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Raritan Atlantes Head

Maynard Rupp

Legendary Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2005
Messages
2,566
Status
  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
36' CONVERTIBLE-Series II (1983 - 1987)
I just spent all day installing our new Raritan Atlantes Freedom head.
why do those 11/2' sewer hoses have to be so stiff? What a royal PITA. I had to work all that stuff into the area under the floor of our 16" wide closet. Needless to say, my shoulders are wider than the closet, or at least they used to be.I would like more and larger closets, but I sure am glad that our 36C has only one head. These things cost a full boat buck each, but are really nice. Our boat had the factory installed electric Groco. The most obvious thing this head did was make noise. It had real problems digesting the material that it is supposed to digest, (if you know what I mean). I put a master rebuild kit in the thing last year also, still would not do the job.Our new head is super quiet and works great, no sh**. If you are looking for a new head, this one is a great choice. I knew Sky couldn't be wrong, so I took his advice. Thanks, Sky.:)
 
Glad you like it Maynard. Not only are those new hoses had to bend, they're hard to get onto the fittings as well. Hopefully this is one job that we'll never have to do again.
 
Its been a few years, on a previous boat since I wrestled with those hoses. I found that a little persuasion from a heat gun made a big difference in getting them on the fittings. Once they were on and cooled down, they were like welded on. Almost seemed like they didn't even need the hose clamps! Current boat, 2 head install was done by a pro. Yeah, I paid the BIG bucks for it.

Every time I think about wanting a bigger boat, I recall all of the expensive "stuff" that is done on this boat and almost always needs to be done on the next one.

Congrats Maynard on completing a difficult task!
 
Boy that's the truth. My hose attaches to the thru hull valve far below the master berth on my 43. so all work had to be done at arms length. Silicon spray didn't seem to help much, but dish soap did. Nonetheless, it also took two of us to get the hose onto the fittings.

I just finished dry fitting all the teak and holly plywood, along with the teak trim I fabricated. It's in my basement now for varnish, and hopefully will be in next weekend. The Atlantes will attach to the final piece of teak and holly plywood before installation, and that piece will be screwed down to the framing I built.

Anybody need a WTO Groco original?
 
I have had my Atlantes for almost 7 years and have been very happy with it also. Did not like the switch on the side so I updated it to the push button panel.

For the hose's just like Eric said a little heat from a heat gun is all it takes. When removing you will need to put a little cut in it.
 
Maynard: I've pretty much decided on replacing my Groco with an Atlantes. Probably decide after checking with Raritan and Tecma at the Miami Boat Show. What model Atlantes did you use, i.e. fresh v. raw water, and if the latter, self-contained or remote pump? Thanks.
Mike Ford
 
hey neighbor... good job...

was behind you in the fairway saturday morning, on my way to the fuel dock, good to see Unity out on the water.

stop by for a beer when you get a chance ! or maybe i will to admire your new head :-)
 
Sorry for the double post.
 
Last edited:
Those stiff hoses suck.

Here's what I usually do. Get some bearing grease or vasoline or something of the like. Boil some water (or put it in microwave). Put a little lube on the hose and stick the end of the hose in the water and get it good and hot/soft.

Pull it out of the water and QUICKLY shove it on the fitting. Just push and wiggle and it usually slowly inches it way on there.
 
Maynard: I've pretty much decided on replacing my Groco with an Atlantes. Probably decide after checking with Raritan and Tecma at the Miami Boat Show. What model Atlantes did you use, i.e. fresh v. raw water, and if the latter, self-contained or remote pump? Thanks.
Mike Ford
We selected the fresh water model with the remote keypad. I think it is a 9F 12 volt. The pad works great and we find that the water saver flush is all that is needed. We decided on the fresh water over sea water model for simplicity and quiet. We live on the boat in winter and are rarely on the hook overnight, so using up our fresh water wasn't a big concern. If you want to keep water in the bowl you need a vented loop on the sewer line. You also need a vented loop between the water intake solenoid and the toilet. With the tight quarters for our installation, putting a vented loop on that 11/2" PVC hose was a real challange. I am glad we did though, it works great.:)
 
I've been looking at the Atlantis as well. Don't they offer an internal vented loop as an option? Has anyone gotten the elongated bowl? That is a very nice option on the older Groco and Raritan heads.
 
