36 hatteras project

[jim rosenthal]

I agree. As to used 36 parts like an electrical panel, try Tom Slane. If anyone's got take-out Hatteras parts, he does. He has two 36s in his shop right now for comprehensive refits, and might have some of what you need to replace damaged stuff on your boat.

 

[George]

Take care of the mechanical first. Cosmetics can wait. Rebuild the raw water pumps and replace every hose and clamp.

agreed! then
Bilge pumps, Sea Cocks, Thru hull connections, Rudder plates, shaft logs, Grounding system. The train has left the station, so now you have to keep us updated with pictures to supplement the story of the rebuild. Have fun

 

[Kim Beatley]

I replaced the windows in my 36 C with custom windows from Wayne Enterprises, http://www.wynneinc.com/index.html I pulled out old windows, removed all rotten wood down to fiber glass and replace with new marine plywood and lots and lots of epoxy. I then made a full size wood templet and sent off to Wayne. I was happy with new windows. They fit perfectly and actually open and close easly. Getting the old windows out was a pain. Had to cut them out. New windows were really heavy, so it takes more that one person to install.

 

[jim rosenthal]

Kim, is that the old or new ones? If this is the old one, can we see a photo of the new ones?

You still have the original Kana High Styles running lights!! Very few 36s still have them. The company is no longer around, and these are somewhat rare. I assume they were on other Hatteras Yachts, but I have not seen them. If you ever see another set, grab them- they are hard to find.

 

[Kim Beatley]

Jim, those are the original windows. Attached photo is of new windows.

 

[Chiefleif]

Still going!!!!

Got a ton of wire cut out, ordered new wire, replaced and rewired bilges, all new 8 d batteries.
Here's some pics....

Where can I get a battery conditioner meter for the electrical panel,
Want to replace all the breakers also. They are old airpax, gonna upgrade to all 30s and 50s Any one know a good spot to buy. Found a few on eBay but $50 each+

Man there is a lot of work to do, lol

 

[Chiefleif]

Also still need pulpet

 

[jim rosenthal]

The battery condition meter is just a voltmeter, I think.

As for the electrical panel, I'd see if Tom or anyone else has a takeout you can cannibalize- if you need new AirPax breakers, Sam's has them, but they are not cheap. Not many are sold any more, so the price is high- they don't make a lot of them if they even still make them. You'll have to look at the back of the electrical panel and decide whether you should just replace it with a modern one, or maybe it is still usable.

Save the pulpit for later. Cover the holes in the deck and work from the inside out- like the engine room, the through-hulls, sea valves, shaft logs- all the fundamental stuff that can sink you if it isn't working.

 

[Beckytek]

Sam's should have the meter.

 

[Chiefleif]

Replacement

What are good Replacement panels, that can fit in the same dimensions?

Anybody already replace? With what?

 

[jim rosenthal]

Both Blue Seas Systems and Paneltronics make electrical panels that will do what you need. With what Airpax breakers cost, you may find it cheaper to replace the panels. You should contact both companies and see if they can make up a panel that will fit right into the area that is already set up for it. You should also photograph the panels you have (and if you have aircon you have another panel someplace that regulates the aircon units) so that you know where everything is- photos front and back, because once you remove them it may be difficult to figure this stuff all out.

Be aware that there is a chance that your 120 volt AC panel is set up differently from some modern ones- on many older Hatteras yachts, each AC circuit has TWO breakers, ganged- one switches the hot, and the other the neutral. Later boats just had all the neutrals tied together and switched only the hots, from what I understand. I can't comment on the merits of the two different methods, but bear in mind that if you replace the panel, you will either have to have them set it up like your old one, if you have the ganged-breaker design, or revise the wiring so that only the hots are switched. You may need some advice from a marine electrician on this.

 

[Mike36c]

I have the old electrical panel we removed from my buddies 45, I could send you the two missing 110v breakers if you choose to put off panel replacement to a later date.

 

[Avenger]

That is the later style panel, so you could consider refurbishing it. Obviously factoring the cost of Airpax breakers vs full replacement. And yes, the battery condition gauge is a voltmeter.

