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Battery terminal nuts and bolts

  • Thread starter Thread starter Dreamboat
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Dreamboat

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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
53' MOTOR YACHT (1969 - 1988)
Does anyone know where I could get replacement nuts and bolts for my battery terminals to match existing? You'll see on the attached picture that the outside diameter of the shoulders is quite large, although the actual bolt is only 3/8" in diameter.
I know, you'll ask: What is wrong with the ones I have? There is nothing wrong with the ones I have but the PO changed to regular bolts on a couple of the other terminals (not in view) and I want to get the proper ones to replace them.
Thanks in advance.
 

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mcmaster carr and fastenal sell flange head cap screws and flange nuts.
the hard part is going to be finding them with square heads. haven't seen them in ages.
 
Call east penn mfg in topton pa they should have them.
 
And get new connecting cables. Those are way too small. They should be 4/0 just like the cables leading from the batteries to the engines. They will not equalize properly with those small cables.

You may not see problems now, but over time you will kill part of your battery bank due to under and /or over charging.
 
This is not a direct response to this situation, but more of a comment and recommendation if you need new batteries. When you buy a set of Rolls from Rae Battery, he sends new bolts and new connecting cables with them. They are all 4/0 cables and stainless bolts and nuts. Really a thing of beauty and the proper accessories for the job. As usual, you get what you pay for.
 
You may not see problems now, but over time you will kill part of your battery bank due to under and /or over charging.

Depends on the amount of current during charging. I doubt the size difference for such a short run would matter during charging. It MAY matter during short heavy amp draw, but even then maybe not.
 
Depends on the amount of current during charging. I doubt the size difference for such a short run would matter during charging. It MAY matter during short heavy amp draw, but even then maybe not.

It matters. I have seen it on a 60C with this same exact setup. You get high draw when cranking and the batts down draw down evenly. Then they don't charge evenly either. Think of it like a chain; only as good as its weakest link and those connecting cables are too small.
 
Thanks for all the replies.

I couldn't find those nuts in the East Penn catalogue, but I sent them an email and am waiting for their reply.

McMaster doesn't have that size, nor does Fastenall

Sky - I'm just waiting for my new Rolls Batteries to come in any day now. However I bought them up here in Canada, so I won't be getting the additional cables and fasteners that Rae provides (Unfortunately). I will make up a set of newer correctly sized jumpers.

I still would like to find these wide flange nuts and bolts though. I'm just wondering if any of you have the same type of fasteners or is this something unique to my boat?
 
If you ask your supplier will they not get you the items?
 
If you ask your supplier will they not get you the items?

That was my thought. Heck, they might even show up with the new batteries. I didn't know Rae was sending them, they were just in a bundle attached to the batteries(cables, bolts, and nuts).
 
I just looked at the photo and I think I see another issue. Are you pulling 24v off of the third battery in the series for something? If so, what is that for? That can also cause an issue with over/under charging some of the batteries in that bank.
 
Sky - You're very observant. That is the way the boat was rigged up when I got it. It's for the Ideal windlass. I was wondering about that myself, but it was working ok, so I never bothered with it. I never got to the nameplate of the motor yet to see whether it's meant for only 24V or if it might also run on 32V. I will confirm all that when I put the new batteries in.

Scott - I didn't ask the supplier at the time of the order because I only need a couple of replacement nuts and I didn't think they would have them up here in Canada anyway, like so many other things. On the other hand, if you don't ask you don't get, so I will inquire about these.
 
Sky - You're very observant. That is the way the boat was rigged up when I got it. It's for the Ideal windlass. I was wondering about that myself, but it was working ok, so I never bothered with it. I never got to the nameplate of the motor yet to see whether it's meant for only 24V or if it might also run on 32V. I will confirm all that when I put the new batteries in.

At least the windlass is not used very often. But if you wanted to change that motor out, you can get the 32v motor from Ideal. If it were mine, I'd be tempted to run the 24v motor on 32volts. It is a long run and with the voltage drop it would probably not see more than 32 volts under load. If it did go out, I would then see if I could get it rewound for 32 volts.

The wire size to the windlass also looks much smaller than on the ones that Hatteras wired. Just another reason to move to 32v as it will decrease the amp draw.
 
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Thanks Pete

The flanges on those bolts aren't near as wide as what I have on the boat now, but I'm aware of that seller. I've bought quite a few nuts, bolts and screws from them in the past. Good quality and good service.

I'm just curious: Does anybody else have these types battery post fasteners on their boat or is mine an odd aftermarket issue?
 
Thanks Pete

The flanges on those bolts aren't near as wide as what I have on the boat now, but I'm aware of that seller. I've bought quite a few nuts, bolts and screws from them in the past. Good quality and good service.

I'm just curious: Does anybody else have these types battery post fasteners on their boat or is mine an odd aftermarket issue?

I use the ones that come with the Rolls Batteries. They are standard stainless bolts and nuts.
 
Just to rain on the parade. Stainless is a lousy conductor. I'd get a flanged brass or copper bronze bolt if I was worried about contact surface and resistance.
 
Just to rain on the parade. Stainless is a lousy conductor. I'd get a flanged brass or copper bronze bolt if I was worried about contact surface and resistance.

With a flag terminal, the bolt probably doesn't matter since the connector is drawn flat against the terminal and area of contact is quite a large area.
 
Scott

Those are the crimp connectors I used when I installed my Outback 3232 and I will be using those with the new batteries as well.
 

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