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32 volt Inverter

  • Thread starter Thread starter Dustoff44
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There is a thread discussing exactly that and I have been planning to combine the batt banks for some time now. I'd be REALLY happy if somebody made a 32v combiner but they don't. My intent is to combine the banks by wiring the Pos sides to a batt switch and, though I will have the ability to combine/decombine, I plan to leave them combined all the time.

As an aside, the Calder book explains that one large battery bank is more efficient than two smaller battery banks. When I read that a year or so ago, it raised my first serious thought about doing it.
 
For you, this may work just fine, Mike. Since you have a separate battery to start your generator, you shouldn't have to worry too much about running them down to the point that you couldn't start anything. I have to keep the starting bank in reserve because that is my only backup once I draw the house bank down.
 
Sky, you are right, that's the primary reason that I view it as a good, workable thing. If I still had the oem 32v genny, I would NOT consider this for even a second.
 
"As an aside, the Calder book explains that one large battery bank is more efficient than two smaller battery banks. ..."

This is technically correct, but Peukert's law which underlies this is insignificant for many applications...when typical loads are low, like refrigeration and toilets for example. Most other design components are MORE significant. It becomes more important for high current steady load applications.

I have always split my house load between two banks...hence efficiency is theoretically equivalent to a single bank with loads combined BUT....if one bank goes accidentally dead, say to a refrig door left open, or a failed water pump motor, I have not lost ALL my accessories....
for eample I run a 12v frig off one bank, a 12volt freezer off another...about equal loads, and I have maintained some redundancy....

it's a far superior arrangement for those who cruise away from dockside power for long periods....loads can alway be switched from a dead bank if required....
That is one of the very few explanations from Calder that is just a bit misleading and not thoroughly informed..


not a good idea to put all your eggs in one basket....For example, I have 7 bilge pumps...three on one bank, three on another, and the last one on a third bank...and my separate bilge alarm is on the third bank..which should be the last one operating if disaster strikes...

If you do gain a 1% advantage, you'll quickly forget it when a single big bank goes dead....and mission critical loads fail to function....


"Would there be any harm or issues in keeping the two bank paralleled into one big bank while on shore power so that both get good charges, then unparallel them before starting so you maintain the redundancy of two banks while under way or at anchor?"

That's a good general approach....only if they are manually paralleled and you lose shorepower might both banks be drawn down together...
 
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For you, this may work just fine, Mike. Since you have a separate battery to start your generator, you shouldn't have to worry too much about running them down to the point that you couldn't start anything. I have to keep the starting bank in reserve because that is my only backup once I draw the house bank down.

When I tied both banks together permanetly I created a small 32V bank just for the gensets just in case I ran everthing down. The nice things about one big bank are. The Outback with smart charge and equalization now handles all batteries. And when I'm inverting I've got more capacity and deplete the batts less. And when I'm running and inverting I've got three alternators working so even at just 800 RPM I can still make 3200 wats of AC without losing battery power the alternators stay a head of it.

Brian
 
I could NOT find any multi bank charger when I refitted some years ago that provide individual sensing....

... three outputs, for example, would have to be completely independent....in other words three chargers in one, and expensive.

The new Xantrex XC does exactly this without 3 chargers via multiplexing. A quote from the manual:

"In multiplex charging, the XC Series queries the banks every 15 seconds. The lowest voltage battery will be charged for 15 seconds and then all banks are rechecked, until all the banks are fully charged. This means that although only one bank is being charged at any precise moment, averaged over a 45 second time period, all batteries appear to be charged simultaneously."

You can also set the XC to just stay charging the lowest battery until it is fully charged. They call this sequential charging.
 
The new Xantrex XC does exactly this without 3 chargers via multiplexing. A quote from the manual:

"In multiplex charging, the XC Series queries the banks every 15 seconds. The lowest voltage battery will be charged for 15 seconds and then all banks are rechecked, until all the banks are fully charged. This means that although only one bank is being charged at any precise moment, averaged over a 45 second time period, all batteries appear to be charged simultaneously."

