coolant in 12v71 oil

[ageless]

Which hose failed? It sounds like the head is cracked but that doesn't happen to 6R or 6L very often.The head may have failed first causing the hose to burst. You can check the remaining coolant in the HE with a test strip to see if exhaust residue is present.

The 4” 90 degree hose here

 

[dsharp]

Hopefully you just melted the rubber seals . I didn’t get that lucky and cracked a head but the gauge was pegged when I caught it. I was letting a friend hold the wheel so I don’t know if I could have caught it in time either. It ended up being a steel tube that connected the he tank to the circulating pump. I hope the damage isn’t too severe. 180 shouldn’t have melted the seals.

 

[MVCaprice]

It’s amazing how quickly things go wrong once coolant leaks out. A couple years ago a guy I know with a 65 convertible lost a coolant hose and smoked a 12-92. It was toast before he system monitor caught it or perhaps his monitor wasn’t working. In any event a big deal. Hope all works out and isn’t too bad. Keep us informed and do post more pics!

 

[kelpy]

Discussing with the Mrs which direction to go, she’s been surprisingly accepting of repower, she insist on a new fridge and eliminating the raw water heads in return

I would jump all over that!

Those hoses looks like they should have been changed out years ago.

The engine would have to be been smoking hot to degrade the seal rings. They are pretty stout. Either way, the head will have to come off.

 

[racclarkson@gmail.com]

I would jump all over that!

Those hoses looks like they should have been changed out years ago.

The engine would have to be been smoking hot to degrade the seal rings. They are pretty stout. Either way, the head will have to come off.

I think 215 degrees and up is what Detroit has claimed.

 

[jjgar's54]

My $.02 may or may not help, but this is what I experienced after bringing my (then) new boat home from NC to CT. 12-92's ran great with no issues. The morning after the last run into port, I checked the oil and found exactly the same in my port engine oil pan. Lots of probing, pressure testing ....... you name it. Without getting too long winded, I found that the coolant pump seal blew. The weep hole was clogged and the seal between the gear drive shaft and the timing case side of that pump blew as well. Result .... after the engine was shut down and there was residual pressure in the coolant system, coolant entered the crankcase via the timing cover under which is the pump gear drive. My guess it started with residual pressure and turned into a siphoning effect. I pumped out 4 gal of clean pink coolant before (luckily) getting to un-tainted engine oil. Changed out the coolant pump, oil, and coolant and all good. Are 12-71's and 12-92's similarly configured? That I do not know. But the similarities in your situation and what I experienced is evident. Hope you fare as well as I did.
JJ.

 

[MVCaprice]

My $.02 may or may not help, but this is what I experienced after bringing my (then) new boat home from NC to CT. 12-92's ran great with no issues. The morning after the last run into port, I checked the oil and found exactly the same in my port engine oil pan. Lots of probing, pressure testing ....... you name it. Without getting too long winded, I found that the coolant pump seal blew. The weep hole was clogged and the seal between the gear drive shaft and the timing case side of that pump blew as well. Result .... after the engine was shut down and there was residual pressure in the coolant system, coolant entered the crankcase via the timing cover under which is the pump gear drive. My guess it started with residual pressure and turned into a siphoning effect. I pumped out 4 gal of clean pink coolant before (luckily) getting to un-tainted engine oil. Changed out the coolant pump, oil, and coolant and all good. Are 12-71's and 12-92's similarly configured? That I do not know. But the similarities in your situation and what I experienced is evident. Hope you fare as well as I did.
JJ.

Good advise. This could happen on a 12-71 as well as the pump is gear driven and is directly connected to the oil passageway. Its definitely worth checking.

 

[kelpy]

The drain pasasage is pretty large to get crudded up but evidently it can happen. Doesn't sound like it in this case though. The OP found evidense of coolant in cylinder 6R. It cant get there from the coolant circulating pump.

 

[Bayside Bert54]

The pins that the rockers pivot on in the cylinder head have coolant under them. If they become loose, that is a potential source of coolant in the oil.

When I had coolant in my oil, it was not emulsified but concentrated in the bottom of the oil pan even though that coolant/oil had been circulated through the engine.

I also experienced coolant in the oil from a couple of cracked liners on my 12V71TI.

It's probably overhaul time. It was each time for me.

 

[Sonic Boom]

We've had this a few times so a couple thoughts and they're only worth what you paid for em!

