Voltage transformers/regultors 32v-> 12v, help educate me

[rustybucket]

Ok, so after the first couple trips in the boat we have a laundry list of 'to-dos'. A couple of these issues involve 12v products running on a 32v system.

First of all is the windlass. The PO installed a 12v lewmar windlass and installed two batteries in the fwd bilge and a charger in the bow stateroom closet. Well, the batteries are pretty much toast and need replacing.

Personally, rather than replacing those batteries, and maintaining them I'd prefer to either switch to a 32v windlass OR install a voltage regulator that would allow the 12v windlass to run off the boat's 32v.

After looking at the price of a 32v windlass I'm really leaning more toward voltage regulator...

Anyone have any ideas what type of voltage regulator would work for this situation?


Second, we want to install electric downriggers (or at least plugs for them) in the cockpit somewhere. Here we run into the same situation as above, all the downriggers are 12v. So do I have to install more batteries and charger or can I just add a voltage regulator to reduce the voltage?

As a general disclaimer, I'm very ignorant when it comes to the voltage regulators/transformers, just trying to educate myself a little on the subject and hopefully make wise decisions.

 

[tonytrakovich]

If the windlass is in good condition, I would leave the system as it is and replace batteries. Just buying the wire and the DC-DC voltage converter may be more expensive than replacing batteries. It is not uncommon on many boats to have battery bank near the windlass. Let’s see what others say. For your downrigger electric it you can buy DCDC Converter on Amazon. FYI, transformers are AC electrical devices only.

 

[rustybucket]

If the windlass is in good condition, I would leave the system as it is and replace batteries. Just buying the wire and the DC-DC voltage converter may be more expensive than replacing batteries. It is not uncommon on many boats to have battery bank near the windlass. Let’s see what others say. For your downrigger electric it you can buy DCDC Converter on Amazon. FYI, transformers are AC electrical devices only.

The 32v wiring is already ran to the windlass. Appears that the boat used to have a 32v windlass. The 12v windlass is in like-new condition. The battery bank is two agm's and would cost me $400-$600 to replace just the batteries.

Anybody think something like this would work for the windlass?

https://www.daygreen.com/products/2...erter-voltage-regulator?variant=7091607732257

Specs say it's 100a (windlass should only draw 80ish). I could easily mount the voltage converter in the closet.

If it works I may get the same unit for the cockpit, although it would be quite an overkill for that situation, it would at least leave some room for additions/upgrades.

 

[SKYCHENEY]

What model/brand windlass?

 

[rustybucket]

What model/brand windlass?

Lewmar 12v. Box is on the boat still so I don't know the exact model.

 

[racclarkson@gmail.com]

I think we have the same boat. Were it me, I'd get a couple of Group 31 AGMs. Unless you're a frequent anchorer, they'll last. When they are eventually done you'll typically have plenty of advice notice. Inputing and pulling close to or at full potential of that converter isn't something destined to last. Your 32 volt system is probably putting out a bit more than 35 volts when charging. When it blows, you're done. Guessing at what you have ... have you hauled a 77 lb anchor and 100' of 1/2" chain lately?

Don't know what the down riggers might draw, but you've got a 12 volt generator battery within an easy run to the cockpit. I assume you're running the generator underway.

That make any sense to you?

 

[rustybucket]

I think we have the same boat. Were it me, I'd get a couple of Group 31 AGMs. Unless you're a frequent anchorer, they'll last. When they are eventually done you'll typically have plenty of advice notice. Inputing and pulling close to or at full potential of that converter isn't something destined to last. Your 32 volt system is probably putting out a bit more than 35 volts when charging. When it blows, you're done. Guessing at what you have ... have you hauled a 77 lb anchor and 100' of 1/2" chain lately?

Don't know what the down riggers might draw, but you've got a 12 volt generator battery within an easy run to the cockpit. I assume you're running the generator underway.

That make any sense to you?

Ours is a 1986 52c with 8v92's @ approx 600hp/ea fresh off rebuilds. We have a brand new phasor 21kw gen. The generator battery may be a good option for the cockpit stuff. I wouldn't mind putting in a good agm 31 for the generator and have it run the cockpit too. Thanks for the idea on that, think that will work well.

