Noisy Galley Maid Anchor Windlass

[bobk]

In the repair process for the core rot under the pulpit of my 48MY the GM windlass had to be removed. Now that it is replaced it makes a noise when running out the chain, even with the chain removed, and the speed seems to be erratic. Sometimes normal with little noise, then slows with a grinding type noise. Running in the up direction is fine. Quiet and normal speed.

Does anyone have any thoughts on why? A new mahogany support block was fitted under the pulpit, but it seemed to fit well.

Bobk
1981 48MY

 

[SKYCHENEY]

When you reassembled the top end, did you get the snap ring on right under the wildcat? If it slipped down on the shaft it will cause the wildcat to drag on the deck plate. This can also happen if you tighten the capstan too much forcing the entire assembly down on that snap ring.

First check to see if there is clearance under the wildcat. Try loosening the top capstan nut and see if it continues to make that noise.

 

[bobk]

When you reassembled the top end, did you get the snap ring on right under the wildcat? If it slipped down on the shaft it will cause the wildcat to drag on the deck plate. This can also happen if you tighten the capstan too much forcing the entire assembly down on that snap ring.

First check to see if there is clearance under the wildcat. Try loosening the top capstan nut and see if it continues to make that noise.

Thanks Sky. There was clearance under the wildcat. We dissasembled the top end again and all looked OK. Reassembled and it works fine. No noise at all. And it pulled the 75# anchor over the roller with the capstan only hand tightened. I used to have to crank down hard on the nut to bring the anchor over the roller. The only difference in the thing is the clutch surfaces were cleaned. Maybe it was too tight.

Again, thanks for the advice.

Bobk
Chateau de Mer
1981 48MY

 

[SKYCHENEY]

Glad to hear all is well.

 

[Beckytek]

In the galley maid anchor winch there is no thrust bearing in the gear housing in the down direction. The end of the gear grinds into the housing when you use the down anchor foot switch. If you read the manual, you'll notice they recommend using the spanner wrench to loosen the clutch and release the chain. In the anchor up direction there's no problem, only down.
This of course is a lousy design.
I drop anchor by removing the chain from the gypsy and let it run until there is proper scope, then return the chain to the gypsy. I never use the down chain switch for fear of damaging the worm gear. I don't feel like using the wrench to loosen then tighten the clutch very time I anchor. I understand they copied the design from Ideal but failed to get this part right.

 

[bobk]

Most of my anchoring is in creeks, many tidal, so I like to be on the bridge managing the boat up to the last second. I actually let the anchor go just into the water while I select the perfect spot... so I do need the down switch. I agree with your comments on the design.

Bobk