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New Washer/Dryer

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Photolomy

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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
53' MOTOR YACHT (1969 - 1988)
I finally got around to replacing the washer/dryer on the boat. The PO had installed a stacked front loading washer and dryer in 2011, but the dryer didn't work when I got it (broken belt) and the washer didn't work well (busted support bolt). I thought about repairing them but they were an off brand and the work to get them out to repair them was the same as getting them out to replace them, so, to avoid doing this again, I replaced them. I was originally leaning towards a combo unit which would allow us to put shelves above it, but we often have 6 or 8 people aboard and combo units take a long time to do one load. After removing the old units, the thought of not replacing them at all crossed my mind, as there is a LOT of space in that area and my storage needs would have been fulfilled. But carrying three large trash bags of bedding and towels home to wash after every trip had to end.:) I also wanted a vented dryer. If the boat did not already have a vent built in, then a ventless dryer would have definitely been considered, but seeing as there is already a very good vent available, I wanted vented for quicker drying.

We went with a pair of GE units, that were on sale at HD. They are your typical compact versions for an apartment. Each 23.5" wide and 26" deep and 33" tall.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-2-4-cu-ft-High-Efficiency-Stackable-White-Front-Loading-Washing-Machine-with-Steam-ENERGY-STAR-GFW148SSMWW/307634135

https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-4-3-...teel-Basket-ENERGY-STAR-GFD14ESSNWW/308692728

We got them for $800 each about a month ago. The dryer came damaged, so we had to wait for a second one.

As everyone knows by now, the trim of the door from the galley to the crew cabin is less than 23 inches wide, so you can't bring them in this way. The trim is glued and nailed very well. That leaves lowering through the forward hatch, which is a lot easier than it sounds. The hatch is about 26" x 26" and the only difficult disassembly is removing the trim inside. They used sealant to install it and you have to cut that free while prying it loose.

The washer can be somewhat heavy, due to the concrete they use to dampen the spinning drum. However, we came up with a simple solution. We constructed a ramp with two 2x4s and a couple cross members (like a ladder) and leaned that against the hand rail from the dock. We then used a hand winch from harbor freight and pulled the washer right on up. We did the same with the dryer (which is half the weight of the washer). Because of the steep angle of the ramp to the handrail, there is almost no force on the handrail. In fact, during the lift you can easily hold the ramp off the hand rail. Everything balances easily. Once at the top, the person on the dock can lift their end of the ramp and you can lift your end and position the washer on the deck and then the person on the dock comes up and the two of you can lean the washer upright and move it towards the hatch. I did this with my 17 year old son.

https://www.harborfreight.com/manual-strap-winch-95541.html

Then we made a simple gantry with a couple of 2x4s to position over the hatch and used the same hand winch to lower the washer through. That kind of winch is a pain to lower with. As you are lowering, the person below must guide it past the two bunks. There isn't enough room to lower it straight down, but the lifting strap is long enough at that point to allow you to swing the washer past the edges of the bunks to the floor. The same goes with the dryer, which you will place on the washer (not enough room to have both on the floor). We did remove the doors on the washer and dryer to give us an extra inch to play with. Technically, they would clear with the doors left on, but it would be tight, and the doors come off very easily. I also need to switch the dryer door from right to left anyways.

And then you hook things up and brutally inch the pair back into the hole.

All-in-all, the refrigerator was more difficult. I had planned to take pictures but we got so involved with lifting and lowering that I forgot.
 
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A few more details on the procedure...

1. While you have all that space to work in, make sure all of your connections are ready. In our case, the washer plugs into the dryer and the dryer is wired to 240v. So we had a long enough cable so that we could wire the dryer up while it was out of the "hole" (because there is no access to the back of the dryer when it is in the hole). Likewise, two 6 foot water hoses for the hot and cold water to the washer and the drain hose from the washer to the drain hose that goes to the through hull (above the waterline) and the dryer vent duct should be long enough to reach the dryer when it is out of the hole.

2. Position the washer just a few inches into the hole so that you can still squeeze through in front of the washer from the galley to the crew cabin. You can then connect the water hoses and drain.

3. When you lower the dryer through the hatch you will place it on top of the washer. You will have enough room to rotate the dryer to allow you to get to the back side and connect the washer 120v plug, wire the 240v and connect the dryer vent. Another person can hold the front of the dryer up since only the back feet will be on the washer at this stage.

4. Once everything is connected, you can square the dryer up with the washer and attach the two together. I did not use the stacking kit for my units because it connects to the back. I could have rotated the units enough to get it on, but I liked how the previous units were attached. They had used two thin sheets of metal (6" x 6") attached to the sides to tie the two units together.

5. Now you can walk everything back into the hole and replace the trim and door. Before closing everything up I would first do a test load or two of laundry to make sure everything is working.
 
Here is an image of them installed. I also added an LED strip light at the top. I am debating putting the door back (it was already sized for stacking front loaders) or trimming it out and living it open (less doors to open to do laundry).

IMG_1995.webp
 
When's the next time you're going to be in Baltimore to supervise my removal and install:cool::cool::cool:
 
Here is an image of them installed. I also added an LED strip light at the top. I am debating putting the door back (it was already sized for stacking front loaders) or trimming it out and living it open (less doors to open to do laundry).View attachment 46180
Looks better than any panel or door. But are they secure?
 
Looks better than any panel or door. But are they secure?

It is basically the same arrangement as the two units we replaced, and they didn't move, even during that 30 hour gulf crossing. They are tied together and most of the weight is the washer at the bottom. There are also stops behind the dryer and I could add something in front. The door was more decorative than protective, and given the confines of that space, they cannot lean too far before hitting the ceiling, thus they would never even make it to the door. I do wonder though if the broken support bolt on the old washer was due to the gulf crossing. I doubt it though. But something to keep in mind with a front loader.
 
given the confines of that space, they cannot lean too far before hitting the ceiling

After last night's extraction proceedings I can confirm that.
 

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