Racor CCV Install on Detroit 8v92's

[rustybucket]

Been assembling the parts for this install for what seems like forever. Finally most of the pieces on hand I began the install. These are racor ccv 4500's. One for each turbo.

I already have walker airseps so my routing is going to be valve cover -> Racor -> walker airsep.

During this process I'm adding puke cans for the racors and also adding puke cans for the walker's and airbox drains. Each engine will have two puke cans. Puke can in the front will be for the racors and puke can #2 will be near the rear of the engine to catch the airseps and the airbox drains.

Racors mounted to plywood to be mounted in front of each engine.


Puke Can for the racors (one can on each engine.


Inside the puke cans is filled with stainless steel kitchen scrubbers. Any oil vapor that makes it this far should condense in the wire.


The puke cans are made from 1 1/4" pvc and have brass drain valves/cocks on the bottom. Racors, airseps and airboxes will connect via 3/8" pushloc hose and flare fittings.

 

[SKYCHENEY]

Seems like overkill. I have CCV's (one per engine) and only drain about 4oz out every 50hrs of run time.

But nice looking job just the same.

 

[kelpy]

Why are you doing this?

 

[billwilletts]

I guess I am ignorant but what is the purpose of this? I have 8v92 as well with Walkers on and I have problems with anything foul in the engine room. In fact I leave the engine room doors open all day every day.

 

[rustybucket]

Sorry guys, I figured most on here would know what these were and what they do.

So the Racors are Crankcase Ventilation Filters. They take the vapor from the crankcase (top of valve covers) that otherwise would be introduced directly to the turbo via the Airsep and run it through a filter media that is supposed to condense the oil vapor to remove most/all of the oil/gunk from the air. Then it sends the air back to the turbo through the airsep to be consumed.

The number and size of the racor CCV filters used is directly proportional to the horsepower and number of turbos. I called Parker/Racor directly for consultation on sizing for my engines. Mine are 600+ hp with twin turbos. They highly suggest one racor per turbo hp rated accordingly to half the total engine hp. Which for me came out to two of their smaller units. They did say if space was a major concern one larger unit would also suffice. For me space was plenty so I opted for the recommended install.

The CCV filters are supposed to accomplish a couple of things.

1. Keep the intake side of the turbo cleaner. Constant oil vapor on the intake side will buildup on the blade and gunk up a turbo. Turbo life should be extended considerably, some claim indefinitely.

2. Aftercooler will stay Cleaner. If the oil vapor makes it past the turbo the aftercooler is the next stop that will condense more of the oil vapor. An oil coated aftercooler is a very in-efficient aftercooler. With the CCV's the aftercooler maintenance schedule should be able to be extended.

3. Supercharger . If any oil vapor makes it past the aftercooler the supercharger is the next stop and then the airbox drain.

4. Cleaner engine burn and exhaust. The idea is that engines like fresh clean air and not gunky oily vapor air. What goes in, must come out. So if we clean the oily vapor before the engine ingests it it would seem that our exhaust should be cleaner (if only slightly).


The puke cans are simply drain cans for the condensed oil/vapor will be used in two places on each engine.
1. The two racors will drain into their own puke can forward of the engines.

2. The Walker Airseps will drain into a puke can along with the re-routed Airbox Drains.


Airbox Drains: During the cycle of normal operation and combustion oil and other sooty gooey residue builds up in the airboxes. Detroit 'fixed' this problem by adding airbox drains that just drained out onto the ground/highway...etc. This is one of the reasons Detroits are known to 'slobber'. On our boats of course they couldn't just have goo dripping out into the bilge.... so they routed the airbox drain back into the oil pan.

This is good, b/c it keeps slobber out of the bilge, but it is VERY bad b/c this gunk really should not be re-introduced back into the oil. This stuff is a by-product of combustion and should not be used for lubrication.
There is a process of removing the airbox drains, adding a check valve and routing them to a puke can, which can occasionally be drained, keeping the oil healthy.

Really all of this project is about making the engines burn cleaner and last longer. These are newly remanned engines so I figured if I could spend $1k and possibly lengthen the life of even just the turbos it would be a good investment.