Currently in place up there in the bow, group 31's agm. While we anchor somewhat frequently, every other weekend or so, 3 or 4 drops per weekend, it's almost always in less than 10' deep water. I have a couple of anchors, still undetermined which is going to be best in the sandy bottoms we anchor in (delta or fluke). All our anchors are 50ish lbs and the chain is 3/8".

I've ordered one of the voltage regulators, the spec sheet actually says max input of 45volts, the page itself says max of 35v. I figure for $100 what do I have to loose. At minimum (if the windlass doesn't burn it up) I can keep it on hand for a spare 12v source. At worse I learn a $100 lesson .

 

[racclarkson@gmail.com]

I'm with you. Let us know how that works out on some long pulls if you would.

 

[rustybucket]

I'm with you. Let us know how that works out on some long pulls if you would.

Will do. If it works at all! haha.

 

[Pete]

I tend to be conservative with my opinions, but on this one the chances of the windlass working are as close to zero as possible, again in my opinion. I would not even recommend standing close to the voltage converter when you activate the windlass.

Why? First a quick review of the spec sheets clearly states that the unit is intended to operate "12 volt appliances". I do not know of any 12 volt appliance that has a motor the size of a 12 volt windlass. Second, in the general case, converters are speced for overall resistive loads, not inductive loads that look a short to the converter when the windlass motor is activated.

My recommendation, get two new Lifeline batteries and make sure the charger is set up for their exact "float" voltage needs. Likely last about 10 years with no attention required.

 

[Cricket]

Why not just set up a separate 12volt house bank to go along with the 12volt generator battery?
Converted our 32v to 24v when we re-powered with 24v CATs, also did a complete rewire as part of the project. Have 24v start banks plus 24v house bank.
New genset was 12v so we have a gen start battery and separate 12v house bank.
The 12v house bank really comes in handy, mostly for electronics, but some other stuff too.
We actually have 12v and 24v cockpit outlets for our electric dredge/kite/deep drop reels.
Not a big fan of voltage converters.

 

[Briankinley2004]

Why not just set up a separate 12volt house bank to go along with the 12volt generator battery?
Converted our 32v to 24v when we re-powered with 24v CATs, also did a complete rewire as part of the project. Have 24v start banks plus 24v house bank.
New genset was 12v so we have a gen start battery and separate 12v house bank.
The 12v house bank really comes in handy, mostly for electronics, but some other stuff too.
We actually have 12v and 24v cockpit outlets for our electric dredge/kite/deep drop reels.
Not a big fan of voltage converters.

This is what I would do also. Check the gauge of the line running to the engine room and if heavy enough you may be able to use it. The amperage will almost triple that of the 32 volt vs 12.

 

[Boatsb]

Why not just set up a separate 12volt house bank to go along with the 12volt generator battery?
Converted our 32v to 24v when we re-powered with 24v CATs, also did a complete rewire as part of the project. Have 24v start banks plus 24v house bank.
New genset was 12v so we have a gen start battery and separate 12v house bank.
The 12v house bank really comes in handy, mostly for electronics, but some other stuff too.
We actually have 12v and 24v cockpit outlets for our electric dredge/kite/deep drop reels.
Not a big fan of voltage converters.

Converters have their place. I have a customer with 24 volt engines BUT the electronics for them is 12 volt. We used an isolated 24 to 12 volt converter so he has 12 volts no matter where in the input window the 24 volt feed is. That saves the electronics from running higher or lower voltages.


As the genny battery is a necessity id add a second battery to run the 12 volt bank and have it isolated.

 

[rustybucket]

Emails finally returned from the mfg, and voltage regulator for this is definitely a no-go. He said they would be happy to manufacture me a unit that would handle the specs but that I'd have to order a quantity.

Oh well, will just return the unit when I get it. Guess I'll be buying new batteries for the windlass and a better battery (or two) for the generator.

Sears was always my go-to for AGM batteries, now that that's out of the picture anyone else have suggestions for picking up decent batteries at a good price? I'm a fan of the AGM group 31's personally.

 

[Glory]

I have a 24V windlass, Maxwell 2200, powered be two Group 31 less acid batteries, charged by a 10 amp Guest charger.
Installed 11 years ago.

The set up recovers a 110 pound anchor and 3/8" chain, 225 ' so we never see the line.

Works great and we anchor a lot. The rest of the boat is 12 volt, formally 32volt.

Get new batteries for the windlass, it's the practical thing to do.