Vinyl Floor Removal

[Liquid Asset]

Does anyone have any tips for removing the vinyl floor? I started to peel it back and it shreds like a piece of paper. I would like to get it up in one piece if possible. Please Advise

 

[Toronto]

I hope you get some answers, I am planing the same project in May. Spring launch time. It might come down to peel it off then scrape and sand.
I hope there is a HOF opinion, it will be our best route.

 

[yachtsmanbill]

Hey Pat... I just pulled up the area that was under the old dishwasher and it shredded too. I ended up peeling away and then got on the backing with a
1-1/2" wood chisel. Thats 1974 linoleum with who knows what kinda bubba glue!
This stuff was also on the floor of an under V berth locker and I just painted it with rustoleum white... leather grain stuff looks like new!
Try a heat gun with the chisel at the lead edge, and pull up, not back so it doesnt break (maybe) ! ws

 

[stormchaser]

Just curious, why remove it, just refloor over it.

 

[yachtsmanbill]

I feel the same way... but under the dishwasher the sole was wet and needed to dry. Pretty soon we embark on a Pergo plank floor for the galley/dinette/V berth area. I need to find the T channel for hatch trim. BRIAN??? OEM on mine was aluminum angle iron with screws all over the place. ws

 

[stormchaser]

Rather than Pergo,check out Allure by TraficMaster. It's just as nice looking but much more moisture resistant.

Comes in a wide variety of colors/patters...that one is the "teak". I went with Cherry, it matches the stock dark reddish wood in our older hatts pretty well.

 

[Bill Root]

I just pulled mine out saturday. It had been floored over once. I was able to get the top layer out in a single piece to use as a pattern, but the original cork-backed floor underneath it shredded. I used a wide flat scraper to pry it up in strips.

 

[Maynard Rupp]

I did one of each. Our original galley flooring was in good shape so I sanded it and glued the Plasteak directly over the original. Four years later it still looks and adheres fine. The head flooring was not as good so I removed it and rolled on 2 coats of West System epoxy before glueing the Plasteak down. The secret to removing the flooring and its glue is 3M adhesive remover. That stuff has mutiple uses. It disolves glue like acetone or MEK but doesn't evaporate as quickly. The fumes are not a health problem according to our companies medical dept. It does smell pretty bad though. If you ever have something that was duct taped and you tried to remove that gluey crap, this 3M product is the only answer. The old flooring glue won't jump off, but with enough soaking and scraping, it will come completly clean. I am not sure of the 3M number for this product, but it comes in a red quart can with a pouring spout. I think it is 5300. I poured my gallon of it from our 55 gallon barrell, so I don't have the exact desciption of the can. You always want to keep a quart can of this stuff in your arsenal of solvents.

 

[surfdancer45]

I removed my vinyl several years ago. The Viny seperated from the paper backing fairly easy. I used a heeat gun to remove paper backing and most of the glue. Finished up with adhesive remover. Rough sanded areas and put down Teak & Holly panels. The burning is a pretty messy job and needs some venilation to keep the fumes down. Good luck with your project. Bob

 

[SKYCHENEY]

I went the heat gun route as well. Just heat and scrape, heat and scrape. I wanted a good plywood base for the new Amtico.

 

[Liquid Asset]

Am I correct that there is Aspestas in this vinyl floor? if so, I do not want to grind/sand. I will give the scrape/peel a try. I can not leave this floor down. The bottom layer is peeling and there is alrady a layer on top of it. I want to start fresh with a good base of glue so that it stays down.

What do you all think of the Plasteak/Lonseal floor? I am thinking of using their dark teak/Holly viny. Looks like a nice product from the sample I have.

 

[MikeP]

Yes, it was asbestoes based floor covering at least through the early 80s.

 

[BobWaz]

I did one of each. Our original galley flooring was in good shape so I sanded it and glued the Plasteak directly over the original. Four years later it still looks and adheres fine. The head flooring was not as good so I removed it and rolled on 2 coats of West System epoxy before glueing the Plasteak down. The secret to removing the flooring and its glue is 3M adhesive remover. That stuff has mutiple uses. It disolves glue like acetone or MEK but doesn't evaporate as quickly. The fumes are not a health problem according to our companies medical dept. It does smell pretty bad though. If you ever have something that was duct taped and you tried to remove that gluey crap, this 3M product is the only answer. The old flooring glue won't jump off, but with enough soaking and scraping, it will come completly clean. I am not sure of the 3M number for this product, but it comes in a red quart can with a pouring spout. I think it is 5300. I poured my gallon of it from our 55 gallon barrell, so I don't have the exact desciption of the can. You always want to keep a quart can of this stuff in your arsenal of solvents.

Thank you to the Forum and those who have gone before. After looking up the subject went to my 87 40' DCMY and tried a hair dryer on removing the linoleum. Worked just O.K. Then I went for my 3M adhesive remover. I keep some on board and have used it for years. Did a terrific job on removal after soaking and using a scraper. Now ready for the new floor.