Wheel removal

[wpc691]

Need to replace shaft seal in leaking helm pump (H21S), and stalled almost immediately trying to remove the wheel to drop the pump. The key moved freely, and the wheel moved about 3/16” on the shaft, but now won’t budge. Thought I would check here that I haven’t missed some secret pin or set screw before I go get a bigger persuader. TIA

 

[SEVEN]

Put a little lubricant on the shaft and let it sit for a bit. You’ve done everything correct so far.

 

[SEVEN]

However, make sure that somebody is holding the pump from underneath when you finally take off the wheel, because it could drop like a rock.

 

[wpc691]

However, make sure that somebody is holding the pump from underneath when you finally take off the wheel, because it could drop like a rock.

Thanks - I’ve got the pump strung up with zip ties. Hopefully by tomorrow the penetrant will have done its thing.

 

[Bob Bradley]

I had to use a puller the first time I took mine off, 9 or 10 years ago. Did it again last year and it slid right off no problem. '79 43C.

 

[oscarvan]

Yep, puller would be my next move.

 

[wpc691]

Thanks, 6” gear puller did it, but not without a fight...on to pump disassembly.

 

[bostonhatteras]

Before you use a steel puller and possible scar or scratch the wheel, why don’t you use a heat gun on the wheel hub and see if the opens it up enough to slip off?

 

[wpc691]

Before you use a steel puller and possible scar or scratch the wheel, why don’t you use a heat gun on the wheel hub and see if the opens it up enough to slip off?

Used both heat gun and penetrant extensively, neither touched it. Configuration of the wheel makes it impossible to get the heat to where you really need it with the wheel installed.

 

[wpc691]

Replaced rod seal and wiper on pump using a -214 quad seal for the rod seal, and a stack of .040 thick urethane backup rings for the wiper - $4.20 at Hydraulic Supply instead of $40 seal kit. Reinstalled, bled by cracking the fittings on the lines a couple of times; spun wheel both directions, tightened up after 8 lock to lock turns, kept spinning, eventually got down to 4 3/4 turns lock to lock. Interestingly, the wheel was 6 turns lock to lock before. The only thing I can think of is I somehow got the piston block deeper into the housing, increasing the engagement between the pistons and the balls, thus pumping more fluid with each wheel turn. I’m not sure which cylinder I have (not marked), but 4 3/4 turns doesn’t exactly match anything on the chart. I guess as long as it works reliably and I stopped the leak I’m happy.

 

[Photolomy]

My wheel is 4 turns lock to lock.

 

[rsmith]

I had the same thing there was a burr on the key that stopped the wheel from coming off. I matched up my seals with ones from the local hydraulic supply