This boat will probably have 250hrs per season put on her, with several multi-day trips 100+miles offshore.

 

[kelpy]

So you must be ditching the Airseps for the Racors since they both do the same thing. The Racors are more modern and from what I understand, a bit more efficient than the Airseps.
Using the puke cans is a good idea and I have had them on the 16-92s for the past ten years or so. There are two on each side of each engine, one for the Airsep and one for the airbox drains.

 

[rustybucket]

So you must be ditching the Airseps for the Racors since they both do the same thing. The Racors are more modern and from what I understand, a bit more efficient than the Airseps.
Using the puke cans is a good idea and I have had them on the 16-92s for the past ten years or so. There are two on each side of each engine, one for the Airsep and one for the airbox drains.

Yes, the racors are quite a bit more efficient than the airseps from what I understand. I will be keeping the airseps, so essentially the crancase air will be filtered twice. Through the racor then again through the airsep.

You could go with racors only and no airseps, but you would have to purchase a new filter setup. Since I just purchased new airsep filters last year I'm going to stick with them.

 

[SKYCHENEY]

I have to wonder if you will pull the required air through all of that setup. You may have so much restriction with all of that hose and components that you don't vent enough through to collect any oil vapor at all. The Racor needs a certain flow as its centrifugal action that separates out the oil. I'd ditch the Walkers.

 

[rustybucket]

I have to wonder if you will pull the required air through all of that setup. You may have so much restriction with all of that hose and components that you don't vent enough through to collect any oil vapor at all. The Racor needs a certain flow as its centrifugal action that separates out the oil. I'd ditch the Walkers.

I can't imagine that the walkers would cause much restriction on the flow would they? Seemed pretty open and non-restrictive.

Nothing on these racors appears to be centrifugal based to me...? Maybe you're thinking of the racor fuel filters? This is just a filter element inside a can.

I would think flow would hinge off how much blowby you have? All hose is 1.25" and the run is 5' forward and 5' back. If I've got so much airflow that 1.25" hose over 10' is restrictive I've probably got other issues.

Here is the install diagram from racor.

 

[SKYCHENEY]

Maybe its okay. I still see no need for the Walkers.

 

[rustybucket]

Maybe its okay. I still see no need for the Walkers.

The only 'need' is that they are already there, and I 'need' to quit spending money on this thing!

 

[rustybucket]

Got this project pretty much finished off this weekend, just got to come back with a few zip ties to tidy everything up.

Puke can with one check valve installed


Both check valves installed and connected to CCV's


Going to zip tie these hoses behind the water hose.

 

[rustybucket]

Hose routing. Each CCV used 9' of the 1.25" hose.

 

[racclarkson@gmail.com]

RB, you've done a nice looking job. Let us know how it all works when you're underway.

I have a question on your puke cans. Is there enough gas passing through the drains from the Walkers and air box drains to justify an air filter?

 

[rustybucket]

RB, you've done a nice looking job. Let us know how it all works when you're underway.

I have a question on your puke cans. Is there enough gas passing through the drains from the Walkers and air box drains to justify an air filter?

Most of the people who make these puke cans are using valve cover caps, like below.

I filled my puke cans full of stainless steel scrubbing pads so that should handle any oil condensation that gets into the cans.

There has to be a breather of some type on these, how you get there is totally up to you. I was removing the airsep breathers anyways, they just happened to fit the cans exactly, so I just re-used them.

Here are a couple of other examples that inspired my design.

 

[racclarkson@gmail.com]

I do thank you. Yours was a good use of the airseps.

 

[Dreamboat]

Hose routing. Each CCV used 9' of the 1.25" hose.

What make and type of hose did you use? I'm about to do the same job.

 

[Scarlett]

If I remember correctly my CCV’s came with the hose when I bought them new. John

 

[rustybucket]

What make and type of hose did you use? I'm about to do the same job.

There are a couple of gates part numbers that will work, I used both b/c of availability. As far as I can tell it's the same exact hose.

GATES

24304

GATES

23620

 

[barebone]

What hose did you use for the air box drains. I have some melted ones from the last "fix".