Let me respond to a few questions and suggestions from the group.
The screws you see on the flybridge flange are some temporary round head screws. The oval head square drive with finishing washers fasteners will be reinstalled after the paint job is complete. Used round head since they have the smallest head diameter.
On the glassing of the flybridge flanges, I did two out of three. There is the aft seat, the steps from the boat deck to the bridge, and the flybridge surround. The prime consideration on all my decisions is "no water leaks". The seat and step were removed, the screw holes in the bridge deck were counter sunk and epoxied, and these units re bedded in fiberglass. All holes and the flanges were then faired. I did not do the flybridge surround since it could not be lifted to fill and fair the deck holes along with removing all the old caulking. And, yes I am sure with enough effort and trouble you could get it off, but I elected not too and the screws do make it look correct for a classic in my opinion.
On which paint to select, I decided on Alexseal for spot repair capability. Awlgrip is a unique paint that migrates a thin clear coat to the surface during the cure process. Thus, you always have a "halo" problem when you try to buff in a spot repair. If you really like U S Paint you might look at Awlcraft, which does have spot repair capability. Awlgrip does however win on initial gloss. For what it is worth, Hatteras has been painting its new boats with Alexseal for several years, as has Jarrett Bay with their new boats. They offered to use Imron, Awlgrip, Awlcraft, or Alexseal. BTW, the sequence of paints I just listed is also the sequence that Hatteras has used on new boats over time.
Weather is looking good for Monday spraying.
Pete