Sam's is your source for Hatteras and Cabo Yacht parts.

Enter a part description OR part number to search the Hatteras/Cabo parts catalog:

Email Sam's or call 1-800-678-9230 to order parts.

454 oil

  • Thread starter Thread starter BobWaz
  • Start date Start date
  • Replies Replies 20
  • Views Views 9,491

BobWaz

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 15, 2005
Messages
218
Status
  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
40' DOUBLE CABIN-Series I (1986 - 1989)
What oil and weight is everyone using in their 454 blocks? Manual says straight 30 but that was back in 87. Oil technology has come a long way since.
 
Depends on location and use.

My hemi truck uses 5W20 I think. Its in the manual and they are getting scarry with lighter and lighter oils to meet the epa BS.

My Old ford truck called for 10W 30 or 40 and I started using 15W40 diesel in it with high zinc for years and never had a problem.

I liked the olf ford because I used the same oil as the diesel. valvoline Blue 15W40 diesel so I only needed to buy one kind.
 
Thanks Scott...The owner of the marina where I'm at swears by Rotella 15-40 diesel and uses it in all the big block engines. I run Mobil 1 5-40 in my Volvo turbo wagon. Has gone 238,000 miles and still does not burn a drop. In the past have had used cars with conventional oil and then went to synthetic. Have had mixed results.
 
I have been using Shell Rotella T3 (15W40) for a few years then decided to use Shell Rotella T6 (full synthetic 5W40) on my original 1989 Crusader 454's. I don't put a lot of hours on per season (~50). but the oil seems to work fine and have not noticed any oil use during the year (have not had to add any oil). The Rotella oil is marketed for diesel engines (compression combustion) but it is also rated for (spark combustion) gas engines.

Mark
Lake of the Woods
1989 40 DC
 
I have been using Shell Rotella T3 (15W40) for a few years then decided to use Shell Rotella T6 (full synthetic 5W40) on my original 1989 Crusader 454's. I don't put a lot of hours on per season (~50). but the oil seems to work fine and have not noticed any oil use during the year (have not had to add any oil). The Rotella oil is marketed for diesel engines (compression combustion) but it is also rated for (spark combustion) gas engines.

Mark
Lake of the Woods
1989 40 DC

Mark did you consume oil with the T3?
 
Those old big blocks need thick oil, rotella 15-40, or better yet a 20-50 from castrol or pennzoil, if you really beat on the motors hard, try some Brad Penn 20w-50, you can order it online not many retailers carry it at all, but it holds up under lots of heat.
 
Mark did you consume oil with the T3?

no, both my engines have approximately 850 origionl hours (never been rebuilt - just regular servicing). Neither engine burns oil (no matter what oil I have used). I have never had to add oil during a season. However I seldom do a WOT but tend to cruise at 1600 to 2400 RPM's. the 40 DC is a bit of a pig and is not the best as a plaining hull so I am happy doing my 8 to 12 mph when cruising. For us the journey is as enjoyable as the destination.

I went from Rotella T3 to T6 because I just thought that a full synthetic would offer better lubercation / protection. I did not do any research to back up my belief. Since I only use about 5 quarts per engine for a complete oil change the difference in cost per season from a less expensive oil to T6 is about $20 per engine. I can live with that. I also use the T6 in my 1989 Onan 9 kw gas generator (650 hours) and it works just fine in that motor as well.

If anyone knows of any good scientific evidence that another oil would be better for my old engine I can be convinvced to change.

Mark
lake of the woods
1989 40 DC
 
Worrying about the "best" oil for these engines is a misuse of the effort it takes to worry. Go to the parts store, buy some engine oil. Put it in. Change it periodically.

These motors are about as low stressed lubrication-wise as an engine can be. Cams are extremely mild, valve lift is very low, as is valve spring pressure. They only rev to around 4500 RPM.

If it was my boat, I'd use Valvoline because I've always thought it was a cool name for oil; I'd never use Amsoil for the opposite reason.

"Mobil One" sounds cool too but it's too expensive to waste on such mild motors.

:)
 
No Mike; that's the point. Older engines with *normal* cams are failing because emission requirements removed ZDDP from the oil.

