Deck paint

[Oldlaxer1]

The PO apparently repainted the non-skid areas and didn't do a very good job. I need to put a coat or two of paint over the existing non-skid. I don't think I need to add more nonskid as they went a bit heavy I think.
What is the recommended paint to recover the nonskid areas?

Also, they used a bright white paint and when the sun is shining it is almost blinding. What color do you all recommend for the deck non-skid areas?
Thanks
John

 

[Scarlett]

Obviously a 2 part LP paint is best. Some things to consider is the darker you go the hotter the deck will be. An off white might be good. You also can add a flattening agent to the paint so it is not so bright and glossy. A simple to use 2 part paint is Perfection, it will hold up pretty well, but not as good as a true LP paint, but is it much cheaper and easier to use and is designed to be rolled on. John

 

[SEVEN]

John, give me a call sometime today and let’s discuss preparation for that deck. Any paint you use is only as good as the surface it’s being applied to.

 

[racclarkson@gmail.com]

Had good luck with Perfection. Adding non-skid pellets will cut the gloss down. Painting over non-skid will also dull it down. But you’ll need to top coat if you add more non-skid. Roughing up existing non-skid (if in good shape) with bronze wool worked for me. Obviously, your existing paint will be the determinant for prep work. Been thinking about kiwi grip after watching the platform posts.

 

[Leland]

I used a product called "Tuff Coat" 5-6 years ago on the worn out teak deck on my Grand Banks. The improvement was dramatic. It had great non-skid qualities, was relatively cool on bare feet, cleaned fairly easily, looked great and has held up well. It's probably due for a recoat but I'm hoping the next owner will take that on (the boat is for sale - anyone need a nice GB50?) It's a water based elastomeric coating. The deck on my Hatteras looks crappy after a sloppy job by the PO and I'm considering using the Tuff Coat again. They'll send you samples of the product if interested. By the way, I have no connection to them.

Bob

 

[Oldlaxer1]

I've been trying to get in touch with the PO's to see what paint they used. As I understand it, there are compatibility issues between one part and two part paints. PO's are apparently no longer on speaking terms so I may be out of luck.

 

[Gallagher]

Do an acetone test, look up on youtube. Basically you soak a rag in acetone put it on deck cover with plastic seal with tape and wait an hour or so,if paint peals up its one part. Do look upn youtube forexamples. Boatworks today has a good video

 

[Scarlett]

If the one part used was a polyurethane like Briteside they are fine to overcoat with 2 part paints, however the adhesion of the 2 part paint will only be as good as the one part below it.

 

[Oldlaxer1]

Do an acetone test, look up on youtube. Basically you soak a rag in acetone put it on deck cover with plastic seal with tape and wait an hour or so,if paint peals up its one part. Do look upn youtube forexamples. Boatworks today has a good video

Awesome. Thanks.

 

[Oldlaxer1]

If the one part used was a polyurethane like Briteside they are fine to overcoat with 2 part paints, however the adhesion of the 2 part paint will only be as good as the one part below it.

Thanks. I believe it was Brightside and for the most part the adhesion is fine. A couple of areas on the bridge where water puddled are flaking a bit under a pressure washer.