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32 Volt Survey

  • Thread starter Thread starter riverrandy
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For better batteries, I suppose it depends on how you define better. My definition would be long life and reliability. But I don't have a house bank that gets deeply discharged, at least not in my current use pattern.

My starting bank are ordinary good-quality Dekas, three Gr 24s (which fit crossways into a Hatteras 8D case, btw) I got eleven years out of the last set, which were said to be five year batteries. My "house" bank is two Odyssey Group 31s, and when they go, I will put 4D AGMs in those cases. Something that can be cycled down without damage, if I decide to stay out more when I am working less.

I added battery monitors a few years back, and smart alternator regulators, and I think that has been helpful in terms of battery life.
 
For better batteries, I suppose it depends on how you define better. My definition would be long life and reliability. But I don't have a house bank that gets deeply discharged, at least not in my current use pattern.

My starting bank are ordinary good-quality Dekas, three Gr 24s (which fit crossways into a Hatteras 8D case, btw) I got eleven years out of the last set, which were said to be five year batteries. My "house" bank is two Odyssey Group 31s, and when they go, I will put 4D AGMs in those cases. Something that can be cycled down without damage, if I decide to stay out more when I am working less.

I added battery monitors a few years back, and smart alternator regulators, and I think that has been helpful in terms of battery life.

"Better Batteries" are those that take advantage of the major improvements in technology. LI-ON will discharge almost 100% where Lead-Acid is 30% of 1/2 of the amp hours available. All at a fraction of the weight and size. Weight is not my issue, but I would like to increase the storage capacity exponentially, and despite having an ER big enough for pick up basketball I don't want to loose too much real estate down there.

So you have 36 volts to start, and 24 volt house? Will your alternator (I assume 36v) charge both sets of different voltages, or just the starting batteries?

Where did you find "smart alternator regulators"?
 
This seams to be a thread of some interest, and I am learning some good points. What my goal here is to find out if there was a market for Lithium/Ion batteries in the 32 v size (or variations of that). I am not going to rewire a functioning boat, I am looking for "Better Batteries" (obviously subjective).

But the market for 32 v lithium wouldn't mean just 32 v lithium house batteries. They would also have to be able to start the engines, and if I am not mistaken, that kind of current isn't generally what these lithium battery packs are designed for. Is it? If you are only talking for house batteries, then I see no point at all in getting 32 v lithium. I would just as well get 24 or 48 v lithium and an inverter, and leave my 32 v agm batteries right where they are.
 
So you have 36 volts to start, and 24 volt house? Will your alternator (I assume 36v) charge both sets of different voltages, or just the starting batteries?

Where did you find "smart alternator regulators"?

Actually, my boat, which is smaller than most here, is all 12vdc. Two of the three Gr24s are paralleled as a starting bank. The third starts the generator. The two Gr 31 Odysseys are the house bank. The smart regulators, which really do make a difference in alternator performance versus the simple one-stage regulators that are internal to most alternators, were made by Balmar. Balmar also make alternators, and very good ones, but just putting a better smart regulator on most marine diesel alternators improves the performance quite a bit.
 
But the market for 32 v lithium wouldn't mean just 32 v lithium house batteries. They would also have to be able to start the engines, and if I am not mistaken, that kind of current isn't generally what these lithium battery packs are designed for. Is it? If you are only talking for house batteries, then I see no point at all in getting 32 v lithium. I would just as well get 24 or 48 v lithium and an inverter, and leave my 32 v agm batteries right where they are.

From what I have learned thus far is Li-ion seem to be capable of "duel purpose" and more. It seems to be a programming thing not Mechanical/chemical. Lithium Pro (out of TN) builds a 16v Drag Race battery. It starts the super high compression engines, and runs all systems for the car for the entire race day with out an alternator. When I talked with them about putting these in series to create 32v, engineer said these were not programmed to do it that way, and it would burn out the computer chip on the battery.

He went on to say he did not think there was a market big enough for a 32 volt system of LI-Ion batteries. After hanging up with him and thinking some I asked myself how big could the 16v drag race market be? so That is why I am trying to determine what the market is for 32 v Li-Ion batteries. Often markets and opportunities get over looked because the best question is not always asked.

