Rub Rail Screw water problems? Thinking of using a rubber grommet.

[1966 Contagious]

Since I'm working on my rub rails I'm thinking about using a rubber grommet between the screw and the stainless steel rail. What do you think? I think it would seal out the water problem better than calking.

 

[Cricket]

Caulk it on because you need to stop the water from running behind the stainless, not just sealing the screws. Just make sure you don't use 5200 or similar product that won't allow easy removal in the future. I like Sika 291, 3m's 4200, or the old stand by Dolfinite bedding compound If any of the screw holes are lose this would be a good time to inject some thickened epoxy or glue a plug in, a piece of tape over the hole will stop the epoxy from making a mess.

 

[MikeP]

I know a lot of folks don't like 5200 much but it's the only thing I use for that application (or any through-hull application). It is not difficult to remove a screw from 5200 - it just unscrews. I used it on all 200+ screws in the flybridge and all the various screws/fittings that hold things to the flybridge deck - davit bolts, dingy rack bolts, antennas, etc. I have removed many of them to change/relocate hardware and there is no problem unscrewing from 5200 IF you use an electric driver. By hand…well, that DOES get pretty tiresome.

I will readily admit that Hatt used 5200 in places on our 53 that although it worked perfectly for 30+ years, it is a real BEAR to remove…like around hoses going between bulkheads I don't use it for that when replacing hoses.

 

[bobk]

I know a lot of folks don't like 5200 much but it's the only thing I use for that application (or any through-hull application). It is not difficult to remove a screw from 5200 - it just unscrews. I used it on all 200+ screws in the flybridge and all the various screws/fittings that hold things to the flybridge deck - davit bolts, dingy rack bolts, antennas, etc. I have removed many of them to change/relocate hardware and there is no problem unscrewing from 5200 IF you use an electric driver. By hand…well, that DOES get pretty tiresome.

I will readily admit that Hatt used 5200 in places on our 53 that although it worked perfectly for 30+ years, it is a real BEAR to remove…like around hoses going between bulkheads I don't use it for that when replacing hoses.

Mike, I think Cricket was suggesting caulking the entire rub rail to seal the deck/hull joint. In this case, future removal of the rail would be a real chore if 3M 5200 was used.

Bobk

 

[MikeP]

Sorry, I misunderstood - I was thinking it was about bedding the screws. I agree that I would not use 5200 to "caulk" the rail to the boat!

 

[Cricket]

The old 50's have laminated wood rails with solid SS rail screwed on, that's why I think it's important to make sure everything is sealed.

 

[1966 Contagious]

I am already using clalking 4200 right next to the stainless rail as well. Heading there now to work on it Ill take some pictures to show you what I mean and try to post some tonight.

 

[1966 Contagious]

I decided to just use calking. Thanks for everyone's advice.

 

[rsmith]

Make sure the screws are not stripped in the wood. I have a 12' section of that rail laying somewhere in a couple hundered feet of water

 

[1966 Contagious]

Most of the screw holes are in great shape. Plan to take all of them out on the Starboard side today and epoxy the ones that are loose and calk behind the head. Here is a close up of the before/ calking next to the stainless rub rail. If you want to see more finished photos of the boat look under my other post help hubby thinks I'm taking in too big of a project in my other thread.

 

[Tim Powell]

Whie at it get you some liquid bartender soap most grocery stores have it and scrub it use plenty of watter to wash removing all from the paint. It does not hurt but leaves a much whiter spot. It is the best and cheapers stainless cleaner you can get as far as i know....