Window Frame Condensation

[eze2bme]

Every since I've had my 43DC I've experienced condensation on the metal window frames in the salon during the winter with the heat on. There is no thermal break in these frames so they get cold from the outside and it transfers into the inside and the heat causes condensation that drips down onto the wood paneling and sills. Has anyone come up with a way to stop the consdensation? I installed a dehumidifier which helps but I still get condenssation. Any thoughts outside of putting a sheet of rigid insulation board over the outside of the windows during the winter? Would make the salon awfully dark! I'm in South Carolina and use the boat year round. Thanks!

 

[REBrueckner]

I use 40 mil clear vinyl, the kind used for soft enclosure windows on the inside of mine. It prevents frosting and condensation and greatly helps keeping cold out because the three or so inches of trapped air is a good insulator.

The idea is to creat a stationary air pocket with ends and bottom sealed, top is unimportant as the cold air sits inside.

Bottom edge fits into a single piece of plastic window channel ...on the wood frame...but I found with a perfect straight edge along the bottom it's not needed.... vinyl will sit on the wood frame for a good seal. I velcro the tops of the vinyl abve the window glass about every two feet....behind the curtain rods...for maybe six or eight inches. Best to also staple the velcro to the vinyl...it comes loose when warm sun appears....On the vertical end I use all velcro to lock in air.

I also found it helpful to do the job when the air and vinyl is room temp...it stretches better... and use of snap button along the top corner(s) makes alignment and placement automatic once you have it where you want.

For vented hatch: I put an external button on Sunbrella cover on so snow can't blow in and lay a flat square of clear vinyl on top of the interior screen...an air pocket is created and makes for a quick and easy winter seal.

For hull vents, I packaged small pieces of fibergalss insulation in baggies...and save them. I remembered where I stored them this year (!) so in maybe two minutes minutes I was able to plug them all up...I posted regarding engine room intake air vents here just recently...external sunbrella button on and internal plywood rimmed with rubber window gasket....

In NY/NJ last night, temps were to go to the low twenties....and did!!!...so I drove from NJ to my YF in New Rochelle NY between 8P and 12 Midnight...No traffic!!! had to close up a window and hatch and salon entry door all left open for ventilation, turn on my Webasto, and I found I had left the water pump switch on....Anyway, it was 27 degrees outside and 36 degrees inside around 10:30PM....and windy...By time I closed things up in about twenty minutes the Webasto thermostat clicked off at 41 degrees, my lowest thermostat setting....I also leave three electic heaters for backup set at 750 watts each on and they turn on at about 35 or 37 degrees if the main heat fails...I leave a small digitial thermometer in a porthole so a local friend and liveaboard can check when things get down around zero...and I fret!!!

 

[the kuz]

Rob, some great ideas. I'm going to go right out and put a "liner" on top of my deck hatch screen. I wonder if the shrink-plastic home window kits with the double-sided tape would work in the salon? (the kind that you shrink with a hair dryer) Might be a mess to remove the tape though. Thanks, Bob K

 

[REBrueckner]

Depends on the shape of your window interiors...a friend with a 46 Marine Trader did that for years...seemed to work just fine....You need flat surfaces to avoid spilling cold air out the bottom....and wood surfaces, not metal, for adhesion....Thye likely are slightly clearer to see thru.