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Toilets, Sat TV, AC's, and microwave all break at once.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Freestyle
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Freestyle

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Joined
Apr 12, 2005
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548
Status
  1. OWNER - I own a Hatteras Yacht
Hatteras Model
67' COCKPIT MY (1987 - 1995)
While enjoying the day on board spending money on my stabilizers repair, I sat in the AC and watched Wimbeldon on Sat TV. In a sequence of absurd events, the satellite cut out but kept re-finding its signal every few minutes. The AC's would cut out with Lo Pressure every 15 minutes even thought the strainers were clear and the hoses less than a month old. While annoyed with these problems I stopped to use the head which wouldn't flush and then over flowed. And my Jimmy Dean sausage biscuit refused to cook.

Being a micro thinker, my mate and I addressed each of these issues individually. We replaced the solenoid in the toilet system which is 24 volt. I spent an hour on the phone with the KVH people trying to figure out what would make the TV continually cycle the antennae. We cleaned the AC strainers and pulled the hoses to no avail. I ordered take out from the YC bar to solve the microwave problem and took a break.

With vodka as my guide, it occurred to me that the toilets, AC, head, TV and microwave all had one thing in common in that they ran on electricity even though they were on different voltage systems. So I checked the shore power voltage and discovered that I was getting the best 198 volts my marina could offer instead of the 240 volts I had ordered. Once I fired up the generator and shifted to its power all of my problems went away.

Who knew the toilets, TV, AC's and microwave were such interconnected systems?

Only on a boat.

Bruce
Freestyle
1986 62 CPMY (54 with extension)
Tampa
 
Keep an eye on the AC. Low pressure usually means low refrigerant. Are you sure it wasn't "LO AC" on the display?
 
I had a similar situation at AYB last year even though they loaned me a voltage booster. The volts were low but not bad, but the TV lift would not lower until I went to inverter.

Bobk
 
Low pressure errors on AIr cons are never triggered by reduced water flow. high pressure is triggered by low flow

This is why I am a BIG fan of VISIBLE multimeters with AUDIBLE alarms. A little needle behind a door is just useless ...

Blue seas makes them and they are worth the trouble of running a few wires and install where they are visible. You can set voltage and amp alarms so if voltage drops or your ACs start pulling more amps you get an early warning
 
This is why I am a BIG fan of VISIBLE multimeters with AUDIBLE alarms. A little needle behind a door is just useless ...

Blue seas makes them and they are worth the trouble of running a few wires and install where they are visible. You can set voltage and amp alarms so if voltage drops or your ACs start pulling more amps you get an early warning

+1 on the Blue Seas digital meters. IMHO an excellent investment!
 
The issue with the ACs mirrors exactly what happened to me about a month ago at the St Michaels museum marina with 198V shore power... ;) It also resulted in a flat DC system since the batteries weren't being charged when I ASSumed they were so all the inverter stuff was running off the inverter/batts when they should have been running through the inverter pass through with shore power.

I do agree with Pascal/Eric that nice, big VISIBLE meters are a good thing. As P pointed out, our OEM Hatt Voltage/amperage/frequency meters are all accurate (checked with my Fluke meters) BUT they are not visible without opening a cabinet door. Frankly, I'd remove the doors and leave the elec panels visible but the Admiral will not permit that. ;)
 
On the 53 and many classic hatts, the vertical panel on the right side of the lower helm is perfect for that... You are next to a chase down to the batteries for Dc monitoring and the AC panel is just across the helm. Three hours and $800 for full AC and DC monitoring. No brainier

The boat I run has the Dc panel in salon but originally had a solid wood door. It also includes indicator lights for the bilge pumps and shower sumps

Over th first 3 years, I had two instances where the battery charger went off line and I only noticed when the Dc lights started getting dim...I pulled the solid door and replaced wth lexan. Since then (5 years) I got 1 instances of noticing a Dc voltsge issue, 3 stuck float switches on shower sumps, 1 stuck bilge pump switch and 1 case where the watermaker popped a leak dumping sea water in the ER which I noticed because of the visible bilge pump light.

Need I say more?
 

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