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1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 refit

  • Thread starter Thread starter q240z
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34Hatt said:
Are you doing all your walls then the spray foam ?

Looking Good.

Dan
Click to expand...
Thanks, Dan.

Because I'm attaching all walls by gluing and screwing (or bolting) on the top, bottom, and sides (something they do over at Weaver Boatworks), I'm installing all of the major walls that tie into the ceiling before I foam. I've heard that digging out the foam can be a major pain, and it's just easier to install the walls first, tape them off, and foam. That also ensures that no cavities remain at the top of the panels, where condensation might collect and do evil things unseen.
 
60 degrees last weekend, then it snowed on Friday...old man winter's got a serious G.I. Joe kung fu grip on this year. But it was warm in the boat once I fired up the kero bazooka heater, and I got the African mahogany molding made that I'll use on the butt joint between panels for one of the aft stateroom walls. This is the kind of progress I like!

1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Making Molding

Cheers
Q

dscf6567.jpg
 
It does look good, and is a pleasure seeing it all come together so well. The details of your work as set out in your links is all the more impressive. Thanks for taking the time to share.
 
Agreed. Its not tedious for us. I know a number of us look forward to your posts. I cant believe your ambition! Carry on and keep on posting!
 
Not tedious at all, but you better make sure you don't trap anything back there that's too big to move out.......

What are you planning for a headliner in the aft stateroom? Just curious.
 
Thanks guys!

Jim, you'll get a kick out of the article after the next.

For the headliner, at this point I'm planning on using OE-style perforated vinyl.
 
I got the last of the walls finally installed, and almost had a major disaster along the way. Jim, there's a hint peeking at you in the pic below. What's the point in having the best laid plans if you forget about 'em on game day???

Ah well...it all worked out fine in the end.

1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Installing The Last Aft Stateroom Walls

Cheers,
Q

dscf6609.jpg
 
I KNEW that was going to happen. I am also glad you caught it before the glue set up. You would have been well and truly up the creek if you hadn't thought about it when you did.....

Aft stateroom looks great. You are making some serious progress here.

Incidentally, you should install Ultra Pump Switches, the only thing nice enough for a boat like that. LOL
 
Thanks, Jim!

No way I'd use the Ultra pumps or any other one that puts voltage near and potentially in the bilge water. You had an aluminum boat...didn't you use the air operated ones, like Groco AS-100?
 
Actually, the Ultra switches ought to be safe for an aluminum boat, I think. They are completely sealed if installed per their directions, and I think the possibility of current leakage is extremely remote. I would be comfortable using one in an aluminum boat. But it's been a long time since I owned one :)

My plan is to get a ride on yours once it's done.
 
This thing would get done faster if you came and helped out more often! :p

I don't remember if it's Rule #3 or #5, but absolutely no electricity near the hull is one of the two. The air switches work great, with no moving parts or electricity anywhere near bilge water or the hull.

In other news, I wrote a follow-up article about the insulation I'll be using. That might sound like another random topic jump, but there's actually a method to the madness.

The short-term plan is to keep working toward splashing the boat this fall and bringing it to my home port. I could get a lot of things done in the two hours I waste every time I commute to and from the Roamer. It was too cold over the winter to even think about handling the engines and finishing up their install. Instead, I've been focusing on getting major structural work done, like installing the aft stateroom walls. I'm also working on sealing up the exterior, which will include installing the bow hatch and windlass on the foredeck. I also need to install the portholes in the V-berth and aft stateroom. But before I can install the windows, I have to install the interior wall panels around all of the porthole openings. And before I install those interior panels, I need to get spray foam insulation on the hull and underside of the decks, and then I'm putting polyester nonwoven fabric insulation on the back-side of every wooden interior panel. So...

1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Insulation follow-up

Cheers,
Q

dscf6469.jpg
 
jim rosenthal said:
Actually, the Ultra switches ought to be safe for an aluminum boat, I think. They are completely sealed if installed per their directions, and I think the possibility of current leakage is extremely remote. I would be comfortable using one in an aluminum boat. But it's been a long time since I owned one :)

My plan is to get a ride on yours once it's done.
Click to expand...

Not sure I get this? Won't any switch, ultra or otherwise, by definition have the same wire/voltage.

I have six ultra switches aboard in sumps and bilges and am completely impressed with their quality. I bought one extra to have in parts and it has 6-7 years of dust on it :)
 
sandspur1966 said:
Not sure I get this? Won't any switch, ultra or otherwise, by definition have the same wire/voltage.
Click to expand...

Yes, they all have the same wire and voltage. The difference is the location of the electrical/moving parts. Most switches, including Ultra, put the switch and electricity near or in the bilge water. The air-actuated switches Chris Craft used on their steel and aluminum hulls only have a plastic bell and hose in the bilge water. The switch is located remotely, on the other end of the hose and far away from the metal hull and bilge water.
 
Hey Shawn, your post showed up twice, so I took the duplicate one out.

Q, I think the Ultra would be safe, but you have to go with what you are comfortable with. I'll come and help you out all you want when I am done with everything here. That ought to be around December.
 
Q, Buffalo Batt is quilt insulation. You're going to have to get a duvet cover for your boat. Finding someone to make that ought to be interesting. LOL
 
q240z said:
Yes, they all have the same wire and voltage. The difference is the location of the electrical/moving parts. Most switches, including Ultra, put the switch and electricity near or in the bilge water. The air-actuated switches Chris Craft used on their steel and aluminum hulls only have a plastic bell and hose in the bilge water. The switch is located remotely, on the other end of the hose and far away from the metal hull and bilge water.
Click to expand...

Gotcha, thanks Jim.
 
Jim R, on your next metal boat you can use whatever bilge switches you want. :p

Yup, the Buffalo Batts are quilt rated. If somebody put the exact same polyester nonwoven fabric through the wringer to get a marine rating, it'd still yield R-3 and have all the same properties as the quilting product, but cost 3x as much. lol
 
I'll do that. Mind you, I have no plans to acquire ANY new boat, so you might be waiting a while. If I am going to get a Roamer, I'll wait to see if you decide to sell this one....all I would have to update would be the bilge pump switches....:)

Agree on the insulation. Anything "marine" automatically triples in cost. But not value.
 
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