For example I should have titled this thread "WHO WANTS THE BEST 32V BATTERIES IN THE WORLD THAT WILL OUT PERFORM ROLLS?" please PM me your email address. My guess is I would already have 50 names for 2 sets of 32v batteries already. What I got is an interesting discussion on 32v systems and some non-32v systems.
 
So as I go back through the post, I count 26 owners that intend on keeping 32 volts for their needs aboard. Who else would like access to a battery (now or in the future) which can start your LARGE engine, And run your house for say 32 hours with out recharging, in a smaller footprint?:rolleyes:
 
Count me in.... would this also require a new battery charger?
 
1987 53 Hatteras ‘ 32 volt system and I am in need of 8volt batteries, choices are limited and I don’t feel like changing the system, it’s built like a tank And would prefer to keep it this way.
 
1987 53 Hatteras ‘ 32 volt system and I am in need of 8volt batteries, choices are limited and I don’t feel like changing the system, it’s built like a tank And would prefer to keep it this way.

Call EPowerrail.com 570-883-7005 for Rolls 8HHG25PM
 
or for less $$, and lower CCA, you can use golf cart batteries. Does require recabling. Trojan T875's. It is NOT oem, but many boats in our area who cruise the bahamas a lot have gone to that setup without issue.
 
or for less $$, and lower CCA, you can use golf cart batteries. Does require recabling. Trojan T875's. It is NOT oem, but many boats in our area who cruise the bahamas a lot have gone to that setup without issue.

But you won't get 12-15 years of service out of them like you should with the Rolls. It all depends on how often you want to lug batteries in and out.
 
Interesting. Those are Golf Cart Rolls vs the OEM Hatteras Rolls. What are the price and specification differences between those two?

There is an OEM Hatteras Rolls battery? What exactly do you mean by that?

These were $160 or so a piece, picked up in Delaware no tax.
 
There are many specialized battery makers in China for LiPo batteries. I'd love to have a set of 8. In addition to Hatteras, lots of golf carts still around for 8v usage.

I am trying to determine the rough number of 32 volt users still in the world. I am too stubborn to give up on what seems to be an extremely robust system, so I am trying to convince a specialty Battery company of the market size.

Would any of you 32 volt using yachtsmen/women please respond. Thank you
 
There is an OEM Hatteras Rolls battery? What exactly do you mean by that?

These were $160 or so a piece, picked up in Delaware no tax.

The OEM actually had a part number that started with HATT. Now they are number 8HHG25PM. Two of them fit perfectly in a battery box.
 
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My boat has been partially converted to 12v by the previous owner. All of the interior lights are 12v, all the nav equipment runs off 12v (which is unnecessary, raymarine is one of the last manufacturers you can feed with 32v) as well as the vacuflush systems and a bunch of other stuff. The prior owner added a xantrex pure sine wave inverter with an additional house battery bank in the generator room powering the 12v system. The xantrex is all electronic and fully automatic, it switches between inverter and gen on its own, operates in reverse to charge the batteries when it detects an ac source, and is generally just a neat device. No risk from putting it to use either, it’s a totally independent system from the engine and generator batteries, you can’t get stuck somewhere by forgetting it’s on. The rest of the 32v system is still in place for the engine and gen starters and other accessories.

I like this setup A LOT because everything is isolated from starting the engines and generator. In all my prior boats the house bank was partially shared with either the generator start or with an engine bank, with a parallel switch if you forgot and drained it. Every time you’d start that engine the entire nav suite would have to reboot, anything running off the inverter would turn off and have to reboot, it was more irritating than you’d think it would be.

As to the question I do not plan on changing any more of the 32v system. I would not have changed all the interior lighting to 12v, I try to operate on the KISS principle, but I’m not spending the money to put it back because it works fine. The only part I’ve had any difficulty obtaining was the spotlight bulb, but BulbsRUS started making them again in the correct 32v 200w configuration, so that’s a non issue.

Almost everything else on the 32v system is available on the shelf at west marine, or worst case a day or two lead time. 32v chargers, bilge pumps, etc., are all available. People have been saying you aren’t going to be able to get any parts and bulbs for 32v systems for at least 20 years that I can remember. But here we are and doomsday still hasn’t happened.

As to whether I would be in for a group buy on batteries, let me check the dates and condition of mine. The boat is new to me. If they’re close to new I’m not messing with them, but if they’re long in the tooth sure I’d be up for it.
 

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