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Trim Tab

  • Thread starter Thread starter Photolomy
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Photolomy

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Jun 29, 2018
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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
53' MOTOR YACHT (1969 - 1988)
One of my trim tabs broke (in half). The hinge broke on one side and hydrodynamics did the rest.

IMG_2144.webp

They are fiberglass and shaped to match the boat. I guess I need to make a mold and make a new one?
 
Repair what you have.
Matching and remounting the hinge may be the bigger endeavor.
 
x2 on repair what you have. I just rebuilt this entire system on my boat. seeing that they weren't the most robust structures i decided to lay 1708 cloth inside to add strength. you have plenty of room inside to add material. I think hatteras used monel hinges, so if yours are toast be careful what you pick to replace them. Because i couldn't find monel, I purchased 316SS from mcmaster carr and in one year is already rusting. be sure you align the rod correctly that controls the tab. the rod moves aft as the tab lowers so its best to have the rod as far forward in the little hole it comes out of when in the closed position...This is provided you have the older non-hydraulic screw type. As for aligning the tab, while you are repairing the tab close up the holes in the hull so you don't need to reuse them as it might seriously complicate things. set the repaired tab into the opening and locate it by using shims to lock it into place where it seems appropriate. Place your hinges into their location and use a centering drill to make the pilot hole. make sure the hinges barrels are in the same plane
 
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Yeah, the hinge material is amazing, as are the screws/nuts. A couple were wore, but every one of them unscrewed with no stripping or anything. What actually gave was the wire that holds the hinges together. My diver removed the tab, and then I removed the hardware, which was in excellent condition considering where it lived all this time. But the hinge on the tab was bent, so I will have to find a new one.
 
check with steve at sams, he had them in stack a couple of years ago
 
I had a feeling mine were not working.
Today a diver came out to replace the zinc plates on them.
Luckily they were hanging down slightly enough for him to replace the zincs.
My question is, what is the best way to diagnose this system?
I tried both flybridge and lower station switches while the diver observed no movement with either switch.
Photos to show plates.:confused:F1DD68A1-8733-415E-B596-8858562B55A9.webpAA7FBBA1-3C57-4B2F-AF53-99AD8AA38AC9.webp
 
My ignition keys have to be on, that's where the tabs get their power.

Walt Hoover
 
I made sure they were on.

Still no movement.
 
If you have a buss bar in the bilge for them check the connections there. Wiggle them. They may look good but be corroded internally. On two occasions mine have quit and both times it was due to corrosion at the crimp fitting for the buss bar.
 
If you have a buss bar in the bilge for them check the connections there. Wiggle them. They may look good but be corroded internally. On two occasions mine have quit and both times it was due to corrosion at the crimp fitting for the buss bar.

Yes, there is a buss bar in the bilge.
Will start to hunt down the wires.
Thanks for the tip.
 
I ve been looking at the pictures and still can’t tell what it is. During the repower I had my fiberglass guy fill out the whole recessed area and we installed new 54” Benetts on the transom. Works great.
 

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