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Copper Bonding strip?

  • Thread starter Thread starter rustybucket
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rustybucket

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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
52' CONVERTIBLE (1983 - 1990)
Was cutting a hole out in my port cabin engine room bulkhead today to add a hatch to better access the outboard side of the port engine. Got the hole cut but there is an approx 3" copper strip spanning the hole. Not sure if this is for bonding or something to do with the old single side band system?

This is on the bulkhead forward side of engine room about 6" from the ceiling of the engine room. It is sandwiched between plywood and insulation.

Either way it has to be cut to install the hatch, should I be concerned with re-routing and repairing the strip? Or can I just leave the dead ends?
 
Bonding strip. I replaced all of mines with 4awg green wires
 
Well that was a lot of help.

On most hatts the copper strip running down the stringers is bonding. The higher up one that .ay go to the bridge is SSB counterpoise. Either way it can't hurt to re route it and re connect it to the system.

Bonding has become more of an issue as time and corrosion inhibit the connection. We do replace many wires on the older boats and have run copper alongside the copper strap too.
 
That bonding strap needs to be re-routed. I had to do that to two of mine during the repower. I bought more copper strapping of the same size and thickness and soldered and screwed and soldered the joints just like Hatteras did originally. That's the way to do it right. I may have some of it left somewhere. I could look for it if decide to go that way.
 
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The copper bonding strip on my vessel is 3/4" wide, and is visible along the walls in the engine room as well as the generator room. I also have a much wider copper strip approx 2 to 3 inches that is visible on the flybridge, and is attached to a plate marked RF. I believe this was part of a SSB antenna system. I would think you would see your bonding strips on your engine room walls or down around your bilge pumps. You can compare the actual bonding strip size to the copper strip you have uncovered and determine what it is.


Caesars Ghost
1980 58YF #472
 
Pascal said:
Bonding strip. I replaced all of mines with 4awg green wires
Click to expand...

This is fine for normal bonding, but not for any high frequency applications.
 
sparky66 said:
This is fine for normal bonding, but not for any high frequency applications.
Click to expand...

Every recent built I ve run uses marine wire for all bonding, with terminal blocks where needed. I bet hatteras stopped using these copper strips years ago. SSB is different.
 
I have this bonding strip running all through my boat as well only it is approx 3"-4" wide. Shouldn't this strip be attached to a zinc somewhere? I can't find a single zinc on my boat other than for the engines, rudders, shafts and generators. I'm used to seeing a big rectangular one on the transom.
 
adendis said:
I have this bonding strip running all through my boat as well only it is approx 3"-4" wide. Shouldn't this strip be attached to a zinc somewhere? I can't find a single zinc on my boat other than for the engines, rudders, shafts and generators. I'm used to seeing a big rectangular one on the transom.
Click to expand...

You don't need any other zinc. Hatteras relied on the running gear zincs for most 80's boats.
 
Anybody know a source for the copper strips? Also I read somewhere a while back that you should tap the strip instead of using self tapping screws to connect your wires to the copper.
 
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Measure them and just search for the size you need. There are many sizes available.
 
McMaster-Carr has copper strapping in most any thickness or width you might need. There service is second to none, no offense to Sam’s
 
Beachcomber said:
McMaster-Carr has copper strapping in most any thickness or width you might need. There service is second to none, no offense to Sam’s
Click to expand...

Two catalogs that I have in easy reach are my McMaster-Carr and Grainger.
 
1/8" is going to be too thick to bend
 
Thanks for the links. 1/16" is a bit over $5 per foot for a 6 foot section. That's much cheaper than $20/lf for the 1/8" too
 
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