Exhaust Pipe Leak

[JonHupp]

Hi,
I've got a 1983 53'ED with 8V71TIs. I have a water (and I assume exhaust) leak in the engine room from the huge pipe that collects exhaust/water from both shower heads and joins to form an 8" pipe that goes to the main exhaust. The leak is small and is on the inferior side (of course, rust) just where the pipes from each side join to form the big 8" pipe (ahead of the hose and hose clamps).

I have a couple of questions.

1) What is this huge pipe (exhaust collector from both sides) called?

2) I've had it 'repaired' once, but I wasn't impressed. Can this be replaced or should I just look for another place that can cut out the bad metal and weld in a new patch? The good news is this is a low pressure pipe. The bad news is it has a lot of water flow and potentially exhaust leak into the engine room. Again, this is after the shower heads, which look fine and don't leak.

Thanks.
Jon

 

[SeaEric]

I suspect that you're describing a part that is referred to as a "hammerhead". The originals are welded stainless and they go bad at the welds. There are various ways to replace them. If you're in Md. call DD mechanic Tom Hug.

 

[JonHupp]

I suspect that you're describing a part that is referred to as a "hammerhead". The originals are welded stainless and they go bad at the welds. There are various ways to replace them. If you're in Md. call DD mechanic Tom Hug.

Thank you. I know Tom. He's frequently so busy I was wondering about other options. Thanks.

 

[nautibake]

I have exactly same issue in same place (surge suppressors). Fortunately the guys at Marine Exhaust in Riviera Beach are only 5 minutes away from our marina. Mark came over and gave us a quote to replace both sides with fiberglass for around $3K plus install. They are running about a month out from when you give them a deposit, and then it’s 1-2 weeks once they have your exhaust in their shop. We’re jus waiting for next haul out in a few months.

 

[JonHupp]

I have exactly same issue in same place (surge suppressors). Fortunately the guys at Marine Exhaust in Riviera Beach are only 5 minutes away from our marina. Mark came over and gave us a quote to replace both sides with fiberglass for around $3K plus install. They are running about a month out from when you give them a deposit, and then it’s 1-2 weeks once they have your exhaust in their shop. We’re jus waiting for next haul out in a few months.

I looked at their site and they look like they know this end of the business. Unfortunately, living in Maryland, I would rather not have to remove my 'Hammerheads,' ship them to Florida and then have the fiberglass ones shipped back to me. Their products look great! Thanks.

 

[MadHatter53]

My boat is in NJ but I had Tom Hugg do my engine survey while it was in MD. My boat will be hauled mid October so I won't need to worry about plugging the exhaust while work is being done.

 

[miboatnutz]

Another option might be to take them to a local steel fabricator and have a new set made in 316 stainless using your old ones as a pattern.

If I had to guess (I own a steel fabrication company) I'd say the cost would be close to the fiberglass units. Only difference is the fiberglass units will likely last forever whereas the stainless units will eventually wear out due to the diesel exhaust which tends to eat into the metal over time.

If you take that route they should use 316 weld wire. Old ones lasted thirty some odd years.......

 

[miboatnutz]

I would not try and patch the old ones. Just asking for trouble there.

 

[SEVEN]

Bite the bullet and go with fiberglass.

 

[Cricket]

Fiberglass is the way to go.
I had a stainless surge tube issue with some holes, to get thru the season we slid exhaust hose over the pipe and hose clamped it, had a few holes in the welds too and used epoxy to seal those. Then sent them to Marine Exhaust for fiberglass ones.

 

[SeaEric]

Bite the bullet and go with fiberglass.

+1 on the fiberglass.

 

[JonHupp]

+1 on the fiberglass.

I certainly agree that fiberglass is best. I would question whether my boat (and certainly it's owner) will be around in 30 years to reap the benefits of glass over stainless. Certainly will investigate both, it will come down to price, shipping.... I suspect new stainless 'Hammerheads' will outlast me and my '83 MY. I completely agree with everybody that it is foolish to try and repair what I have. Thanks. Jon

 

[JonHupp]

Follow up on the "Hammerhead" (also called "Hammer Exhaust Collector" by some shops). I've contacted various exhaust fabricators in New York, Florida, and Georgia (Centek). Going price is $1600 to $1800 each. This, of course, does not include the cost of sending my old units to them and shipping the new ones back to me.
I may try and fix my current one before spending $4000 or more for two new ones.

 

[SEVEN]

If it’s not in an area where it gets real hot try F-12 or flex seal tape for a temporary fix.

 

[oceanjake]

I can tell this will be frowned upon, but I can report from experience that success can be had with "Marine Tex". Looks like you have lots of access in your work area. You can wire wheel the bad material off to get clean metal. Clean the area thoroughly and mix a batch of marine tex. With a gloved hand, work it into all of the pinholes and let it set up. After that you can sand it again and apply a second coat over the WHOLE area with a brush or spatula. Smooth it out with a gloved hand again. It dries grey and shiny, it's very hard, and will buy you a minimum of a couple years.

No this is not the proper way to fix your issue, but it will ensure it's sealed for quite some time and I don't think you're in danger of that pipe splitting in two and sinking the boat. My .02.