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$0.69

  • Thread starter Thread starter oscarvan
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oscarvan

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There's a saying in aviation that checklists are written in blood. I have a checklist on the boat. It's flow is just like it was in the cockpit...... Before Start-After Start-Before Shutdown etc.... It contains items out of the Hatteras manual and my add ons. It is updated regularly. I print it, I laminate it and I use it. Every time.

$0.69 is what I paid for the part missing in the picture below.......

I don't know how long it's been like that. One of the challenges doing checklists in the cockpit was always to not just LOOK but to SEE. Devious simulator instructors would put something out of place and if you said "CHECK" he would stop the proceedings and say....."IS IT?" So I try to LOOK AND SEE, every time. So maybe it just happened, maybe I finally caught it. But the bottom line is that I caught it, and fixed it.
 

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E clips are what, page 183 right below deck-fill cap torque? New Bern, we have a problem.
 
It is amazing how many of these scenes I have tripped over working on customers boats.
Darn cables do seem to stay in place sometimes.
Use to keep a kit of E & hair-pin clips in the van. Better than a washer and twisted paper clip I have done (emergency only) in the past.
 
I thought the technical name for those was Jesus clips, as in JESUS where did that clip go?
 
I thought the technical name for those was Jesus clips, as in JESUS where did that clip go?

As in "Jezus Bolts" of which (according to me and my fellow fixed wing aviators) there are waaaay too many on a helicopter and I always thought it was because of the first word out of the pilot's mouth when one lets go.....

Of course in my case that would make it a F&^K!!!!! bolt.
 
Mine uses cotter pins through a hole. Think this is very reliable. It's one of the small parts with no stress on it. And if the cable is fastened correctly it won't wiggle off ... but i still installed new cotter pins after adjusting the cables that badly needed adjusting. Tightened up several bolts in the process ... bolts that had never been checked by the PO in about 10 years. In fact, after buying this boat last fall, I have checked many bolts and screws throughout the vessel and found that about 80% were loose or partly loose. Many I believe had never been checked in 48 years ... thank God its a Hatteras.
 
BTW, That Juses nut on a rotor requires one heck if a torque multiplier wrench set. The correct and complete sets are very, very, very expensive.
If there is tech that has not lost a rotor and knows the correct service methods in rotor servicing, him & his tools are worth their weight in gold.
 
Any chance u could post your checklist? Know that every boat is different, but its easier to be an editor than an author.
 
BEFORE START

Blinds
Life Vests Out
Engine heat

GENERATOR/BATTERY ROOM

Generator coolant level
Generator oil level
Fuel filter check
Battery switch on
Bilge
Start Switch “Auto”

ENGINE ROOMS

Raw water inlets

Engine coolant levels
Engine oil levels
Emergency air shutdowns open
Throttle and gear cables secure
Fuel filters check
Steering system level and pressure
Battery disconnect
Fuel levels
Fuel manifold
Bilges

AFT STATEROOM

Rudder stuffing boxes
Steering linkage

LOWER HELM

Check Fuel Shutoffs
Navigation
VHF
Lights
Rudder position indicator
Rudder check
Alarm system
32V Charger Off

SETUP FLYBRIDGE

AFTER START

Water discharge
Engine room visual
Engine heat off
Air building
Oil pressure alarm
AIS on

BEFORE SHUTDOWN

Gear oil level

AIS OFF

AFTER SHUTDOWN

Fans if needed
Rudder position indicator
Ignition Off
Engine rooms
32VDC Charger On
Stuffing boxes
Rudders

BEFORE LEAVING

Doors & Windows
Garbage
Breakers: WH/WP/Black tank gauges
Lights/IT
Flag
Sound
Through Hulls
iPad











 
Last edited:
In my long-ago flying days I was taught to have all electronics off before engine start. I have continued this on Fanfare (even for the generator) because the momentary starter voltage drop causes some of my electronics to recycle which may not be too good for them. With most gear duplicated between the lower station and the flybridge this gives me about five minutes of engine time before departure, enough for a final check of temperatures, voltage and pressures. I have caught a few problems just in time using these procedures.
 
My electronics are on their own 12V system, so that's one issue I don't have.
 

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