32v to 12v/24v head conversion

[hatterass]

I know there has been several threads on this topic and I have read them. I am looking to convert 2
heads both 32v with the GM pumps to a easier quieter system. I would like to install a 12v system both for cost, ease of parts, smaller plumbing hoses and serviceability reasons. I would think I could get a converter and bump it down to the 12v. I can't find a head that is actually designed 32 to 12. Is there any new thoughts on this or am I still looking at 1000$ for a 32v head?

On another note does anybody know what naiad stabilizers were used in a 85 61' Hatteras? Can you still get parts I have read conflicting reports.

 

[Cricket]

Doubt you're not going to find a device to reduce voltage from 32v to 12v that will handle that kind of surge amps. You could always change the entire boat over to 24v and make everything easier?

 

[Toolsntoys]

I am in the process converting myself. I bought the raritan freedom fresh water head I figured I am going to add a 12volt bank an just add the heads to that. I thought about using a converter but thought it would be better to have the 12v available for other stuff too.

 

[hatterass]

I would also like to go to the fresh water. Switching everything over to 24v seems like a lot of work and expense? Am I correct on that?

 

[Cricket]

Galley Maid will switch your pumps over to use a solenoid valve to be used with a fresh water pressure system.
Or, you can add a separate pickup to the tank to suck water out with a regular GM pump, don't forget the check valve.
RAZ may offer the same pump modification/service.
We switched our boat over to 24v when we repowered. Just was tired of dealing with product limitations/choices. At 24 volts you probably have a good chance of using much of the existing wiring where at 12v it's probably not heavy enough to handle the increased amperage loads at 12v.

 

[SEVEN]

A rebuilt unit at Raz was 650.00 if memory serves me. If your handy you can rebuild them yourself for the cost of the parts. Much cheaper and not that hard

 

[hatterass]

Very handy and already rebuilt one. The other head I can't figure out "yet" No pier to solenoid or pomp it seems and it comes straight from the engine room 32v breaker system. I wanted to update the heads and with that new toilets with fresh water and less moving parts.

 

[SEVEN]

If you pull the GM out, post them for sale on this site. I just bought 3 for 350.00. I split the cost with another Hatteras owner. We are going to rebuild them and have them ready a spares. Best of luck on the switch.

 

[Glory]

I switched my boat from 32 volt to 12 volt. Heads, pumps, Bildge and domestic, bulbs, starters, alternators, battery chargers, blowers, wiper motor, volt gauges, horn solenoid, shut off solenoids, primer pumps, breakers, wire, breakers, about $6K in parts.

My generator was 12 volt already, and all of my helm gauges are mechanical including fuel pressure and vacuum.

I now have 7 banks, port 3, starboard 3, house 3, generator 2, navigation 2, windlass 2 (24 volt) and inverter 3, all group 31,18 in all, About $2000 worth of batteries, all starboard outboard of the gen.

The inverter bank is not included in the $6K for parts. The inverter came later.

,

 

[SEVEN]

I switched my boat from 32 volt to 12 volt. Heads, pumps, Bildge and domestic, bulbs, starters, alternators, battery chargers, blowers, wiper motor, volt gauges, horn solenoid, shut off solenoids, primer pumps, breakers, wire, breakers, about $6K in parts.

My generator was 12 volt already, and all of my helm gauges are mechanical including fuel pressure and vacuum.

I now have 7 banks, port 3, starboard 3, house 3, generator 2, navigation 2, windlass 2 (24 volt) and inverter 3, all group 31,18 in all, About $2000 worth of batteries, all starboard outboard of the gen.

The inverter bank is not included in the $6K for parts. The inverter came later.

,

You are the man. Not a bad price for the benefit

 

[davidwigler]

I like the 32 V system. That said, I just installed a new 12 V Raritan Atlantis head with fresh water solenoid in the master using this converter:

https://store.marinebeam.com/heavy-duty-16-42v-to-12v-dc-to-dc-converter/

I would've used a 32 V model if they still were available, but the system is working great. The 30 amp converter easily handles it and theoretically has enough Power to operate a Purasan treatment system when I get around to installing one. For $46 it's a pretty good deal.

 

[Scarlett]

Just did the same 32 to 12 volt Raritan, using a Newmar 32 to 12 25 amp converter which runs the holding tank Macerator overboard discharge pump, a large 12 volt exhaust blower and the toilet, Don' run them all at the same time so the 25 amps is sufficient.

 

[hatterass]

Thanks for the advice. I did get the forward head running today. It is getting stuck so a rebuild will be in the future. The other one the GM is shot and will have to be completely rebuilt. I still like the converter idea. Many more choices and cost savings.

 

[BoaterGirl]

If you get a chance give the guys over at Raz Marine a call. Ask for Mike, he is the best. They have some good deals on conversions and can help you find a converter as well. Also I believe they have a new Sanimarin system that they are selling to replace the old galley maid stuff if people want an upgrade.

 

[boatwright]

we have been full time live aboard for 7 years and have been using vacuflush the whole time 24 volt pump and a 32 volt sys. so far no pump motor problems