Sam's is your source for Hatteras and Cabo Yacht parts.

Enter a part description OR part number to search the Hatteras/Cabo parts catalog:

Email Sam's or call 1-800-678-9230 to order parts.

Engine oil pre-lube / pre-oiler system? Any one using these?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Bob Quinn
  • Start date Start date
  • Replies Replies 18
  • Views Views 4,843

Bob Quinn

Legendary Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2020
Messages
1,388
Status
  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
53' MOTOR YACHT (1969 - 1988)
In researching the possibility of pre-oiling the motors before startup to have instant oil pressure,
I found the following.

https://www.flocomponents.com/sln_engine_prelubrication_systems/

Has anyone used anything like this?

Supposedly most like 75 t0 90% of engine wear occurs during cold starts, so wouldn't it make sense to have something like this? Especially with 30 or 40k price tag on DD engine rebuilds?

Just wondering if anyone has used these.
Thanks,
Bob
 
Ever looked over a set of bearings from an old Detroit?
Certainly not pretty, but still there.
In frame rebuilds usually use standard sized bearings and rarely are the cam bearings messed with.

It is the spinning of the crank that sprays/splashes oil up to the pistons and liners. IMO is where most Detroit issues of wear and abuse occurs.
I'm not sure a pre-lube device would really help here.

If you are real concerned, spin the engine with the stop button pressed a few seconds, then release the stop switch to start. This may help get some oil into the galleys before the pistons start applying power to the crankshaft.

The money for a pre-luber could be better spent ensuring the integrity of the fuel system and injectors. Also keeping up with oil changes with quality oil.

For the folk with open check books; Go for it and let us know how much longer your engine last.
 
Last edited:
"For the folk with open check books; Go for it and let us know how much longer your engine last."

That's the funny part. One would possibly never know. It would be a labor of blind faith!

I would think though that something relatively simple could be installed, similar to the simple fuel priming systems people have been installing. There are probably some simple electric oil pumps out there.


 
Last edited:
Wires, plumbing, more stuff on a reliable engine bugs me at times.

The best set up I came across was an accumulator rig.
With a running engine, oil pressure would fill up an accumulator and a manual valve would be closed to hold the pressurized oil.
The next cold start, open the valve, oil flows back into the engine, crank er up and build oil pressure back up, close the valve.

That was on the NOAA ship Heck. Built in 1965/66. Cummins powered with bath-tub transmissions. Also hand pump up hydraulic starters.

Not saying much but that was the only install of a working pre-luber I've ever seen.
I've witnessed a few old Cats with pre-lubers. Non of those worked. and were removed.
 
Last edited:
One more thing to break. In reality most of the time detroits get rebuilt because they were running hot and nobody addressed the cooling system fast enough, or an injector was stuck and nobody fixed it fast enough before washdown happened, stuff like that. Some of the sportfish guys who put 15,000 hours on every few years have to rebuild just because of operating time, but everybody else it's usually from neglect. Not because of not having enough gadgets on the lube oil system.
 
One more thing to break. In reality most of the time detroits get rebuilt because they were running hot and nobody addressed the cooling system fast enough, or an injector was stuck and nobody fixed it fast enough before washdown happened, stuff like that. Some of the sportfish guys who put 15,000 hours on every few years have to rebuild just because of operating time, but everybody else it's usually from neglect. Not because of not having enough gadgets on the lube oil system.
Probably said better with way less typing.
 
Probably said better with way less typing.


Yes, and yes, and I have seen several of the tank / compressed air types, Jeg's sells one. Mostly for when / after rebuilding a motor and use prior to first start up.

What is the consensus on the "hold the stop button" for a few seconds method?
That seems like a simple option provided it isn't a "bad" thing to do?

How long does it really take to pump oil through all the critical areas?

I was watching some videos of people using the tank / compressed air type and it was, I think, more than 20 seconds.

Would holding the stop button create wash down from pumping in fuel?
 
Yes, and yes, and I have seen several of the tank / compressed air types, Jeg's sells one. Mostly for when / after rebuilding a motor and use prior to first start up.

What is the consensus on the "hold the stop button" for a few seconds method?
That seems like a simple option provided it isn't a "bad" thing to do?

How long does it really take to pump oil through all the critical areas?

I was watching some videos of people using the tank / compressed air type and it was, I think, more than 20 seconds.

Would holding the stop button create wash down from pumping in fuel?

