my boat, and would (not always I know) enjoy working towards the finished product. The bis stuff will be done at yards, but I want to have my hands on.
Thanks again, keep it coming. I have a chance to look at a 1980 in San Diego this weekend.
 
Where the stancions mounts to the foredeck is solid fiberglass. No coring so it is just a leak issue for the interior woodwork. The coaming area is cored and usually rotten around the fuel fills or rod holders. It is such a small cored area though no big deal. Pull the fittings, scrape out the rotten core and fill with epoxy. The flybridge attachment is a biggy. Mine leaked so badly it would run around the screws, through the core and down the salon walls when it rained. Was a worst case though. It had rotted the rear salon bulkhead though very badly. I have personally seen this type of bulkhead rot on at least 6 53c's. Very common. It is the way the brow is shaped. Funnels any water in the core right to the top plywood edge of the bulhead. If you ever take one apart you'll see clearly what I'm talking about. The only fix if the core is rotten is to remove one side of the fiberglass. Replace the core and relaminate the glass. Pretty big job. Not sure when they changed to tinned wiring. Have seen untinned in 1974 models. In my opinion the deep keel on the earlier 53c makes them roll less than the latter ones. It does cost some speed though. They will all take rougher water than you will want to.
 
Harnett, you say you did the 53c resto. If someone was going to restore the interior of a 53 by themselves but leave the exterior paint to the pros. What is a ball park figure on a complete ext. paint job on one of these 53c's . I know you can't give an exact fig., but is it 20k,70k,100k, what is a ball park fig. Thanks in advance.
________
CHEVROLET VEGA
 
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Everyone has opinions on what is "quality work" and a lot depends on the condition to begin with. The only way to get a first class job to to remove most of the hardware and sand off most of the old paint in my opinion. Many here will disagree but it's the same as restoring a classic car. You won't see show winning cars with masking tape lines around the crome trim. That said, and knowing how much work is involved I would say you'd be in the 50k range. To paint the hull and topside of a 53c will consume around 20 gallons of paint. Also 20 gallons of primer, misc. thinner, filler, tape, strainers, etc..... All over $10,000 of material.

For what it's worth, Awlgrips newest paint yields amazing results by rolling and tipping. Did my engine room this way after filling and fairing the hull sides. If I didn't know better I would never believe it wasn't sprayed. I have painted many cars over the years and this stuff is just incredable. I would give serious consideration to painting the outside this way as a DIY project if I were giving suggestions. It is much easier than you think .
 
The paint cost info and experience is good info for me as well. I am looking at a 1980 53C this weekend that looks well cared for. She has 850 hrs on mains SMOH. There is also a 1977 a little further north that i might check out next weekend.
I may as well start the recon to see if this is feasible for me in the future.
 
these projects are simply based upon the abilities and tolerance of the owner. if i didn''t have mine in hand i'd almost blindly buy the cheapest one on the market that i could find knowing full well that a ton of work will be needed. the difference between that one and the better-kept one is typically only a matter of a little more time.

there are methods to fixing these issues that are correct, and then there are the fast and cheap ones. for instance don't let someone simply fill the holes for the screws for the stantions. they should be drilled out wider, counter sunk, and then filled. you want to create a bigger hole and more surface area to bond to that's also clean from any grease or solvents.

lots of little tricks. be prepared. like i said, buying the better-kept boat for more money will result in you having to deal with many of these issues sooner or later. that's the nature of the beast of an older vessel. done properly, though, yields tremendous pleasure.
 
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