Windshield replacement time.

[MadHatter53]

My starboard windshield was shattered by a clam dropped by a seagull and the center panel has a crack in a lower corner but the port side panel is good. I have been putting off resealing the three panels which leak during heavy rains so now I have no choice but to replace all three glass panels.
I have read the sticky and wondered if the butyl tape vs a recommended glass caulk type seal would be a better option. The exterior trim is painted black and has a bit of bubbles here and there and the screws show no corrosion but I’m sure there will be a few that give me issues/snap during removal. I considered going with the replacement trim from look out windows but the price is prohibitive for me. I’m looking for general tips, advice and how to’s.

 

[Sadey]

I just removed all three of my pilot house windows. I am having a glass company remove the window panes. The frames have been media blasted and will get two coats of paint before the new glass is installed. He does not use butyl tape. After that’s done, I’ll use Sika Flex 295 UV to reinstall the windows on the boat. Then a final coat of paint will go on the frames to fix any nicks from the glass installer.

 

[Tricia II]

I had my center glass cracked due to a hurricane. The changed it out today with no issues. It is sealed up in an aluminum frame that folds outward for air flow at the helm.
However, the front 3 windows above my galley have to be completely removed because the old snaps are broken. Every screw broke off when they tried to remove them. They were the original chrome plated brass screws.
It took the guys half a day to remove the windows, remove the broken screws from the fiberglass and clean the aluminum frames. They will be sealing them up tomorrow with a caulk, not tape.

 

[JD5652]

When I did my center pilot house window on the 58LRC, I used butyl tape to "Set and hold" the window in place and Dow Corning 795 as a final seal around the frames.

 

[bostonhatteras]

The installation of the glass into the aluminum frame should be with a urethane adhesive using the appropriate glass primer. I've found that any automotive windshield installation glass shop would be happy to sell you a tube and primer of the latest and greatest urethane glass adhesive. The urethane should be warmed prior to use and having glass clamps for handling the glass is the best method. Installing the glass on a bench with the frame horizontal/flat is also recommended. It may seem silly but a dry run of how you'd lift the glass and place it in is very helpful.. once the glass touches the adhesive its game over so make some shims to drop the glass into the frame EXACTLY where you want it. Also have the urethane uniform in thickness as it doesnt flow too well, but its adhesion is crazy strong. test the watertightness of the glass install on the bench by filling the frame/glass with water. you can easily find the leak and add more urethane when the unit is free to move around and inspect. The butyl tape is for adhering the frame to the fiberglass cabin top perimeter cut out. broken screws can be dug out and the fiberglass/wood areas filled with west six10 and redrilled for the #8 screws. once the frame is reinstalled with the butyl tape and screws give a bead of uv resistant urethane caulk around the perimeter.

 

[jmooney]

I need to do my windshields too . I will look into Lookout Boat Windows fiberglass frames , but I am afraid they will be too expensive. I made new trunk window frames with extrusions from Sam’s . One thing I did with my new aluminum frames was to have them hard anodized. I then painted them. No corrosion yet after ten years.

 

[cww]

I have a question about this too, my windshield is fine in terms of that there isn't any physical damage. The problem is that Hatteras went above and beyond in using double-pane gas insulated windows, and like any/all of them from the 1980's they've leaked and I have cloudy areas inside the glass. What would be a decent general ballpark number for removing, cleaning, and resealing these? 2 of my 3 front windows and one side window all have this problem. It doesn't obstruct visibility or anything, it's only by the edges, I just don't like it because it's unsightly.

 

[MadHatter53]

Vincent's detailed explanation in the the sticky is great.

But also don't forget to check the Hatteras-produced procedure from the tan navigation bar on the left side of this page under "Tips & Tricks"

DAN

i forgot about that side of the page, there’s some good info. Thanks Dan.