Winter Storage

[chris piazza]

Yes that time is upon us again up here in Michigan. Since this is my first year with the 53c I have a quick question about storage. I am going inside, heated and I would like to know if there is anything I need to do with the mains (8-92TA) other than changing the oil. Going to do a couple of projects this winter such as Racor CCV’s, pull the intercoolers and clean them. Is there any prep work I should do before she is hauled? I have already added Diesel Clean to the tanks. What else am I missing?

Chris
Superior Nights 53c

 

[jim rosenthal]

I'm assuming you are going to winterize the rest of the boat....you should probably change your fuel filters as well. I would do that first, then add your stabilizer etc to the fuel and run the engines long enough to get it into the FI system. Check your antifreeze and all that. I can't think of anything else.

 

[chris piazza]

I was'nt going to do much else to the boat other than draining the water tanks, the marina keeps the storage building at 60, keep a few of the windows cracked for some ventilation, maintain a charge in the batteries but that was about it.

 

[Avenger]

I'm probably over-cautious, but if the heating sytem in that building fails the damage to your boat would be pretty bad. Your water system, and your engine raw water system wouldn't do well in a Michigan winter. Do they have heating redundancy? If not I would at least try to drain these systems, if not actaully winterize them. Of course, this kind of defeats the purpose of heated storage.

 

[Passages]

My list would include the following:

Change oil & Filters (trannies too)
Check FW side of cooling system, flush & Change AF if needed.
Change primary fuel filters - secondary too if you don't know how long it's been.
Run non-toxic -60 AF through engine RW systems
Remove raw water impellers, do not reinstall till spring
Winterize water system with non-toxic -50 AF, then drain as much pink as possible

Winter Project - remove Hx cover plate and inspect Hx for scale & Zebra Mussels. If fouled, acid clean in place or remove for proper boil out.

 

[SKYCHENEY]

Chris,

I do nothing except drain the water tank. Other than that you will be fine. The operators of these heated buildings know that no one winterizes in them and they are prepared should there be any problems. One of the reasons you are paying for heated storage is so that you don't have to winterize.

 

[Nonchalant1]

I have always used inside heated storage for my 53MY. I always change engine oil and filters and marine gear oil and filters first. You gotta run them to warm it up before changing, so that has to be done in the water, and you don't want engines stored with old oil in them.

I run antifreeze in the summers anyhow, so I leave it and change it in storage over the winter. I run most of the water out of the fresh water tank, but I leave 50 gal or so for washing up in the warehouse. I just have to have a bucket for it to drain into. Our marina has redundant heating and an automated cell phone call to the marina owner if the temps in the warehouse drop too much, so I've never worried.

Make sure they give you a spot where you can reach shore power in the warehouse, assuming they have it. It's great to be able to use the AC systems and lights in the boat in the winter.

Also, plan on bringing a 6 ft. step ladder and chaining it to your swim platform. Just leave it there so you can always get onboard.

Doug Shuman

 

[SKYCHENEY]

I like to change oil in the spring. I disagree that leaving the oil in over the winter is a problem. It just sits in the pan, so I see no difference between changing in the fall or the spring.

 

[captddis]

I always liked to change the oil in the fall. While the oil drains back to the pan, the old oil with all its contaminates is still coating the bearings and stays in a lot of oil galleries. It is also in the cam pockets and idler bearings etc. I have a box of brass fittings that I use for oil changes on cust. boats. They turn ugly colors from the old oil that sits on them.
On the other hand , The yard I worked for up North changed oil in the spring. There were never problems there either. I just feel better with fresh oil.

 

[Walter P]

Sky, Don't you think that old oil contains various acids and other nasty stuff? I know that I probably change oil too frequently but I'm afraid that the potential corrorsiveness (sp) of by products of combustion may be a little harmful if left in the engines for 5 or 6 months. I realize that it sits mostly in the pan but hopefully some of it sticks to the surfaces that require it's lubricity.

A litle test that I have done and please understand that I am NOT an expert in this department, is to take a plastic or metal container and fill one with fresh clean 40w motor oil and take another of the same type of container and fill with used drain oil. Pour out the contents of both into their respective containers and set the empty cans on a shelf and check them out about a week or 2 later. Take your clean dry index finger into each of the cans and I think you will feel that there is a better coating on the container that held the new fresh oil than the old drain oil. Hopefully the same thing is happening on the internal parts of my engines. At best I may be correct and my engines will be better protected. At worse, I wasted a few bucks on an oil change that was possibly unnecessary. Oil (even at todays prices) is a lot cheaper than engines and I would rather be safe than sorry.

