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Winter Paint Job Report

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Pete

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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
48' LRC (1976 - 1981)
Our 48 LRC has been in the Jarrett Bay paint prep building for about five weeks. She is now ready for primer, and Monday looks like the day she will get several coats of Alexseal Primer. A few days back I took some pictures of my sad looking boat. Attached are two that may be of interest. Will post some more as she progresses. Excuse the poor photo quality, will try to do better in the future.

Pete
 

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I am having my 55 Convertible painted as well. We are only about one week into the process. I have a choice of using AlexSeal or AwlGrip. What do you guys think? What is the best choice? Pros and Cons?

Best,

TG
 
Up until recently I would have told you to go with Awlgrip, but I have been hearing some very good reports about Alexseal. It deserves some research. We had our 58YF repainted last year and used Awlgrip. I am very satisfied with the results.

Fun project. GOOD LUCK!!!
 
Pete, I cannot see for sure, but it looks like your flybridge screws are still in place. Surely the yard knows this, but make sure they remove them before prep and paint. Lesser yards will paint right over them!

Replace with new SS screws and washers after the paint job and it will look new. My yard offered to remove the screws and fill and fair the holes and then paint for a "cleaner" look, but that wouldn't quite fit right on a vintage Hatt, so I passed.
 
I agree with TH... mine was painted over all the screws throughtout and it looks like sheist! On a 10 year old paint job, thats a tall order to fix!! ws
 
The cleats and fairleads need to be removed also. Why mask for two screws?

Ted
 
Let me respond to a few questions and suggestions from the group.

The screws you see on the flybridge flange are some temporary round head screws. The oval head square drive with finishing washers fasteners will be reinstalled after the paint job is complete. Used round head since they have the smallest head diameter.

On the glassing of the flybridge flanges, I did two out of three. There is the aft seat, the steps from the boat deck to the bridge, and the flybridge surround. The prime consideration on all my decisions is "no water leaks". The seat and step were removed, the screw holes in the bridge deck were counter sunk and epoxied, and these units re bedded in fiberglass. All holes and the flanges were then faired. I did not do the flybridge surround since it could not be lifted to fill and fair the deck holes along with removing all the old caulking. And, yes I am sure with enough effort and trouble you could get it off, but I elected not too and the screws do make it look correct for a classic in my opinion.

On which paint to select, I decided on Alexseal for spot repair capability. Awlgrip is a unique paint that migrates a thin clear coat to the surface during the cure process. Thus, you always have a "halo" problem when you try to buff in a spot repair. If you really like U S Paint you might look at Awlcraft, which does have spot repair capability. Awlgrip does however win on initial gloss. For what it is worth, Hatteras has been painting its new boats with Alexseal for several years, as has Jarrett Bay with their new boats. They offered to use Imron, Awlgrip, Awlcraft, or Alexseal. BTW, the sequence of paints I just listed is also the sequence that Hatteras has used on new boats over time.

Weather is looking good for Monday spraying.

Pete
 
Just need to add one more observation. The Imron on our boat is the original factory paint job as best we can tell. 32 years in the southeast and still was looking acceptable. You could buff it back to a reasonable gloss, but it was an annual job. That original Imron is impressive paint. May it rest in peace thanks to the EPA.

Pete
 
I have seen some Alexseal roll and tipped pretty nice lately. I was an Imron guy for years but not the PW version. I know Awlgrip is tough to roll and tip so I would look at the Alaxseal as having that advantage.
 
Pete,
you picked the right place. I had my 45 done there last winter. I elected to fair in all the screw areas as well, do away with any corners in the cockpit. The Alexseal I selected is really nice and they did a fine job, but don't just be satisfied, look for any runs, bubbles, or what ever and have them make good.
In addition, I had them change out all my windows and add a custom curve to all the angles. Be sure to post more pictures and good luck. I know you must be proud, as I certainly was.
Here's a shot day 1 after leaving the yard.
 

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George, looks great. I note a few other changes. The original J molding on the bottom of the bridge over hang was removed. I have had them fill all the pop rivet holes on this edge and the boat deck overhang above the cockpit. Hope once we get the primer on tomorrow it looks fair enough to leave the J molding off in both cases. Also, appears your bow rail is gone. What about the bow pulpit? I had them replace the teak inlay with solid glass. I actually liked the look of the teak, but could not keep water from getting under it and lifting any finish I put on the teak. Also, your bridge wind shield is gone as is any feature stripping other than near the water. Congratulations on a great look. The window job adds a lot to the overall appearance. Of course a sleek sport fish, will have a different look than a classic trawler, but many of changes make sense in both cases. Do you recall the Alexseal paint color/number you used? I am going with Stark White T9192 with Navy Blue T5151 stripping. The Stark White is one shade lighter than the original Hatteras Cream White but not all the way to pure white.

Pete
 
George,

WOW!!!! That is one good looking paint job and boat. The updated you did really give it that custom look. What did you replace the fordeck hatches with ? Do you have any photo's of the top of the hatch? would love to see them.
 
Pete, I went with snow white, not cloud as it had a slight tint to it. That aluminum cap around the bridge had to go. I had previously had a cut down bow rail made that covers the area around the pulpit. The pulpit had to be completely removed, the deck needed replacement and the pulpit needed rebuilding. a huge mess. I think there are some pictures in the gallery under George. On the hatches, JB cut out the old yellowed fiberglass and did a smoked Plexiglass material to match the new windows. It really looks nice, but it does allow more light inside over the fiberglass. During the week, I place a towel underneath to block the sun from bleaching out the inside.
thanks for the nice compliments. If you take a look at some of my posts from last winter, there are many more shots to view, and also in the gallery under G for george.
 

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George, Thanks for posting the Photo's of the Hatches. I can't tell by the photo's did they fiberglass the plex. in the hatch or did they screw them from the under side it's hard for me to tell. Do you think if i sent my hatches to them would they modify them like yours? Who would I talk to? Thanks,
Charlie
 
I think what they did is create a bezel opening and inlaid the plexiglass in a bed of sealer, no screws and they are water tight season 1. Jeff Fulcher, the JB Yard Manager can let you know. Just let him know it was on the Polarizer Job winter of 2007. you can reach him @ fulcherj@jarrettbay.com
(252) 728-2690 ext 231.
 
George,

Thanks I will give them a call. They really look great and no screws to leak.
Thanks Again,

Charlie
 
FWIW, I would go with a paint that can be spotted in or touched up. That rules out Grip, but it rules in Awlcraft or Alexseal. Or Imron again, the oldest and still one of the best. Your boat is going to look great.
 
Saraswati is Awlgripped and we had a repair done right when we got her. It is virtually invisible...the repair required...prep, prime, shoot, wet sand, buff...but isn't noticeable unless I point it out to someone. The repair was done by Jim Jacobs of Osprey Marine...fantastic shop, highly recommended.
 
Another update on the paint job for our 48. First picture is cockpit prep along with changes to remove the overhead edge "J" molding and to have the underside a smooth gloss finish instead of the "striple" popcorn ceiling look. An additional change is the reglassing of the overhead light openings to accomodate some new Cantalupi SS round recessed lights. Second is a view of the bow pulpit with the glass replacement where the teak insert was formerly. Also took the Simpson windlass and its mount down to bare metal to give it a smooth new looking finish. Third is the pilothouse windshield. The striple popcorn overhang is also being converted to smooth on the flbbridge overhang. All continues to go well with the winter project.

Pete
 

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Looks like they are doing a really nice job. I'm sure you'll be proud to show her off once the job is complete. Keep the pics coming.
 

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