1. 180 degrees shouldn't be too hot
2. It's rare an oil cooler fails. Usually it will transfer oil in the coolant since oil pressure is higher than coolant pressure.
3. JJgar's54 has a good thought on the water pump. It will make coolant temp rise and transfer water quickly. Had this happen last year.
4. Injector tubes will cause water in oil, usually not quickly thought. Hopefully the pic will post of one we found last week.


Pressurize the system and let us know what you find. Were always up for an education.
If it wasn't so far I'd help you.

 

[ageless]

I had a 35 year experience detroit mechanic on the boat today. He is unable to perform tasks due to his health but he provided some guidance and knowledge on what steps to take. He was really happy with the condition of the pistons, based on observing through inspection holes. We then filled the engine with water and put 7lbs of pressure in it. We observed each drain back hole in the heads and saw no water intrusion there. We did experience the same issue I noted when I pulled the inspection covers and turned the engine over, had a steady flow of water from 6R. As best I can tell, the flow is coming from the inner rear side of the sleeve, there is no water in the sleeve, and I can´t say for sure whether the water is flowing down from the inner rear side or is coming from lower down. As soon as I get my hands on a borescope hopefully I will be able to visualize the cause, whether it's coming from the ports or elsewhere

 

[johnjen50]

Did you ever find the cause of the water?

 

[ageless]

Did you ever find the cause of the water?

I decided to pull 6L and 5L inspection covers to see if coolant was visible there. 6L showed signs of coolant intrusion that was old, 5L had some small water drops around the liner. I turned the motor over to see if 5L was a result of the leak in 6 but I believe it to be vise versa, found coolant inside 5L liner on top of the piston. We are pulling that head tomorrow

 

[johnjen50]

Thanks. sorry to hear that. hopefully just a gasket and not too much damage. Hope you caught it early enough.

 

[johnjen50]

Well, I guess it happens to the best of them. Last night on Deadliest Catch Wild Bill's boat had water in one of the engines that got there from a bad weld in the exhaust pipe that exits the top of the boat stack! Water was pouring out of the engine. Crank was all rusted as the engine sat for two months with the water in it.

 

[ageless]

I've been turning wrenches on my personal stuff for 25 years and I have learned that if it's mechanical anything can happen whenever. I do my best to ensure nothing I can control is the culprit but like my situation, you can only control so much

 

[ageless]

I swear I will never understand......

Progress on head removal was going GREAT!! I had my 17yo son turning wrenches with me, I was really happy with the way things were going, and then, like always seems to happen to me, as we were getting down to the last few steps before being able to remove the head low and behold, something major happens. One of the manifold bolts snapped about 1/2" below the head. I didn't think it would be a big deal, manifold should still just slide right off, right? Oh no, not this one, I believe the bolt is rusted or corroded in there, the manifold won't budge. We've tried to wedge between the manifold and head, no movement, we've tried to heat around the bolt (although difficult with the amount of iron around the bolt), no movement, we've managed to drill out a good 1.5" of the bolt in hopes it would free up, no movement. I feel like drilling out the bolt is the only option but these SOB's are 8" long.

Any other words of wisdom?

 

[racclarkson@gmail.com]

I swear I will never understand......

Progress on head removal was going GREAT!! I had my 17yo son turning wrenches with me, I was really happy with the way things were going, and then, like always seems to happen to me, as we were getting down to the last few steps before being able to remove the head low and behold, something major happens. One of the manifold bolts snapped about 1/2" below the head. I didn't think it would be a big deal, manifold should still just slide right off, right? Oh no, not this one, I believe the bolt is rusted or corroded in there, the manifold won't budge. We've tried to wedge between the manifold and head, no movement, we've tried to heat around the bolt (although difficult with the amount of iron around the bolt), no movement, we've managed to drill out a good 1.5" of the bolt in hopes it would free up, no movement. I feel like drilling out the bolt is the only option but these SOB's are 8" long.

Any other words of wisdom?

That's not the same seventeen year old son that drilled a hole in the bottom is it???

 

[Bayside Bert54]

Can you remove the engine from the boat? It's far easier, cleaner and more professional to build the engine properly on a stand.

 

[racclarkson@gmail.com]

Can you remove the engine from the boat? It's far easier, cleaner and more professional to build the engine properly on a stand.

A better question might be, can you remove the boat from the engine?