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Varnish or Teakwood Oil

spartonboat1

Legendary Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2005
Messages
2,494
Hatteras Model
43' DOUBLE CABIN (1970 - 1984)
I am in the process of re-finishing the wooden handrails, on my 1972 43' Double Cabin FB. In later years, Hatteras switched to stainless steel bar/rod based rails, but early Hatts had, what appears to be Mahogany Rails Are they Teak? Do not appear to be.

I have the original owners manual containing the paint and other finish coat material codes, in the Maintenance Section, Fig 14, Pg 2. However, interestingly, the Bill of Material has an area for "EXTERIOR WOOD", including a line labeled Varnish, but that Varnish line is empty. The only line related to a wood finish, is the "Stain" line, listing "Watco Marine Teakwood Oil", in name only, no coded value. Watco Teakwood oils are still sold, and Woodcraft carries them, although not the Watco "Marine" Teakwood Oil.

Furthermore, under Maintenance, "Every 100 Hours", the instructions are:
1) "Inspect condition of varnished areas"
2) "Do not let varnished areas deteriorate"
3) 'To properly maintain, light sand and re-oil with good grade of maring [ marine; remember, was hand typed back then ] teakwood oil, as shown on "Paint and Finish" sheet'.

So, since my handrails appeared to have been varnished, which I have now sanded down to wood, should I assume they should be varnished? Or should I go with Teak Oil? Right now I am about to varnish them.
 
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Use whatever you prefer. I m not a big fan of teak oil, it’s a lot of maintenance and up keep

Over the last 20 years I ve tried a number of products on my 53 incl varnish, cetol, Bristol and epoxy/clear Awlgrip. About 5 years ago I switched to Awlwood from Awlgrip. It’s the best. No need to sand between build up coats (only for the last two), last about a year in SoFl, one part so no mixing and you can recoat after a couple of hours. I m now using it for everything… doors, rails even interior. Also using it for all the mahogany trim and spars on my classic gaffer. Only down side is the price, about $80 a quart. Well that was 6 months ago. Must be $100 a quart now
Btw many classic boat shops up north use it as well
 
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Agree on AwlWood. I have exterior teak done with it that appears not to have aged at all.
 
ill third awlwood. pricey, but worth it.
up north here i dont have the sun wear like florida but i have the snow and ice in the winter.
looks great and very resilient to wear.
 
My rails are on the list to be stripped and finished this season. I have read alot about different varnish s andepoxy etc and still haven't decided what to use. Epiphanes was on the top of the list and captains varnish as well.
 
No matter what you use, it's going to be work. So decide what you like the looks of best, and put the hours in. (Or open the check book.......)
 
If you value your time and the looks of your boat, expensive but durable products like AwlWood come out on top. It's not cheap, but it lasts and lasts.
 
Time is money even if you do it yourself. Faster recoating and less standing is well worth the extra cost
 
Considering Spartonboat is in the Great Lakes, he really doesn't need to use the expensive coatings. Varnish works just fine up here. Just lightly sand every other year and add two more coats.
 

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