If you have a good battery bank, spinning the engine a few seconds hurts nothing.

I have mechanical oil pressure gauges at my lower helm. When you see them come up, there is oil. Maybe 5 spinning seconds when cold. When warm, there not moving, but then, your warm and parts should still be wet of oil.

If your holding the stop button down, that is pulling the governor to no fuel. So, there is no fuel to wash the lungs down (unless you have a bad injector).
 
I reengined in 1993, going from 8V-71 naturals to 6V-92 turbocharged and aftercooled engines on Jack Hargrave's recommendation. I had owned a turbocharged car with instructions to idle two minutes after hard driving to cool the turbo and prevent coking of the turbo bearings. So, for the new engines I installed three sets of Marine Pre-Lubers (TM), for two engines and one generator. These had an electronic module controlling a small motor connected to an ordinary oil pump. Turning the ignition key started the pump, putting out 40 psi in about 5 seconds. Good, but the real reason I used them was when the engines were shut down and the ignition key released a variable timer would circulate oil through the system and the turbocharger. I set mine for six minutes after shut down. Having gone through several hour meters in 29 years I can only estimate my total engine hours, about 3,000, probably half at 1,950 rpm. I have had no running problems with the engines or generator (non-turbo, but I figured I could swap it to an engine if one luber failed). Both engines start at once, 5 seconds of light smoke on starboard, none on port. Never need to add oil!

An unexpected bonus was the ease of changing the oil. Warm the engines, disconnect the oil return line and pump it into an empty 5 gallon can. The manufacturer included a quick-disconnect fitting for each pump for this. My mechanic said to me "You really don't want your main oil line to disconnect without your putting some effort into it." Now I undo three bolts first.

I believe the Pre-Lubers have been a good investment. In the past we would spend weeks anchored out, running the generator constantly. I change its oil weekly and doing so using the Pre-Luber as a pump meant I could get the oil out faster than I could add it back in. I have tried to find the manufacturer from 29 years ago, but no luck. Using its own engine oil means no need to fill some new reservoir and the pre- and post-lube timers still seem good to me. Somebody out there must still make one.
 
Last edited:
I got a quote from PRM Industries out of Pennsylvania. $3,740 to do both motors.
Just fyi. I'm still liking the "crank it over with the stop button pushed" idea better.
These do have the added benefit of also being a nice convenient oil change system as well.
 
My receipts on the Pre-Luber 29 years ago were more like $250 each. Installation extra, but with the new engines going in access was not a problem. The new turbos turned out to be water cooled which I had not known when all of this was planned. I had expected them to have the fireproof high-temperature thermal covers of the earlier 8-71 turbos and to run as hot as my automobile turbo had. Still, at that price I would have added the Pre-Lubers anyway just for the timing elements.
 
You can add a good oil change system with manifold for probably less than that amount.
 
Yes an oil change system is probably less.

I'm thinking if I really wanted to do something like this it could be done for less without all the fancy controls.

Would anyone know what kind of oil pump would do the trick for pre-oiling?

I wouldn't mind if it was something that just had a push button activation in the engine room
were you could just hold it down for 30 seconds then go start the motor.
This could also be used as an oil change pump too with a simple diverter valve with some kind of safety lock. I understand also you would want some kind of one way valve so the engine oil pump doesn't push oil back through and auxiliary pump.

I did find these pumps used for airplane pre-lube systems and back up oil pumps. Looks like the pumps are about $400 to $700 range. I will research more, but if anyone has any other pump suggestions please let me know.
https://infinityaerospace.com/product/other/pre-oiler-and-back-up-engine-oil-pump/
 
Last edited:
Does anyone know how many GPM the Detroit Diesel oil pumps put out and what PSI they should be at when "new"?
 
Your trying to re-invent the wheel...As stated if your worried about your oil's ability to "cling" to vital engine components such as bearing surfaces then simply turn the engine over with the stop button depressed for about 3 seconds.
 
Your trying to re-invent the wheel...As stated if your worried about your oil's ability to "cling" to vital engine components such as bearing surfaces then simply turn the engine over with the stop button depressed for about 3 seconds.

Yes, and I asked for the price on just the pump and it was $1300 or so.... I'll just hold the button LOL.
 
I’ve held the stop button down when turning motors over for years. 3 or 4 seconds and bam the motors start without smoking.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
38,156
Messages
448,741
Members
12,482
Latest member
UnaVida

Latest Posts

Trending content

Back
Top Bottom