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tranny cooler

  • Thread starter Thread starter 86Hat41
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86Hat41

Active member
Joined
Jan 7, 2010
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133
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  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
41' CONVERTBLE-Series II (1986 - 1991)
Hi guys looking for any advice/opinions.

I've got a 41 Hat w/ 671 covington Tib's.

I've got chocolate milk in my tranny, which I assume is seawater since the freshwater side is holding pressure w/my pressure tester, nor is it low on coolant.
I assume this is due to a faulty trans. cooler. So the big question is- where's the best place to get one and about how much?

also

I'm going to have to flush the trans out. My plans would be to let it sit for a day or two to let the water separate and settle on the bottom and then drain the tranny. Then do a drain and fill repeatedly until the fluid seems normal then have an oil analysis done. Anyone have any shortcuts??? or helpful hints etc, or am I going to be changing the fluid in this thing once a week all summer long. Not to mention it's going to cost $40 in 40 weight plus a filter every time I drain and fill. (not to mention my time!)
 
Post a pic, some coolers were unique to Covington and some are off the shelf.
 
no pics. I could take one tomorrow but, I could tell you that it's long and cylindrical and is bolted between the head and intercooler.
 
How long has that creamy goodness been in the trans. It's not going to separate. It's magic. If it's salt water it's already eating your bearings.drain it tonight. For the oil to run clear it will take about 5 changes. It happened to me when I got water in the breather.thank god I never ran it
 
I actually have no idea.
It's a charter boat and it's probably got 250 hours on it since I last pulled the stick to be honest with you. I didn't check it before I put it away for the winter.
I just put the boat in for the season so of course I'm doing the usual checkover and whoa!
I was hoping it would separate. In my experience as an auto mechanic, whenever a car would blow a head gasket, if you let it sit overnight and crack the drain plug in the morning, the anti-freeze would come out first.
Perhaps because this is straight 40w and saltwater is why they won't.

5 times to flush......great.
 
Call Lenco in New York 631-842-4049. I have no affiliation with them I'm just a satisfied customer. They built me 2 new heat exchangers for my 6v92 Ta's last summer also a covington part. My 1989 41c has different heat exchangers than a typical detroit because of ER clearance. I gave them the part # of my exchangers they emailed me a shop drawing the next day. I confirmed the specs and they built, primed and shipped in less than 2 weeks.
 
terrific, thanks for the response.
 
I had a similar problem. I thought it was the oil cooler too but it turned out that water from a leaky sea water pump leaked in through the vent and also the dip stick tube on the transmission. As previously mentioned, the oil and water were emulsified and would not separate. I flushed the transmission a few times with 10/30 oil before putting in the 40 wt. As for your oil cooler, sometimes a good radiator shop can repair it rather than having to replace it.
Will
 
These are probably Twin Disc gears. Start by draining the gears as dry as you can, and do one exchange of motor oil in each. Meanwhile, call Twin Disc and ask them what they recommend. I think they get asked this question several times a year.
 
Actually, run them up to get them warm if you can. Drain them, and then rig a tube to a shop vac to the very bottom and suck away. Let it run like that for a few hours if the vac will stand it, and periodically, roll the gear box to help run the cream off of the internals.
Pull the filters and vac up what you can and the same with the cooler hoses. More is always better. Like what Will said, flush some thin oil through them. Id even mix 10W with diesel fuel 50/50 and run for a few minutes and drain. Water emulsifies with fuel pretty fast. If those gears run at 220 - 250F any residual water will boil off. ws
 
How about as above, but with some 10W and Kerosene? The Kero will absorb water. Just a thought, let me know how it works. :D
 
Well to add to the list of opinions - here's what I'd do:

Drain what's in there. Refill with ATF. Run engine/tranny under some load if possible - maybe tied to dock in gear at a bit above idle - until tranny is nice and warm. Drain ATF. Refill with 40 wt oil. I wouldn't do any more than that.
 
Actually, my Model T manual recommends and engine flush run on straight Kero. Not driving it but a fast idle in the shop for a while. I would even consider doing it with out the filter installed (cartridge type) or with the used spin on. Why sacrifice a new filter? ws
 
"Actually, my Model T manual recommends and engine flush run on straight Kero"

Used to do that every oil change back in college on my '63 Corvair!
 
terrific guys, thanks.
 
I'm not sure about a TD, but the capital manual swaqys to use kerosine or deisel fuel to flush out the grearsw, maybe the same holds true for TD. Sounds like a call to TD would be best before you start anything.
 

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