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Question re Shore Power

  • Thread starter Thread starter GJD
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GJD

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Jun 30, 2007
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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
53' MOTOR YACHT (1969 - 1988)
What is the 'ideal' shore power service for us on our 53my?

One 50 amp cable? Two 50 amp cables?

Getting rigged up on the new boat and this is one of our first projects.

Thanks!
 
This is an appropriate concern given the usual low voltage at many marinas...you'll want to make sure you have adequate voltage or you'll end up damaging airconditioners, refrigerators, and ice makers over time. One 50 amp 125/250 volt shorepower cord (4 pin connector) should normally carry all the power you'll need, provided you have a 240 volt supply. Because the cost of wiring for 240 is prohibitive for many marinas, they use smaller gage wire designed to carry something less, about 220 volts. However the actual voltage delivered may be something even less, say 190 to 205! While most older components will run on this power, damage will occur below about 208 volts. Newer components often have built in drop outs if the voltage goes below a certain value for a few minutes to protect the component.)

If this is the case in your marina, you'll need to buy a smaller transformer for your slip, pluged into the dockside 50A shorepower recepticle, capable of boosting the voltage to 240 volts. Your shorepower cord can then be connected directly to the transformer. Note that amperage will drop as the voltage is increased, but again you'll seldom need all 50 amps simultaneously.

There is one other option, more expensive, and that is to upgrade the boats internal isolation transformers (located behind the generator) with a kit from Wards Electric. The Hatteras technical support line can give you Ward's number in Florida, and provide you more details. This isolation "boost" kit modifies your isolation transformers and will allow you to plug into low power at most any marina, and the boat will then produce it's own 240 volt supply from the 220 marina supply. There is some wiring to be done with the kit....I haven't any personal experience with this, but maybe someone here has and can speak to it...
 
"Because the cost of wiring for 240 is prohibitive for many marinas, they use smaller gage wire designed to carry something less, about 220 volts."

I believe the savings come from installing "fewer" wires, not smaller guage wire. Amps determine the wire guage, voltage determines insulation properties.

Pete
 
Greg,

Your "newer" 53 has the same wiring setup as mine. Here is what I do. I use 2-50a cords whenever possible. I select one for the air conditioning panel (panel 2) and the other for panels 1 and 3. This makes use of both isolation transformers and lessens the total load that would otherwise be put through just one transformer. If the dock does not provide access to 2-50a plugs, then I either run one or try to run the second cord using a smart Y and connecting it to 2-30a plugs.

The great thing about running 2 50a cords is that you never have to be concerned about how much you are drawing. You don't even have to think about it. You'll have all of the power that you'll ever need.
 
Last edited:
Sky,

You'te lucky to have access to two 30A or two 50A recepticles...it's just "one per customer" here. If you have two, you're living in power heaven!

Dave
 
Pete,

You are correct; there is one less wire. The electrical engineer we had look at our problem also stated that the wire gauge was too small in our case for a 240 volt application....not sure what he was referring to...code or insulation...

Dave
 
Pete,

You are correct; there is one less wire. The electrical engineer we had look at our problem also stated that the wire gauge was too small in our case for a 240 volt application....not sure what he was referring to...code or insulation...

Dave

silly engineers...
 
We have no issues running 1 50A service for our 60C.
 
When you talk about a "smart" Y what do you mean, I know about a Y adapter but what is a "smart" Y?
 
A smart Y has a box attached that insures that you are plugged into opposite phases. Each 30a socket must be on the opposing phase so that you can get 240v when you hook to them.
 
A smart Y has a box attached that insures that you are plugged into opposite phases. Each 30a socket must be on the opposing phase so that you can get 240v when you hook to them.


DING DING DING>..... Bob tellem' what he's won....



A NEW CAR! A 1977 Mustang II!!!
 
I'll take the Mustang, Thanks :)
 
Just a clarification. If you encounter a marina that is wired with 120/208 volt power, as many are these days, using a "Smart Y" adapter plugged into two 120volt/30 amp outlets will provide 208 volts, not 240. As has been discussed, the 208 is a phasing problem, not low voltage. The only solution is some sort of boost transformer.

Pete
 
Anyone have any specifics on a "Boost Transformer" that I can plug into the pedestal? What .... from Where ..... how much??

ByronS
 
Ward Marine in Fort Lauderdale offers a portable boost autotransformer packaged in a plastic box that you attach to shore power and then plugs into your boat. It provides about an 10% boost so 208 becomes 229. Your boat will be extremely happy with 229 volts. Round numbers, cost = $1,000.

Please note that this autotransformer and the rewire of the Hatteras isolation transformer will solve the problem of 208 volts, with a properly wired marina. If you experience shore power voltage that varies significantly depending on the load, such as 240 when no one is around but 205 or 210 on the hot weekends, that is a different problem not solved with these solutions. A drop of up to 5 or 6 volts due to load is to be expected in a well wired marina and is not a problem with these solutions. Bottom line is you want at least 220 volts, at all times, available to your boat equiptment.

Pete
 
You can make your own portable buc boost the tramsformer is around $300 then a box and conectors. Charles marine has a Smart Boost that you can leave on all the time if the voltage goes below 215 it boosts if under 215 it doesn't. Most transformers in our boats can be fitted with a selctor switch for boost or no boost it just involes a rotary switch and some wiring (best Solution) I just went thru this with our boat.

Brian
 
Pete knows his stuff, listen to him :)

Also, if you have a voltage drop during peak demand at your marina and then voltage goes up when nobody is around, do'nt worry too much about going a little high. The nominal voltage for most stuff is actually 240. I know 240 is what is feeding my house right now.

High voltage (10-20%) won't hurt induction motors, they'll actually run cooler....of course this is assuming the lacquer and insulation in the motor isn't broken down. Most electronics have their own power supplies that clean up crappy power for them.
 
I have a single 50 Amp service on my boat but the marina has two (2) 30 amp service on my slip. I thought that by using a Y I would be okay, but we keep popping the one circuit breaker on the dock because of drawing too much amperage. If we go over 30 amps it pops, is there any device I could get that will assure 50 amps of power from these two (2) circuits.
 
No.

You can get voltage boosters, but not amperage boosters. You should be able to look at which 110 leg is pulling the higher amperage. If this is happening in your permanent slip, then the only way you can overcome this problem would be to move some of the load to the lower amperage AC leg. This is not something necessarily easy to do, unless you are well versed in electrical. If you cannot move to where you can get higher amp service, then this may be your only choice. Hatteras tends to overload one leg, since a lot of marinas only have 110 service (30 amp). If it were me I would look a things I can plug in on the lower amp leg and reduce the load on the primary leg without having to rewire anything. Battery chargers are a big power draw and should be easy to plug in somewhere else. I would start there and see if it helps solve the problem.
 

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