By the way.... I am extremely jealous of you guys that can winter store inside heated buildings and get to work on them all winter. My normal winter storage in NJ is outdoors with shorepower connected all winter for lights and small power tools. We also use oil heaters but only when we are on the boat working inside and never leave them unattended, so full winterizing is required.

Walt....

 

[SKYCHENEY]

I've heard some say that engines tend to draw moisture in through the winter and changing in spring truly gets you a start with fresh oil free from moisture or contaminants. I really don't think it makes much of a difference either way.

We never know for sure when a truck is going out of service due to lack of work so we never change oil in the trucks in when they are not being used. We do, however, always change it when they are put back into service. This is usually not more than 4-5 months. We have done it this way for 45 years and it doesn't seem to shorten the interval between overhauls. I would think that a marine diesel should fair about the same.

If we were talking about a real storage period of several years or more, I would take additional measures, but a few months should not be a big deal, IMHO.

 

[Walter P]

Sky,

I can't argue with experience and with your machinery and equipment you certainly are more qualified than I on this subject. Now you have me really paranoid - should I put new oil in the fall and then again in the spring?

Walt

 

[Trojan]

I always change my oils in the spring. I would rather have condensation (IF there is any, and I would not think so) in my old oil and removed in the spring. OIL never looses it's lubricating quality or goes bad. It only gets dirty. I like starting the season on fresh oil. I never have water in my fuel. Maybe you are different in the south. I have never had a condensate problem in south east Michigan.



BILL

 

[yachtsmanbill]

FFT- food for thought--combustion blow-by contains a lot of sulphur, that and a little moisure produces--? SULPHURIC ACID.
Short or long term storage causes this to accelerate causing--? ws

 

[chris piazza]

Ok now I’m really confused. Change, don’t change, how about just putting fresh oil in the fall and leaving filters AND oil change to spring. Cuts down on costs and takes 90% of sulfur out? Sky do you know of anyplace around where I’m at to get bulk oil, at least five gallon buckets

 

[Capt K]

I have always changed oil and filters in the fall only. Storing old oil, as stated above, can be an issue with acidity. As far as changing again in the spring, I think it's overkill to some extent. It's probably the purest way to be sure what's in there, but overkill, nonetheless.

Gas engines have less capacity, so maybe it's more of an issue, but my diesels have always held around gallons of oil. I don't think the small amount of possible condensation is that much of an issue. It's more important to cap off the exausts, if possible to protect the cylinders exposed to open exaust valves, IMHO.

This is one of those, whatever makes you feel comfortable and lets you sleep at night, kind of thing. There's no purely "correct" answer.

Either way, up here in the Northeast it is NOT a good time. Kinda depressing from a boating standpoint.

K

 

[yachtsmanbill]

IMHO-- used oil is acidic regardless of condensation. A hot drain and change w/filters in the fall should be good and un-necessary in the spring. The acid attacks all the bearings. One year isnt too bad but continued neglect is UH OH!

 

[Trojan]

My diesel farm equipment sets out in all kinds of weather and temperature. I have never had a problem with bad oil. I change it by the hours NOT the seasons. Some go for years. One of my trucks only runs for about 24 hours a year, same fuel same oil I just add to it as needed. Good old 6-71 DD. Its 15 years old. I think some of you people just like to procrastinate. I wonder if you worry about your health as much as you worry about things on your boat that don't matter either way. Of course Its your choice. Different parts of the country have different conditions. You guys in the salt have completely different problems then we do in the fresh water. I totally enjoy the different home remedies that each boater brings to the forum and has for the same problem. I guess you just to choose what is best for your conditions and use. Check your local listings. If it is not mechanical in nature, You know it's going to have a a list. Keep them coming. There is never a bad question and almost never a bad answer. Don't worry be happy.


BILL

 

[yachtsmanbill]

Hey Bill --Ive got to agree; I rarely if ever change the oil in my mower, but a boat engine produces 100% load on the bearings as soon as its put in gear. Theres no coasting on a boat. Just MOHO. ws

 

[34Hatt]

The acid attacks all the bearings

This is the Truth and why you always do it in the fall!!!!!
I have seen bearing from a motor after one winter of sitting with old oil they had pit marks in them .
If your worried about condensation a 100 watt pan heater on each pan will take care of that. If you can't get the electric, close up exhaust which I feel you should always do. Close off all vents and put a couple of buckets of that moisture absorb in the engine room. No moisture in engine room No moisture in oil .