 

[jim rosenthal]

I found some used Airpax breakers at Bacon's last week, which I bought and took home. I don't think any of them will fit any needs on Blue Note, my boat, so I will put them in the parts for sale section with some photos when I get home. Also I found a voltmeter 0-300 AC volts, which obviously I can't use, either, with the Hatteras logo on it. I'll put up all these items at what I paid for them (none cost much) and maybe someone else can use them.

The factory wiring on Hatteras yachts was very well done. It's possible you could remove your electrical panel and clean it up and refurbish it for use. I don't know if there are alternatives to Airpax breakers which will fit into the same slot, but I will try to find out. If they do exist, Sam's would probably like to know as well.

 

[George]

If one or your team is good with resin, you may want to skip the window frame replacement and opt for frame less. Basically when you take those frames off, like when I did, there were a myriad of issues with the laminates pulling apart because of the water intrusion over the years. Basically we had to inject epoxy into the areas surrounding the removed frame, screw and clamp, then we wound up making the ledges where the new windows sit in. Takes time and patience, but be prepared for your options.

 

[34Hatt]

If one or your team is good with resin, you may want to skip the window frame replacement and opt for frame less. Basically when you take those frames off, like when I did, there were a myriad of issues with the laminates pulling apart because of the water intrusion over the years. Basically we had to inject epoxy into the areas surrounding the removed frame, screw and clamp, then we wound up making the ledges where the new windows sit in. Takes time and patience, but be prepared for your options.

George

That looks Great!

I have been thinking about getting rid of my aluminum frames they just Suck! You can't keep a finish on them then this winter with the boat covered a window cracked seems the cold and shrinking of the frame put pressure on a corner and the tempered glass just let go!

Do you have more pictures and info on how you did the frame less glassing and fab work is not a problem for me.
Thanks Dan

 

[jim rosenthal]

The only way to keep a finish on the aluminum frames is to buff them down to bare aluminum and then paint them with aluminum colored Imron or AwlGrip. We did this when my boat was last painted and it has held up very well. The areas are small enough that you could do it with a brush. Of course, you will feel foolish painting metal to look like metal, but after you don't have to clean and wax it a few hundred times, you will feel far less foolish. I speak from experience. We did this with all the aluminum parts on Blue Note and they still look good. That paint is fourteen years old now.

If I were doing this now, I would absolutely get new windows or frameless ones. No question on it. They weren't around at that time, or I didn't know of them.

 

[George]

George

That looks Great!

I have been thinking about getting rid of my aluminum frames they just Suck! You can't keep a finish on them then this winter with the boat covered a window cracked seems the cold and shrinking of the frame put pressure on a corner and the tempered glass just let go!

Do you have more pictures and info on how you did the frame less glassing and fab work is not a problem for me.
Thanks Dan

This work was done at Jarret Bay Boat Works. JB has it's own suppliers of glass, and perhaps if you call them, they will share the contact with you. We had to use a lot of screws to hold the laminates together so painting on the outside will be in order. here is a shot of the back salon window before glass and another window. They framed out the inside after all was done. H and here is that that looked like as well
.

 

[34Hatt]

This work was done at Jarret Bay Boat Works. JB has it's own suppliers of glass, and perhaps if you call them, they will share the contact with you. We had to use a lot of screws to hold the laminates together so painting on the outside will be in order. here is a shot of the back salon window before glass and another window. They framed out the inside after all was done. H and here is that that looked like as well
.

Thanks George that help glass is easy got a glass guy I just don't follow the use of screws to hold which laminates together.

Also was the front smaller window done with glass or was it a panel painted black?

 

[George]

Thanks George that help glass is easy got a glass guy I just don't follow the use of screws to hold which laminates together.

Also was the front smaller window done with glass or was it a panel painted black?

On the aft side of the windows, water seeped between the housing and outer fiberglass. The wood was naturally compromised, so they injected hot epoxy behind the fiberglass outer, pressed it together, screwed it and let cure. in essence, they had to create a whole new sandwich between the inner and outer. You will likely see when you take your frames out.
We left the mullion in as you can see to preserve the strength of the saloon, installed two windows.
The mullion between the two windows is painted black