Masthead Anchor Light - 48 Yachtfish

[drewread]

Welcome to the dilemma of the day, scene 54. Thankfully a relatively minor one as things go.
I went through my running and anchor lights today and thankfully all of the wiring and switches seem to be in working order.
The only issue is that the masthead anchor light's socket is not held in place. This means the bulb just pushes right through and you can't install it.
Doea anyone have any experience as to how the socket should be held in place in this lamp housing?

Thanks!

 

[Fanfare]

I believe Perko made these. It is a 360* white light. You need a new socket which will screw into the fitting. Hopefully the wire is accessible and has not fallen into the hole. Originally there was a clear glass dome, a screw down bevel and a waterproof gasket to seal. I checked the Perko catalog but did not see an exact replacement. You might check Perko #01128 or #0309B as these might be added on top of your existing fixture which would preserve the round top of the masthead flag hoist. A little filing to smooth the hoist and remove its sharp corner will prolong the life of your flag halyard. An LED bulb will save the batteries especially if you are one of the sailors who forget to turn the light off in the morning,

 

[drewread]

I believe Perko made these. It is a 360* white light. You need a new socket which will screw into the fitting. Hopefully the wire is accessible and has not fallen into the hole. Originally there was a clear glass dome, a screw down bevel and a waterproof gasket to seal. I checked the Perko catalog but did not see an exact replacement. You might check Perko #01128 or #0309B as these might be added on top of your existing fixture which would preserve the round top of the masthead flag hoist. A little filing to smooth the hoist and remove its sharp corner will prolong the life of your flag halyard. An LED bulb will save the batteries especially if you are one of the sailors who forget to turn the light off in the morning,

Thanks, I do have the original glass and screw down "nut", sorry didn't have a photo of that. I'm just interested in how the socket should be fastened in so it doesn't fall through the hole.
I'm considering 3D printing a plastic washer that installs between that metal housing and the mast that will hold the existing socket up into place, but ideally a proper fitting would be best.
Thankfully the wires are all there (and working!), the PO did put a LED bulb in that one.

 

[drewread]

The Perko 0052 socket is what the socket looks like, as you can see - there is no fastening mechanism - unless I'm missing something.

 

[Fanfare]

Somebody must make a fitting which could be firmly affixed. I hate this type of two pronged socket. Sometimes have to press down so hard against its spring pressure to seat both contacts that I fear the glass will shatter and cut my hand. I have an LED bulb in mine but don't remember how I found it. I would start by finding an LED bulb and then match the socket.

Printing a plastic washer might work. I would feel better if all were firmly attached. Then I would never have to worry about it again. Of course we anchor out a lot and need a durable light. A couple years ago at the Stock Island marina in Key West the USCG inspected a number of boats. Despite being docked several were cited as having an inoperable anchor light.

 

[Sadey]

I guess one is being delivered today didn't work as an excuse.

 

[drburke]

,,, I have an LED bulb in mine but don't remember how I found it. I would start by finding an LED bulb and then match the socket.

....A couple years ago at the Stock Island marina in Key West the USCG inspected a number of boats. Despite being docked several were cited as having an inoperable anchor light.

To expand on what Jim said, you should buy the LED bulb from Dr LED who actually have theirs certified by the USCG unlike most random Chinese ones. There was a contentious manslaughter lawsuit a few years back centering upon the illumination of nav lights--hate to be caught out for such a simple thing.

 

[drewread]

To expand on what Jim said, you should buy the LED bulb from Dr LED who actually have theirs certified by the USCG unlike most random Chinese ones. There was a contentious manslaughter lawsuit a few years back centering upon the illumination of nav lights--hate to be caught out for such a simple thing.

Yes, I have read about LED based navigation light conversions and their legal ramifications. The fact that I work in the lighting industry and sell LED products gives me some knowledge on the matter. It is all quite interesting.

What I do need to figure out though is which bulbs I should actually be using in any of my navigation lights - irrespective of whether or not they are LED or incandescent. There is a smattering of different bulbs around the vessel, of which I'm sure that these navigation lights were at some point certified to use a specific bulb of a specific intensity in order to meet their approvals.

I'm sure the POs have changed these more than once. I have #68s, 9012V6CP, random LED bulbs and so on installed and as spares on the vessel.

Does anyone know what the original bulb would be for a 1972 48 Yachtfish's nav and anchor lights? I'll try and grab some photos of them to help with identification when I am back at the vessel in a few days.

 

[SKYCHENEY]

The bulbs should all be listed in your original Hatteras owners manual

Yes, I have read about LED based navigation light conversions and their legal ramifications. The fact that I work in the lighting industry and sell LED products gives me some knowledge on the matter. It is all quite interesting.

What I do need to figure out though is which bulbs I should actually be using in any of my navigation lights - irrespective of whether or not they are LED or incandescent. There is a smattering of different bulbs around the vessel, of which I'm sure that these navigation lights were at some point certified to use a specific bulb of a specific intensity in order to meet their approvals.

I'm sure the POs have changed these more than once. I have #68s, 9012V6CP, random LED bulbs and so on installed and as spares on the vessel.

Does anyone know what the original bulb would be for a 1972 48 Yachtfish's nav and anchor lights? I'll try and grab some photos of them to help with identification when I am back at the vessel in a few days.

 

[drewread]

Quick update now that I think I have a solution to the physical issue of the socket pushing back through.

I have made some stackable PETG washers that will slide over the wire and should act as a stopper for the socket. if I recall correctly the socket is about the same depth as the top of the bulb housing, so the right number of these washers between the mast itself and the backing of the fixture housing should hold the bulb socket up into place.



I'll add more photos once I get back to the boat and have it fully assembled.

 

[drewread]

The bulbs should all be listed in your original Hatteras owners manual

Hah.. That is definitely long gone.

The manual I managed to get from Hatteras didn't have any of those specific details.

 

[brettportzer]

I thought maybe I’d have more info for you if I looked at my light, but, not really. I did however get a shot if the numbers on the bulb that I also need to replace…

 

[dar636]

Insert the perko receptacle and then drill a small hole thru the aluminum mast into the recptacle and use a #6 screw to hold them together. Should be similar at the base too. I used a LED bulb to replace the incandesent.

 

[drewread]

Insert the perko receptacle and then drill a small hole thru the aluminum mast into the recptacle and use a #6 screw to hold them together. Should be similar at the base too. I used a LED bulb to replace the incandesent.

Aside from the fact that the fixture's aluminum housing is far too thick for a #6 screw to penetrate, I think it is inadvisable to use a metal screw in a thin walled tin spring loaded electrical socket.

I'm confident that my electrically isolating plastic washer will hold the socket up in place within the housing and stop it from being pushed down into the masthead. The fact that it will also probably allow me to pull the socket out with the bulb that may get stuck in the socket is and added advantage for bulb removal.

Will report once finished.

 

[drewread]

I can report that my PETG spacers worked perfectly. I packed in about 3/8" worth of them between the back of the fixture housing and the mast top.

They hold up the socket in the hole perfectly.

Added bonus is that I can pull out the whole socket by the bulb and reseat it if necessary.