Manufacturers went to roller tappets and low pressure springs to compensate for the newer oils, and most mild older engines don't fare well with the new formulations--not just HP or racing versions.

YMMV.

Failure symptoms are gradual loss of power as the cams flatten, not an issue of smoking, blowby, etc. so you wind up with a weak but running engine.

http://blog.motorists.org/warning-if-you-have-an-older-vehicle-choose-your-oil-carefully/

DAN
 
IMO the engines in question, if in stock condition, are not in any danger if using current "normal" engine oil. And if they were mine I would not concern myself with it. OTOH, it certainly won't hurt to buy oil that contains a higher level of scuff additives.

The above is the summary; below is the long version! :)


I am aware of all the issues (real and imagined ) re this subject but it basically applies to non-stock, modified performance motors. I assume, perhaps incorrectly, that the 454 engines in question are stock and unmodified - at least as far as the valve train is concerned. They are anything but performance engines (that's a GOOD thing in the marine application).

Virtually all of the issues with flat tappet cams/lifters has occurred relatively recently. The reality is that flat tappet cams/lifters are NOT made to the standard that they were years ago when they were part of the "normal" OHV valve train. Most of the US makers of flat tappet cams/lifters quit making them because there was no longer any money in it because, as noted, nobody uses flat tappets in OHV engine manufacturing anymore. Some cam makers now supply flat tappet cams/lifters that use dissimilar materials (!) made to a low price point. They used to grind/produce their own, now they import them (from guess where) because there is no profit in making them since there is very little demand. Performance/competition cams have been dominated by roller cams for MANY years and now that's the standard for any OHV production engine.

We used to get examples of wiped cam lobes quite regularly - even back in the old days - on engines that had been modified but the cams were improperly broken in. I'm not saying that the issue nowadays is due to a spate of poor break in - which can ruin a cam in 1500 miles or less - but the fact is that less than adequate break-in coupled with lesser quality cams/lifters may be part of the deal.

I totally agree that there must be "special" lubrication, for current flat tappet cams/lifters. IOW, if you buy a new flat tappet cam/lifters from say, Comp Cams, you will need a higher than standard level of scuff additives than some oils provide. But the motors in question here are not in that category UNLESS the valve train has been modified.

In any case, as noted earlier, if additional ZDDP is needed, an oil with the necessary amount of ZDDP already in it should be used as opposed to pouring a bottle of goop into the engine oil.
 
The manual says to use straight 30 or 40 wt oil, depending on temperature. Why use anything else? That's all I've used and at 27 years old and 1030 hours of 2 great running engines I'll continue. They are original, don't burn any oil, start right up, and no smoke. I'm a happy camper.
 
Been running Valvoline MaxLife 20w50 in my 1976 454's for over 10 years now with zero issues and zero oil consumption.
 
I have original Gen IV Mercruiser 454's in my 33' Bertram. I have been using Rotella 15W-40 for almost 5 years. Over 1700 hours and they still have excellent oil pressure and compression. I don't think there is any benefit to using synthetic oil in a boat, as you should already be changing the oil every 100 hours or so. I do it twice per year.
 
I wiped a cam in a mercruiser 454 (but due to many contributing factors, likely including water in the oil due to cracked heads...but very few hours in that condition).

I just run diesel oil in them. For boats, I use regualar dino diesel oil (not that many hours and more sitting). I heard dino oil is better for rust prevention, but who knows.

Wiping out the cams dues to flat tappets should be the #1 concern. Walfart sells STP still, and I think that has the zinc in it. But 15-40diesel oil has zinc too.
 
Keep in mind Crusader uses the old style Ford oil filter in our boats. Was a Purolater PER1 or Fram PH8A. There are commercial oil filters available for our 454 Crusader blocks. There was one by Purolater and know that NAPA makes one. They are 1 1/2 qt capacity and 50% more filter area. I have checked my situation and have plenty of clearance to use the longer filter. As a boat is basically a truck going up hill all the time, I like to do everything I can to preserve and improve what I can.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
38,156
Messages
448,748
Members
12,482
Latest member
UnaVida

Latest Posts

Trending content

Back
Top Bottom