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Zinc replacement

  • Thread starter Thread starter spincycle
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spincycle

Active member
Joined
Dec 6, 2007
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131
Status
  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
54' EXTENDED DECKHOUSE (1989 - 1992)
Seem to be replacing my zincs(drive shaft, trim tab, etc) about every six months, Is this normal? the bottom cleaning guy tells me when i need to replace them and he says it's time again. it just seems very soon, i don't know if the guy is ripping me off because I don't dive down there my self and look at the condition of the existing zincs. I'm in the st. pete cleawater area.

Spincycle
 
Check for a ground current leak down your shore power cord, and also check for a DC leak on YOUR boat.

Both are entirely possible and both will cause your zincs to be eroded at an accelerated rate. The latter can be a LOT of fun to find - the easiest way is to shut off EVERYTHING and turn off ALL DC breakers, disconnecting the batteries. CHECK WITH A VOLTMETER to make sure there is NO VOLTAGE on the system (you'll destroy an ohmmeter if there is voltage!)

Now set your voltmeter to OHMS and put one tip on the POSITIVE DC lead that you disconnected from the battery. Put the NEGATIVE on the BONDING SYSTEM of the boat. It should read OPEN (infinity.) If it doesn't you have a leak somewhere in one of the primary circuits in the big panels (e.g. engine starting circuit, charger, etc.) Fix any current leak found there.

Now start turning on breakers. The meter should remain on INFINITY. If it shows a resistence you have a leak. It is possible that the "leak" is in fact a soft power switch on some piece of electronics, so you have to run down EVERY indication of leakage to see which ones are real and which ones are not, and disconnect the V+ feeds on the electronics that have soft power switches as you go.

Fix all leaks until you get to where ALL DC breakers are ON, all DC loads are OFF (light switches, etc) and the meter reads OPEN (infinite resistence.)

Common sources of leaks are wires that are immersed in bilge water (bilge pump switches are notorious for this), have chafed partially through, or are on a terminal block that also carries ground and has corrosion, moisture or other material that can "bridge" the two sides.

For the AC side if you have an ISOLATION transformer then your AC Ground (from the pedestel - make sure you unplug it!) should NOT have continuity to ANYTHING (including the bonding system) OTHER THAN the shield at the transformer. That is, the SHORE ground should STOP before it gets on board. If you have a NON-ISOLATED AC system then the grounds are TIED and if there is an offset on the AC cord coming from the shore ped you have a problem. You can install a ground isolator but IMHO the better solution is on a boat large enough for a transformer is to either replace or reconfigure that transformer to be an ISOLATION transformer and never worry about it again, nor worry about the risk of the ground isolator failing and electocuting someone.
 
So the good news is that I've just completed putting a dock behind my house on Biscayne Bay, and it has water, electric etc. I am the only in-water boat for a hundred yards in any direction.

The bad news is that I seem to be burning through zincs at an accelerated rate (> 6 mos). I have a 1985, 45C and my batteries are in the Lazarette and the electric panels, bonding systems are located in the engine room.

Genesis, how could I easily perform the test that you are recommending with that set-up. Also, could corrosion on the green bonding wires in the ER (on shaft logs, thru-hulls etc) cause sufficient resistance to be the source of my problem ? Do you think it is my "professional" (expensive) marine contractors that wired my dock pedestal ? Any help is appreciated. Thank you,

Greg
1985 45C
Hat Time
N. Bay Village, FL
 
If you just moved there to that dock then the problem must be your original location, wait a while to re check and in the meantime do the testing as Genesis says
 
If you are using up a normal amount of zinc repeatedly at six month intervals, something is wrong...likely a dc leak...electrolysis...
 
Could corroded green wires (bonding ? wires) lead to my zinc appetite ?

If I follow Karl's advice, I need to make up some longer jumper wires to my Ohm meter because of the separation of batteries and electrical panels on my Hat. What gauge jumper wires are appropriate or is there another way to accomplish Karl's recommended procedure ? Thank you.

Greg
1985 45C
Hat Time
N. Bay Village, FL
 
Green on the bonding wires is normal, salt water and copper wire...as long as the wire is not losing bulk or end connections, 14/2 wire is ok for extension to you meter leads.
 

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