I've been looking at the Atlantis as well. Don't they offer an internal vented loop as an option? Has anyone gotten the elongated bowl? That is a very nice option on the older Groco and Raritan heads.
They sure do. They want $232.00 for that option which just amounts to a circle of tubing in the back of the toilet. I found a PDF with pictures by googeling the Raritan Part # which can be found on the PDF available on their site. I paid $20.00 for a forespar loop. I wanted the room in the back of the toilet for a wall mounted terminal strip and some slack in the inlet hose. If you need to service this toilet, you will need to remove it. I made it so I can pull the toilet forward to remove the wiring and hoses. All can be done from right where the toilet sits. Remember the poor mechanic during your install. That guy will probably be you.:)
 
I just got the elongated bowl. Very nice. I can't wait. Seriously, though, I did not go with the ventilated loop, as the Raritan tech told me that I would have to install a hose from its vent to a new thru-hull, or risk smelling it.

For my istallation, I had to raise the platform that the head sits on by about 3", due to the toilet's 14" base width, and location relative to the curve of the hull just aft of the vberth on the stbd side. I was replacing the floors throughout with teak and holly anyway, so I mounted it on a base of teak and holly backed by 3/4 marine ply, and thru-bolted it to that piece. That piece is screwed with 2-1/2" screws to the white oak framing that I used to raise the platform. The back of the base of the toilet is flush (no pun intended) with the bulkhead between the vberth and the head.

By leaving a service loop on the supply line, waste line, and wiring, I can just remove a piece of trim and 4 screws, and lift the entire toilet and base up and away from the bulkhead.

The plumbing on mine runs forward first, under the stbd vberth before looping back to the thruhull under the master berth. On my supply line behind the toilet, I added a 1" tee with its own shutoff, so I can easily winterize, or run white vinegar thru the system by opening that shutoff and closing the supply line thru-hull. I should also be able to route this to supply fresh water rather than raw water in the future if I ever want to do so.
 
The vented loop sucks, so there should never be a smell coming out of the vent hole. Inside ours is a little duckbill which allows air in but prevents it from coming out. There is also a vented loop on the inlet water. If anything could come out of that you would have a flood. Ours has no odors at all and we like the small amount of water in the bowl.:)
 
I was not impressed with the Raritan Technician. I guess this is just another example of why.
 
I was not impressed with the Raritan Technician. I guess this is just another example of why.

I called Raritan for some help with one toilet of the three that would backflow some waste back into it after the initial install. I was not impressed with their response. I knew that the duckbill valve was bad from the start but instead of sending me a new one, they just wanted to blame my installation. It took several calls to resolve this, but we have not had any problems now for 2 seasons since. They may not be too customer friendly, but I sure do like the product and the way it functions.
 
I called Raritan for some help with one toilet of the three that would backflow some waste back into it after the initial install. I was not impressed with their response. I knew that the duckbill valve was bad from the start but instead of sending me a new one, they just wanted to blame my installation. It took several calls to resolve this, but we have not had any problems now for 2 seasons since. They may not be too customer friendly, but I sure do like the product and the way it functions.
I called their tech about their internal vented loop. He was very helpful. I asked why their internal loop was so costly. He had no idea, but said an external loop works as well and is much cheaper. I am worried about the statement about smell that I read on this thread. Sky, do you have vented loops? Do you have yours set for retaining water in the bowl? Do you use "water saver flush", or "normal"?
 
I dont have the vented loop. Water in and water out. The only thing I did install was a check valve in the line from the FW tank. I dont use chemicals, just 2 1-1/2" hull side vents for the holding tank. ZERO odor. I usually use the long flush cycle which keeps water in the bowl.
I feel as though the jabsco pumps in the unit are enough to keep critters at bay... ws
 
I called their tech about their internal vented loop. He was very helpful. I asked why their internal loop was so costly. He had no idea, but said an external loop works as well and is much cheaper. I am worried about the statement about smell that I read on this thread. Sky, do you have vented loops? Do you have yours set for retaining water in the bowl? Do you use "water saver flush", or "normal"?


Maynard,
Yes, I have vented loops that are mounted in the ER spaces. We have noticed no smell whatsoever. I do retain water in the bowls and we usually use the water saver flush.
 
My concern about having any smell whatsoever is due to the fact that the loop would have to be installed in the compartment under the stbd v-berth bunk on my boat.
 

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