220v Question

[kingsley_oasis]

Here is my setup from factory

 

[kingsley_oasis]

View attachment 40731View attachment 40732 Here is my setup from factory

Sorry could not get drawing to rotate correct way up.
My combined washer dryer is 120V. Looks to be original wiring. 4 core from dist board #3 in STB ER.
Terminated in 120v 20A receptacle behind washer dryer. The spare unused hot has a wire nut with tape on it.
Hope this helps I believe my 61 is basically a 56 with cockpit.

 

[Boatsb]

The question is what leads to the main supply if there is a voltage imbalance.

The feeds (L1,L2,GND and N) are after the transformer and load balances.

 

[Captain Ralph]

Can you offer pictures on the washer/dryer outlets?
And a schematic of what you modified?

 

[Chasemmc]

Tested both legs to neutral and got 118.7 vlts on both sides. My schematic is the same as Ray's. My panel (service 3) has two 30amp breakers. I will send pix this evening as files are too large to upload. I wired original wires with ring connectors to a 4 prong 220 v receptical, to use as a (sort of) sub panel. From one leg wired 10g marine tinned, to a separate 120v 20a receptical, running hot through a 20a breaker mounted in its own box above washer/dryer where cubby storage box was formerly.

 

[Boatsb]

2 30 amp breakers for the panel or to the washer dryer?

That's a lot of power to the washer dryer. Also I'd not pull a leg off the plug for a 120 line. It's not the right way. I'd run a proper line off another breaker.

Remember.

120 volt breakers are single.
240 volt breakers are 2 pole so if one trips the other follows.

Mains also include the 2 legs and the neutral so it's a 3 pole.

These old boats were wired kind of wonky. If your rewiring bring it up to current standards.

 

[Captain Ralph]

Tested both legs to neutral and got 118.7 vlts on both sides. My schematic is the same as Ray's. My panel (service 3) has two 30amp breakers. I will send pix this evening as files are too large to upload. I wired original wires with ring connectors to a 4 prong 220 v receptical, to use as a (sort of) sub panel. From one leg wired 10g marine tinned, to a separate 120v 20a receptical, running hot through a 20a breaker mounted in its own box above washer/dryer where cubby storage box was formerly.

I understand your installation now.
If the wires to the main panel are of correct spec per the max current the washer AND dryer draw, then this may be considered safe but I do not believe it adheres to any codes.

 

[Pascal]

If using the two breakers to power a 220 v appliance I believe there should be a tie bar between the two breakers.

I wouldn’t have wired it that way but I can see pulling a new 120v line from the electrical panel May be difficult.

 

[jim rosenthal]

Frankly, I think on something such as this, I'd get an electrician on board. Who knew the code and was familiar with working on boats.

 

[Avenger]

If using the two breakers to power a 220 v appliance I believe there should be a tie bar between the two breakers.

I wouldn’t have wired it that way but I can see pulling a new 120v line from the electrical panel May be difficult.

The tie bar on a double pole breaker is mostly there for operator convenience. In the event of a single leg overload, both breakers will trip, even without a tie bar.

 

[Boatsb]

Derek you need to make sure they use a 2 pole breaker.

Many wont know to get a double pole breaker unless told to.

 

[Captain Ralph]

The tie bar on a double pole breaker is mostly there for operator convenience. In the event of a single leg overload, both breakers will trip, even without a tie bar.

But your missing, one of the 240Vac legs has been further loaded with the washer load. A single leg would trip. I'm still concerned of that wire (red or black) is current overloaded. It would be more correct with a tie pin and a real sub panel box made up.

 

[Chasemmc]

Well i could run a separate cable to the breaker box as the headliner is coming down and i could run it overhead. Running it through the original chase is a non starter. The conduit is packed. Sounds like that is the safest route. 12g or 10g?

 

[Chasemmc]

PS the twin 30a breakers are pinned.

 

[Captain Ralph]

Well i could run a separate cable to the breaker box as the headliner is coming down and i could run it overhead. Running it through the original chase is a non starter. The conduit is packed. Sounds like that is the safest route. 12g or 10g?

Good plan. When in doubt, The larger wire (10-2 tinned with ground) would be great.
While the headliner is down, consider extra conduit for Vac and other thingies.

 

[Avenger]

But your missing, one of the 240Vac legs has been further loaded with the washer load. A single leg would trip. I'm still concerned of that wire (red or black) is current overloaded. It would be more correct with a tie pin and a real sub panel box made up.

I was only referring to the function of the dual-pole breaker vs. the tie bar. No way I'm trying to diagnose the rest of this mess by remote control. I'll leave that to the experts.