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Salon leak-questions about flybridge construction

  • Thread starter Thread starter RJM
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RJM

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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
53' MOTOR YACHT (1969 - 1988)
I believe that I've managed to find all of the leaks dripping into the headliner above the galley stairs, but as I was sealing up the last of them I began to wonder about future leaks. Yes, I will be pulling all of the FB screws that hold the console and re-bedding them with 4200 plus checking for any other possible spots for water to get in. But, my paranoia (justified, I think) about unsealed or future leaks has me wondering if the factory had not anticipated this and had put weep holes somewhere that might be covered over. I would assume that they would be at the lowest points in the brow around the periphery but don't see any. I can't locate any sort of diagrams or pictures of the flybridge construction. Is the brow is hollow? Would adding weep holes be advisable? Any thoughts?
 
Like the main deck, the roof including the brow is balsa cored so there can not be any weep holes. If water gets to the edge of the brow or of the roof it means the core is fully rotted…. That’s why it a critical to find and fix any leaks early. By the time water gets thru the core and comes out on the headliner damage has already started.
 
I guess that I am way too late for finding leaks early! I guess sealing them and any possible future leak areas up will be the best that I can do. The flybridge feels solid everywhere that I can touch so I think that (for the moment) this will have to do for now.
 
Yea. Seal the leaks on the top side and you should be good to go
 
Yea. Seal the leaks on the top side and you should be good to go
iI think that it is always better to seal the topside of an intrusion and if this penetrates the lower side leave the lower unsealed. You may find leaks earlier this way . I have heard that sealants are good for around ten years. Most of our boats are older than that.
 
When I took off the flybridge, I found that some of the replacement gauges up there were installed with no sealant whatsoever...

However, the plywood backing wasn't rotted at all, and I think it is because it wasn't a sandwich up there, it was fiberglass over plywood, and so the water could drain out.
 
When I took off the flybridge, I found that some of the replacement gauges up there were installed with no sealant whatsoever...

However, the plywood backing wasn't rotted at all, and I think it is because it wasn't a sandwich up there, it was fiberglass over plywood, and so the water could drain out.

When I started digging around on mine, I could see there was silicone where the flybridge meets the deck on the inside. I could also see it has given way. I have been pondering the possibility of using an epoxy, i.e. it would probably last forever if done right. The downside would be if anyone wanted to ever remove the flybridge the epoxy would have to be sawed out somehow.

This would prevent water from getting to all the tie down screw holes for the most part. (not saying they shouldn't be re-bedded, just saying it would be one more barrier)
 
Well, careful about using the term silicone.

Hopefully it is not silicone, and is in fact 5200.

About half of the 5200 that was bedding my flybridge had let go.

The other half I had to cut with a saw.

I guess when they saw 5200 is permanent, what they mean is about 50 yrs!

You will find on the forum here that some folks have fiberglassed their flybridges on, in effect permanently (for real) installing them like you are suggesting.
 
Well, careful about using the term silicone.

Hopefully it is not silicone, and is in fact 5200.

About half of the 5200 that was bedding my flybridge had let go.

The other half I had to cut with a saw.

I guess when they saw 5200 is permanent, what they mean is about 50 yrs!

You will find on the forum here that some folks have fiberglassed their flybridges on, in effect permanently (for real) installing them like you are suggesting.

That would be interesting t see how they did that. I wonder if that would be easier than rebeding all the screws. I kind of doubt it, but would be interesting to know how it was done.
 
When I took off the flybridge, I found that some of the replacement gauges up there were installed with no sealant whatsoever...

However, the plywood backing wasn't rotted at all, and I think it is because it wasn't a sandwich up there, it was fiberglass over plywood, and so the water could drain out.

Marine plywood is pretty rot resistant, or at least a little less prone to rot than balsa!
 
That would be interesting t see how they did that. I wonder if that would be easier than rebeding all the screws. I kind of doubt it, but would be interesting to know how it was done.

I think rebedding the screws you are talking about pulling the screw, applying 4200, and putting the screw back.

Repeat x 150.

The other options involve more extensive prep, fiberglass work, and some repainting.

I have a different boat than you guys, however, I fixed up a lot of screw holes and such and have nearly no leaks on my boat now.

So, it can be done and isn't always too bad, but I think nearly every deck penetration is like to leak if it hasn't been redone in 10 or 20 yrs.
 

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