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3m 4000 UV with no screws

  • Thread starter Thread starter krush
  • Start date Start date
  • Replies Replies 46
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Rusty, I did mine exactly like Mike said. With a drill and screwdriver bit it does not take that long to do the entire fly bridge. Stopped all my leaks even through last winter deluge. John
 
Thanks Scarlett. I'll pick up some 5200 tomorrow. I don't have any leaks but I want to replace all the screws and beauty rings.
 
Mine would flood the salon the first summer any time water got near the bridge :p
Took care of that problem.
Glass it down no reason to remove the bridge now that it is where it belongs :cool:
And it looks Way better.

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Would you please share how you glassed it down? what type of matt used? how wide? what did you fill the holes with? how many layers?

thanks. looks amazing
 
you still have to seal all of the holes if you glass the bridge down, if water gets inside the bridge it will find the old screw holes and run into them getting the coring wet and then start rotting. the PO did this to my boat and i'm now chasing wet core and rot on the outside of the bridge
 
Gus. I also glassed in my flybridge. I used 4 layers of 1708. I started with an 8 inch strip first and then a 7 then a 6 then a 5 I used vinyl ester resin and epoxy fairing compound I had to recore my entire roof deck and wasn’t about to put screws into it
 
Well heres a little blast from the past :cool:
So when it was glassed down that was in 2001 as you can see I put the bridge on the front deck then filled all the holes. You can see the older hatts have a curb for it to lock around. I then epoxied it down in place west system with filler.
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I then used more west to do the radius with a few layers of cloth because it was epoxy No mat.

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So after that on the inside I well actually the Wife crawled in there and poured epoxy in between the bridge and the curb to fill any gaps. So when I wash in there "which is the only time it gets wet inside" no water gets trapped.

If its a boat with a flange around the bridge I would epoxy down then just do 2-3 layers of 1708 eglass tape like 4" wide with epoxy around the inside and you can stagger the overlaps and call it done. I did my filling on the outside edge because it was a square edge and I wanted it to have a radius.
 
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Post back on the 4000UV after a few years. I don't recommend it. It is super chalky and leaves white crap on your hands if you touch it. Ironically the 5200 I used in other places does not chalk.

Other than the chalking, the bridge is still firmly held in place. So it least it works in that regard.
 

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