You can also set the XC to just stay charging the lowest battery until it is fully charged. They call this sequential charging.

I don't believe the Xantrex XC comes in 32v, nor is it a charger/inverter combo? Just a charger and only in 12v and 24v according to http://www.xantrex.com/web/id/180/p/1/pt/7/product.asp You know something we don't?
 
I don't believe the Xantrex XC comes in 32v, nor is it a charger/inverter combo? Just a charger and only in 12v and 24v according to http://www.xantrex.com/web/id/180/p/1/pt/7/product.asp You know something we don't?

Dave,

You are exactly right. Sorry for the confusion. This thread has wandered around a bit and part of Rob's discussion was about 12 volt chargers. I was just trying to let people know about the XC charger since it is pretty unique which is why I bought it! The choices for 32 volts are few.
 
Certainly the modern smart chargers are far superior to the old ferros BUT it's important to keep some perspective...the original Rolls batteries that were supplied in our 53MY in 1980 were maintained by that old Lamarche charger and they lasted 15 years before they needed to be replaced...

So in reality, does anyone believe a new smart charger will somehow make them last 20 instead of 15? ;)
 
No, but it might make a set of the inexpensive batteries last 6 years rather than 4-5.
 
Certainly the modern smart chargers are far superior to the old ferros BUT it's important to keep some perspective...the original Rolls batteries that were supplied in our 53MY in 1980 were maintained by that old Lamarche charger and they lasted 15 years before they needed to be replaced...

So in reality, does anyone believe a new smart charger will somehow make them last 20 instead of 15? ;)

No the rolls batts are pretty durable and expensive. But with ordinary batts I think you could easily add some years with smart charge. The ability to equalize alone cleans them up and gets the #s back where they should be.

Brian
 
No the rolls batts are pretty durable and expensive. But with ordinary batts I think you could easily add some years with smart charge. The ability to equalize alone cleans them up and gets the #s back where they should be.

Brian

That and all the time savings from checking and filling with water. My Sentry used to keep me looking at the battery levels constantly. Now, they seldom need any water.
 
So how often do you check them? I would expect to perform the same checks at the same frequency with the Outback smart inverter/charger that I do with the LeMarche.
 
I have to check mine monthly with the old charger, so so said the PO. He said he had to add water nearly every month...but so far all winter they have barely moved...now granted 32v loads have been VERY low...so that may go up as we use the boat more...but I've heard you hardly ever have to add water with a smart charger...like maybe check them 2-4x a year and only add 1-2x a year...
 
I used to check every week and add water about every 4 weeks. Since I installed the new charger, I am not really in a routine yet, but it looks like I only need to check every 4 weeks. I have not had to add water since installing the charger in January.
 
OK... that makes sense. I have my LaMarche on a timer for 4 hours per day for the port bank. The Outback inverter/charger handles the Star bank. I found that both banks "use" water at about the same rate. I add water twice a year. BUT the outback is on constantly and the LaMarche is only on 4 hours a day. The outback keeps the star bank at optimum charge, the LaMarche (at 4 hours/day) does not do the same with the port.
 
OK... that makes sense. I have my LaMarche on a timer for 4 hours per day for the port bank. The Outback inverter/charger handles the Star bank. I found that both banks "use" water at about the same rate. I add water twice a year. BUT the outback is on constantly and the LaMarche is only on 4 hours a day. The outback keeps the star bank at optimum charge, the LaMarche (at 4 hours/day) does not do the same with the port.

At first I thought the timer was a bad idea because the charger may be off when 32V loads are present. But I bet in fact it's a good idea because it allows the batts to come down enough to cause the Lamarche to crank up some charge which helps de sulfate.

One of the problems with good chargers is that the batts are dormint. As small loads are drawn the charger comes up to meet it. So the batts end up with very little power out or in charged but dormint. That's not good for wet cell batteries they need to be brought down a little then get a good bulk charge for a while. That stirs everything up kinda like going for a jog!!!


Brian
 

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