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So much for a coat or two of paint

  • Thread starter Thread starter OBXTucker
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OBXTucker

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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
58' LRC (1975 - 1981)
From the looks of this, we'll be stripping her down to the gelcoat and starting over. A bunch of barrier coats + finish it off with Trinidad. :(
There's goes the spring budget!

2_4_4_11003.jpg
 
Jeff, looks like she will lose a couple hundred pounds in the process! We hauled last Friday and until a month ago, our plan was to blast down to the glass and start over. That project got put on the back burner because of a windlass rebuild and an autopilot. Best of luck with the project.
 
Yeah, just when you think the project list is winding down, another major ones bites ya' in the butt! :)

Heck, I could buy a small boat for the price of a strip/paint job on this beast!

She'll definitely be lighter and quicker though!!
I think there's about 6-8 coats of black, 2 coats of blue and at least one coat of red on top of the gel!
 
So OBX, what are the cost? Are you going to soda blast it? Looks like too much to sand. My 43 is kinda in the same shape. I dont think its chipping yet, but it does have some big divits and very rough areas. I'm new at this so not sure what the cost per ft is. I was also thinking about prop speed but dont know if its worth the cost. Yeah, I'm thinking spring budget as well. Keep us posted.
 
Dump the Trinidad and go with Micron 66 and you will never have that problem again.
 
Or try Pettit Horizons ablative
 
I'm up in R.I. and I had my bottom soda blasted in the fall for $50 a foot. Well worth the money and when it's done you get to start from scratch. My 2 cents is this. Get a few prices and if you get a chance inspect some of there work. I've seen a couple of bad jobs were there was still a bunch of paint on the bottom.
 
Dump the Trinidad and go with Micron 66 and you will never have that problem again.
Ditto. Why use a hard paint after all that work?
 
I just had my 54 Viking done. They sand blasted the bottom, 3 barrier coats, and 2 coats of Micron 66. The total cost was 6500. I am on the boat right now and don't have my records in front of me but that is close. My bottom looked like OBX's in the picture. The yard sent me pictures if I can get my daughter to help I will post them.
 
Agreed, in spades. Get the boat soda blasted- don't let them use anything else- and then roll on barrier coats if you need them and ablative paint over that. Soda blasting should get everything off without difficulty, especially since it is flaking off already. Paint: I have had good luck with SeaHawk- if you can believe this, it is on its third season and still does not require recoating. The yard touched up the waterline at my request but that was mostly for appearances. Also, I have had good luck with the Pettit Zinc Barnacle Buster spray on the wheels and shafts.
 
Speaking of ablatives, I see that the pettit horizons has about 47% copper vs 37% for micron csc (which I have been using). So pettit is listed at 170/gal vs about 220/gal for the micron csc. Pettit is saying duh! I'm thinking they have a point. Any comments?
Gary
 
I just had my 54 Viking done. They sand blasted the bottom, 3 barrier coats, and 2 coats of Micron 66. The total cost was 6500. I am on the boat right now and don't have my records in front of me but that is close. My bottom looked like OBX's in the picture. The yard sent me pictures if I can get my daughter to help I will post them.
Where are you located? That price is very low for a complete bottom job.
 
I was thinking the same thing. My quote is considerably higher than that. They are quoting a lot of prep work and quite a few barrier coats, plus the top coat. In their words, "a 10 year" paint job.....

I'll discuss the other paint alternatives with them tomorrow. I really appreciate the advice and recommendations! Looking back at old threads, these paint discussions really strike a nerve. Almost all of them are 3-4 pages long!
 
I was thinking the same thing. My quote is considerably higher than that. They are quoting a lot of prep work and quite a few barrier coats, plus the top coat. In their words, "a 10 year" paint job.....

I'll discuss the other paint alternatives with them tomorrow. I really appreciate the advice and recommendations! Looking back at old threads, these paint discussions really strike a nerve. Almost all of them are 3-4 pages long!
If your bottom is in good shape the prep and barrier coats shouldn't be too bad. If the sand blast then you really need to apply several layers of barrier coat to ensure the hull is water tight. A lot of the damage to the gel coat is done by the blasting. Soda blasting or some of the other less aggressive media blasting is much better on the hull than sand. If you go with soda blasting, the hull needs to prepped for paint. Soda blasting can leave the hull too smooth for good paint adhesion.
 
FWIW, Passages was sand blasted, blister repaired, 2 barrier coats, and 2 coats of ablative Micron Extra for $200/ft. Was not cheap but they did a great job.

Sand vs soda - depends on the guy handling the blaster. Soda is more forgiving but If you have a skilled operator, sand can produce excellent results.
 
I am having the old Chris media blasted this week. They are going to use some media made by Dupont that is supposed to be much easier on the gelcoat. Will post some pics.

No blisters or problems just too much paint. 31 ft costing 1000.00 .
 
I am having the old Chris media blasted this week. They are going to use some media made by Dupont that is supposed to be much easier on the gelcoat. Will post some pics.

No blisters or problems just too much paint. 31 ft costing 1000.00 .
Sounds like a good deal. Years ago I did it by hand. I was much younger and dumber then.
 
Jeff...is that first post photo post showing all paint peeling?? Or is there some prior barrier coating in that...can you tell....??

How thick is that, 1/4" or more????
 
Trinidad is a bad choice for that. After the whole process of taking off the buildup don't put a hard paint back on. FWIW We use almost exclusively micron 66. We repair and prep every boat for it unless they demand a hard paint. pettit is OK but will not outlast the micron 66. By the way the amount of copper by weight may not represent the amount of copper available to prevent fouling. I have not used any micron other that the 66 in years so I cant compare it to the others but I will say the cost / benefit of the 66 seems to make everyone happy.
 
I have used Micron since 1983 on hundreds of boats. Used the 22,33 44 CSC, CSC extra and the 66. The 33 was the best with the tin and bright colors. It was so slick in the water that the bottom of the boat felt like a wet bar of soap. The 66 is close and my paint of choice.

I DESPISE Trinidad! Every boat I see with it has flaking paint and lots of it.
It just does not work as well as the new paints. Maybe it was the best 40 years ago...

I haul my Hatt every 2 years [ 3years this time] . After the bottom is pressure washed, the grey barrier coat is visible. No lingering build up of paint.
With Copolymer paint the biocide is active as long as paint is still there.

With the hard types like Trinidad the the binder[paint] is still there after the biocide is spent.


Don't buy into the BS about "I have a fast boat, I need a hard paint"!
I have used Micron on Donzi center consoles and got two years out of it.
 

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